Squaring 12 " sliding saw

[Paul Rockwell]

I purchased a 12" Craftsman sliding miter saw and have never been able to get it make a square cut. Upon closer inspection after installing a new blade, it looks like the cast fence is bowed. If I square blade on one side then it is off by a degree or more on the opposite side. With a straight edge set against full length of fence, there is a gap near the center. Has anyone else run into this? Is there a better way to square the blade to the fence besides using a framing square?

[Bill White]

If the fence is bowed, ain't no way unless ya add a "face" to your exsting fence and shim it to "true". Good old Craftsman. They strike again. How long have ya had it? Take it back?
Bill

[david brum]

There should be a way to independently adjust either side of the fence, usually two bolts which allow the fence to be moved a few degrees. After all, they must have attached the fences to the base somehow. If not, Bill's idea of shimming the fences is your best bet.

[Paul Rockwell]

Unfortunately, the fence is on-piece a cast part that spans the whole width of the saw. There is on bolt on the left side and 2 on the right side for fine adjustment.

[david brum]

Other than attaching a sub fence, you could always remove the fence and flatten it. A sanding belt glued to a flat surface should make quick work of an aluminum fence. You'd lose the anodized finish but you'd have a flat surface.

Personally, I think I'd try the sub fence first. Something like 1/2" mdf with yellow sticky paper shims should work pretty well and would be easy.

[Joel Goodman]

+1 on flattening it -- if it's 1/16 or less out. Otherwise a plywood or mdf subfence.

[Buck Williams]

Is there any reason why you can't return it to Craftsman, obviously a defect, you should be able to expect that a tool that's designed to make a square cut, can actually make a square cut.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Is there a better way to square the blade to the fence besides using a framing square?
I use two Swanson Speed squares, one on either side of the blade & do both sides @ the same time.
There's just enough flex/give in those fences to drive you buggy.

[Paul Rockwell]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will have to try and remove the fence and see if I can flatten it or add another sub-fence.

[Tim Howell]

Return it and take a straight edge with you. Most likely have the same problem with the next one.
Remove the fence if possible – adding to it with a sub fence could work with some shims, but you will lose cross cut length. Cut it off if you have too. Buy some aluminum stock from onlinemetals.com (6061T6 ¾”x your height x your length) and have a local machine shop run a fly cutter down the face and bottom maybe the back too. Mount it, check square from both sides of blade as one piece, remove the new fence from mounts leaving the mounts bolted in place, then cut in half and remount. You will then have a straight fence. You could slot the mounts too so you could adjust the fence for zero clearance with different blades. Don’t try to use angle as it is rarely 90 degrees. One degree on the vertical will mess you up on miters. Check your setup for zero heel on the blade. It your blade is heeling L-R, nothing will be square. Check for 90 on the vertical too. Precision setups produce precision work and happy faces. Put some MDF if you go for a zero clearance - better yet forget slotting the aluminium and just slot the MDF like a router table fence. Can you use a dado blade in this sliding saw for drawers?