How Can I Fix This Pepper Grinder?

[Eric Jacobson]

I turned this grinder last year and it has warped such that the head doesn't rest on the body evenly (note the gap on right side of photo). The wood is guayacan. I can't tell which warped, the head or the body.

I can't figure out how to fix this. It's the Deluxe Pepper Mill Mechanism from CSUSA, so the head has a tenon/spigot that fits into to body. I'm baffled. Seems like I should be able to get it back on the lathe and fix it, but I'm just drawing a blank. I have a couple cones and Oneway chucks, lots of grabbing options. I'll take any suggestions. Thanks!

220001

[Steve Kubien]

Humble opinion...remove the mechanism and start fresh. I am never very enthused about reworking a completed project. Just my opinion, of course.

[David E Keller]

You can expand into the recess at the bottom to true up the top of the lower half. If the bottom of the upper portion needs to be trued, that'll be a little harder, but a jam chuck should work with the tail center in the small hole that allows the rod to pass through the tenon. That may allow the top and bottom to be flush, but if they've also gone oval then you may have to return the outside as well... I'd use the jam chuck you've already used the upper end at the headstock, and the sixty degree done on the live center to mash the two together for trying up the outside.

If all else fails, Steve's plan is a good one!

[Dale Miner]

To fix the body:

I would chuck up a waste block, and turn it to form a stub that tightly fits the recess in the bottom. Turn the stub about 1/4" longer than the recess is deep. Turn the end of the stub flat and square. Jam/friction chuck the body onto the waste block and use a cone on the live center to hold the top end of the body on center. Recut the top of the body flat and square. You may have to carry the cut to or into the cone on the live center. Alternatively, stop the cut just short of hitting the cone, and whittle the last bit off with a pocket knife. This will leave the top of the body square with the bore in the mill. Since the stub was longer than the depth of the recess, the bottom of the body can also be cut square at this time so the mill sets flat and upright on the table without wobble.

To fix the knob:

Bore the waste block about 1/8" deep to tightly accept the tenon on the bottom of the knob. Jam/friction chuck the knob into the bore and hold it in with the point of the cone on the live center. Recut the bottom face of the knob square. A little undercut here will help, just a little.

To fix the assembly:

Put the body back on the stub, put the top on the body, and jam/friction chuck the assembly onto the stub with the point of the cone on the live center. Return the outside profile of the mill if needed to get the joint between the top and the body to meet. A clean up cut on the entire mill is probably going to be needed, and will make refinishing easier. Once the parts are returned, it is likely that the shaft will be a touch to long. If the length of the shaft is 1/8" or less to long, file the top of the shaft off to get the mill to adjust to a fine grind. If the shaft is more than 1/8" too long, cut the bottom of the shaft off, and re peen the square to prevent if from pulling through the grinding mechanism.

Shouldn't take more that about 15 minutes not counting refinishing the mill.

That is some interesting looking wood. I like the sapwood/heartwood line. It is worth saving.

[Jim Burr]

Take it apart and mate the top and bottom together again. Is it a mechanical thing or a wood thing? If you used an exotic, it may not be dead dog dry yet and could have moved a bit on you. After you take it apart...see how stuff mounts/matches up and move on to change the obvious. Watch out for the "Oops...didn't think of that one" things...they always seem to smack me in the mouth.