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View Full Version : Secret weapon #2 ... well, almost a secret - high speed sanding.



Dan Forman
01-14-2012, 4:54 PM
My new secret weapon: 219790 a Metabo variable speed, 4 1/2" angle grinder.

Occasionally we encounter the solution to a difficult problem through serendipity. This happened to me recently, perusing John Jordan's website looking at hollowing tools, I noticed an article by Bill Neddow posted there, about high speed sanding. Now I have found the sanding of bowls to be a very vexing proposition on two accounts. First, I often discover scratches left from earlier grits, but not until down to the finest grits, then have to go back many steps to try to get them out. Often despite my best efforts, visible scratches remain on the finished piece. Secondly, elm and locust are very common here, and are subject to what Bill calls "starved horse effect" - ripples caused by alternating layers of hard and soft wood. With these woods it's very difficult not to end up with a rippled, if otherwise smooth surface.

Now, the technique and equipment fly in the face of "conventional wisdom" regarding sanding, which is that slower is better. We are talking here about speeds of 6,000 to 8,000 rpms for the sander, and lathe speeds of 250 for large bowls to 800 for smaller bowls, for the grits from 80 to 320, then slower for 400 and 600. Bill has reduce sanding time from 2 hours down to 20 minutes on large pieces. Smaller pieces also are take less time than with conventional methods, but the time differences aren't as dramatic, as the law of diminishing returns comes into play with less surface area. Here is a link to the article, which originally appeared in Woodturning Designs, spring 2010. Published Articles (http://www.billneddow.com/articles2.html) It's the first article "High Speed Sanding", though the second one on sandpaper advances fits in as well.

I decided to give this method a shot, and was very pleased with the results on a 7" black locust bowl. I could only find the firm Roloc sanding discs in 80 and 120 locally, so I used a Skilton pad and combination of Astradot and Vince's blue discs for the rest of the sanding. Consequently, I still got a little of the horse's ribs, but on close examination, there is nary a scratch to be found, inside or out. I found the firm Roloc discs to be unworkable for the inside of the relatively small steep bowl, actually put some nasty scratches in there that had to be removed with the Skilton pad topped with Vince's small radiused intermediate pad. All that extra sanding may have been the cause of the minimal starved horse effect that was present, hard to tell without further trials. I should add that this particular bowl had significant tearout both inside and out, that resisted all of my usually effective tools and techniques.

I was so tickled by the results that I ordered a full set of 2 and 3 inch Powerloc discs from Packard, as nothing in the higher grits is available locally, and I think Roloc must have discontinued them altogether, as I could find none for that system on the web either. I'll leave the rest of the description up to Bill, so read the article and be prepared to approach this with what in Zen is known as "beginners mind", laying aside for a moment all that you have heard in the past that is contrary to the ideas expressed. I'll post a pic of the bowl when I get a chance, maybe late tonight.

Bill and i have been playing phone tag, I hope to get hold of him soon and clear up a few questions, and will post updates to this thread.

Dan

Eric Gourieux
01-14-2012, 5:57 PM
Power sanding is a "must" in my book when it comes to just about anything larger than a pen. I've been power sanding for years and recently switched to an angle drill (from my drill, which was difficult to manage). I also switched from the wave discs to Vince's system, and I like his system better. The sanding discs are a better quality and last longer. I'm not familiar with Roloc, so I can't comment. The hook-and-loop system has worked fine for me.

I tend to agree with the theory that slower is better when power sanding. However, I'll admit that I still find myself sanding at higher speeds than Vince suggests.

Steve Kubien
01-14-2012, 9:08 PM
Bullocks to conventional wisdom. I have briefly played with Mr Neddow's high-speed sanding, using a Norton 3X flap disc from the Borg. In this format, it is hard to control but there is NO doubt about the speed of the process. Count me as a convert. This week I will be hunting down the parts to convert my angle grinder to a dedicated sander.

The results are insanely good!

