Bandsaw problems cutting bowl blanks

[Russell Dyess]

I have a twenty year old 14-inch Delta clone bandsaw. I am having trouble cutting bowl blanks with it. I have tried new blades for it but the blade wonders around to much. I have maxed out the tension on the blade and adjusted the blade guides. Nothing seems to help. I have been buying the blades from Lowes. Even at max tension, the blades are not that tight. Would a high quality blade help?? Anyone have an idea?:confused:

[Roger Chandler]

Sounds like you need a new tension spring..............they do weaken in time and a good quality one like the Cobra spring [woodcraft, Rockler] should allow you to tension to the point your blade won't wander so much. Also, proper tracking is really important.........your blade should ride on the crown of the wheels so that it tracks correctly and the guides and bearings should be properly aligned.

[Dale Winburn]

I use the 1/2 inch 3AS Timber Wolf blade from Suffolk Machinery, it's made to saw green wood. It works great.

[Mike Cutler]

Russell

A better quality, and type, of blade than what is available at Lowes would be the 1st order of business. Secondly, if you're tightening your bandsaw to the point that, it can't be tightened any more. Your risking breaking your bandsaw.
The tension spring on your Delta will probably apply ~ 8-12K psi for a given blade. The Cobra coil will bring it up closer to 15Kpsi. A 1/2" bandsaw blade can take greater than 100Kpsi and still not break. The upper yoke on your saw, can't. There should always be space between the coils of the tension spring.
I'm not a turner, in fact I'm kind of a disaster with a lathe, but I know that Suffolk Machinery, makers of Timberwolf Blades, used to have a blade that was for cutting bowl blanks. I'm sure a "real turner" can recommend a better blade.

[Jack Gaskins]

I would order a blade from suffolk machinery and have them make it 1/2" shorter than you are using. This will give you more room to tension the blade without bottoming the spring.

[Jamie Donaldson]

Assuming that the blade is sharp, tracking problems are most likely a result of insufficient spring tension and guide adjustments.

[Jim Burr]

You said "Delta clone" What is the saw and where did it come from? I ask simply because I just bought a Griz 14 and finally have it tuned to the point when I need to improve! You didn't mention what problems you are having with the saw and what type of material you are having a lash at. Before to many folks try to fix whats wrong, it may help to actually know what's wrong.

[Russell Dyess]

Thanks to all who responded. After reading some of the ideas of the great brain trust that is "Saw Mill Creek", I believe that the cause of the problem is the tension spring. To answer Jim's questions, the saw was a "Total Shop" 14" Delta clone that I bought along with my Total Shop (Shopsmith copy). The problem was that I could not tension the blade properly when cutting bowl blanks from logs.

[Reed Gray]

I wouldn't trust a blade from the big box store either. 1/2 inch by 3 tpi Lennox diemaster bimetal blade. Best ones out there.

robo hippy

[Roger Wilson]

Sounds like you need to tune up your bandsaw. Buy the Duginske book and/or his DVD on bandsaws.

The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw: Everything You Need to Know about the Most Important Saw in the Shop [Paperback]
Mark Duginske (Author)

219866

Highland makes a blade designed for turning blanks. It works nicely:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx

219865

[allen thunem]

check out this link this guy is a guru about bandsaws
Iturra Catalog FH Worksheet (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=iturra%20design%20website&source=web&cd=6&ved=0CIEBEBYwBQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.businessmarketinginstitute.co m%2Ftmn%2Fiturra.pdf&ei=b_0ST-SLEqmaiQL9pZHTDQ&usg=AFQjCNGz-FkVuRhuTCinzKddU4EXkLeEnQ)

[Josh Bowman]

Russell,
How hard are you pushing the blank? If you push the wood into the blade as compared to allowing the blade to cut, the blade will also wonder. The tension should allow about 3/8" either way on the blade as it's pushed between the wheels from the back (opposite side from the blade guide). Also the guide should be set where you push one block so it just touches and the second block to a dollar bills thickness. If the above is ok, then either the blade is dull, the set has been removed from one side of the blade by having the blade set to far back in the guides or you're pushing too hard.

[Michael Menzli]

I have to agree..save the $$ over the long haul and get a better blade.. I used the lowes in a pinch and it was a goner after 3 or 4 pieces...Ive enjoyed my 1/2" x 3 tpi timberwolf. I have replaced my coil with a cobra coil and havnt looked back.

heres what i use... standard 14" saw should be 93 1/2 http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2083061/PS-Wood-Band-Saw-Blade-AS-Series.aspx

[Rich Aldrich]

I got a new spring from Louis Iturra, of Itura Designs. He doesnt have a website, but his phone number is 888-722-7078, I think. He also sent me his book for setting up bandsaws. It was a great help for my Shopfox bandsaw.