Glen-Drake Joinery Saw

[Adam Blanton]

After getting a hands on demonstration from Kevin at the Austin LN Tool event I'm really interested in this saw, along with the offset gauge and how his system works.

I was curious if anyone has hands on experience with the standard joinery saw, if you like it and use it or if you've tried it and didn't like it. The double handed saw looks like another beast all-together.

I'm also curious if there are any limitations with the saw compared to a 'standard' dovetail saw.

Again, mainly interested to hear from the folks that have used the system. Thanks!

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I just wanted to mention that someone was recently selling one

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?178451-Glen-Drake-Wild-West-Joinery-Saw-and-Kerf-Starter

The point of this post is related to the kerf-starter, but there is some talk.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?175525-Glen-Drake-Kerf-Starter-anyone-have-experience-or-opinion

Based on this (post by Eric near or at the bottom) I expect for Eric to chime in.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131001-Saw-Gloat

[Curt Putnam]

I was at the San Diego LN event and met Kevin there. He spent over 1/2 hour watching me embarrass myself sawing the sample oak gently correcting my "style" all the while. I initially was interested because I have trouble finding saws that will fit my hand. The Glen-Drake saw handle comes in two thicknesses and will fit any size hand (you could also turn your own.) I have both LV dovetail saws as well as a crosscut and a rip carcass saw. The horns need to be about 1/4" to 1/2" further apart to be perfect for me. Of the many skills I need to acquire, saw sharpening is near the bottom of the list - so I very much appreciate that one blade can be off for sharpening while keep on working. You can also switch between coarse and fine depending on the task.

I've been using the saw freehand for about a month and also using the LV as I keep sawing up end grain scraps. You can use the saw just as you would any other saw (and I am) and it works just like any other saw. I find it to be just a little slower than the LV but over 3/4" who cares? I've just ordered a Kerf-Starter. Why? Well, sometimes I've simulated a kerf-starter with the corner of a thin scraper. The trench makes it easier (actually possible) to set the non-toothed toe in and then start with a full board width stroke as opposed to the more conventional technique of starting in the front corner and sawing to two lines simultaneously. I find this helpful for pins. We'll see how it does for the rest of the cuts.

Basically the saw is a large gents saw with replaceable blades which makes it reconfigurable. The Kerf-Starter is another way of creating the trench that many critical saw cuts start with.

[Eric Brown]

Andrew suggested I chime in because I use the Glen Drake method. The first thing I will say is that it is like most other good saws in how it cuts. What sets the system apart from regular saws are several key features. The first is that the beginning and end of the blade has no teeth. Using a kerf starter the same width as the saw kerf, you make your cuts following a groove instead of pencil or knife lines. (Much easier than a chisel notch too!) You can then drop the toe of the blade into the groove. The saw has progressive teeth so it starts easy. What the saw teaches you is how to use the full length of the sawblade. The feeler gages allow cutting one side of a dovetail first and then shifting a kerf width over. It makes for accurate cuts. Contact Glen Drake for a CD showing the system in use. He expains it better than I can.

Now I have the double handled version. Seems crazy. but it really helps on the verticle cuts. The grips allow the saw to be in the middle of your body instead of to the side. It also tends to smooth out your strokes while encouraging them to be full length. The only real downside of the double handled version is if you need to cut with only one hand. The offset weight makes it harder. Therefore, I have other saws to use.

At the WW shows, I have played with the single handled version, and it also seems to have good balance. If I had to chose, it would be a toss up. I don't know. Their both good. I would recommend the coarser blade if primarily cutting dovetails.

I also have all the kerf starters. These work well for other saws too but the starting isn't as easy as the G-D. Note that the kerf starter is basically a single tooth saw. It scratches a groove. It might also be used for inlay. It also works for mortices.

My recomendation is that if you are willing to spend the time to learn the G-D system, it will reward you with good results.
If you already know and use a different way, then you probably would not benefit much. On the other hand if you are reading this post, then maybe you are not happy with your current method and then maybe you should consider how the G-D system might benefit you.

Enjoy. Eric

[Adam Blanton]

Thanks for all the info guys! I realize it may not be for everyone, however it's a really well thought out system and his demo really got me interested.

[Bob Lang]

These saws are also easy to get started without the kerf-starter because of the toothless portion at the front of the blade. There isn't the resistance you have in a regular saw, so you can build up some momentum to get going. The kerf-starter is a great idea, and as others have said, it lays down a channel the exact size of the kerf. The Glen-Drake saws (both versions) are nicely balanced and easy to keep vertical, and the "system" as a whole works very well.

Bob Lang

[Derek Cohen]

I have one of the Glen-Drake saws and its matching kerf starter to review (courtesy of Eric). I shall get to it soon (just let me get a bit more of the bench built).

Regards from Perth

Derek