Steve Kubien
01-14-2012, 9:11 PM
Eric, please note the critical point that with Bill Neddow's technique, a conventional drill is not fast enough. You need the 5000+ rpm's of an angle grinder.

Harry Robinette
01-14-2012, 9:14 PM
Dan
I seen Bill in Cincinnati twice and he is really something to see in a demo. He did a 10 or 12 year study on sand paper to see which cut best and which lasted the longest. He didn't make it this year he normally comes to Cincinnati Symposium. I've been doing his high speed hand sanding for a couple years and it really cuts down on sanding time and does a really good job too. If you go to his web site he has allot of his information on there.
Just go to www.billneddow.com and you can get his web site from there.

Dan Forman
01-15-2012, 3:35 AM
Steve and Harry, looks like we belong to a pretty small club. :D The link I posted is to Bill's site. It's worth noting that Bill was the one who wrote the article that brought CBN grinder wheels to the attention of the wider world of turning, though I think I first read about them through Reed a long time before that.

Dan

Reed Gray
01-15-2012, 12:43 PM
I am not sold on the high speed sanding. I do not have a high speed drill to try it out with, but my high speed drill does go to 3200 rpm. For my warped bowls, it would be difficult to get the feather light touch you need for this type of sanding because of constantly having to move with the warp. I did try some with my drill, and for more open forms, it did work well enough. On more closed forms, and sharper transition areas, it did not work as well.

I haven't noticed the horse rib effect on sanding any of my bowls. I do know it can be very pronounced with softer woods like cedar, fir, and redwood. I would think having a firm pad would spread the cutting/sanding surface over a wider area, so it evens it out. I do use the 3 inch pad almost all the time.

I don't know how much time I spend sanding per bowl. It does seem to take at least as long, or a bit longer than the time I spend turning.

I was using CBN wheels 6 or more years ago, I can't really remember when. I was using a matrix type, which was 3/16 inch of grinding matrix bonded to an aluminum wheel, 1 inch wide. They cost $300 each. My 80 grit wheel still has half the matrix left on it. They are made to order. I had a couple of 320 grit wheels, and they wore out within about 1 1/2 years. I went to a 150 grit wheel, and it is still almost new after 2 years. Because the matrix wears away, and when you add the 1 to 2 thousandths of an inch run out in shaft, hole, wheel, they get some run out after a while, and I would take them back about once a year to resurface them. Convenient since the placed that made them is here in town. I do like the D Way tools wheels better, if for no other reason than the extra width.

robo hippy

Bill Neddow
01-15-2012, 3:27 PM
Reed, the high speed sanding protocol was never meant for warped bowls. It is imperative that you keep a constant pressure (light) on the sanding pad -- and thus on the bowl, when you are sanding. As you (and I) have found, it can't be done on a warped bowl at high speed.

However, it does work beautifully and efficiently on round bowls.

There is great reluctance to try it because of the belief that it will ruin your sandpaper. The solution is to use the better sandpapers.

People have only started using power sanders on wood in relatively recent years. Traditionally it was all done by hand -- even bowls. The sandpapers manufactured for wood workers did not have to withstand the stress of high speed, so that quality was not built into the papers. All manufacturers are slow to adapt to new conditions. The "new" technique may be a fad -- there are dozens of valid reasons. And, it is very costly to change the manufacturing process.

Thus, the manufacturers and their sales representatives claim that slow speed sanding is better and more efficient. This is now the "conventional wisdom". In fact it has now become so entrenched that it is almost beyond questioning. This probably accounts for so few people taking part in this thread, either for or against the concept.

But, we only progress by thinking "outside the box".

The bulk of the sandpapers that work well with high speed sanding are not made for woodworking, but for metal working. The Roloc or Powerloc systems were designed for metal grinding and thus they had to be able to stand up to high speed sanding of very tough material. They last, and do a great job. Both of these systems require a solid but flexible rubber backing pad and the disks are locked onto the pad with a screw center or bayonets. I use these down to 240 grit. At that point, I switch over to a velcro backed pad, which is softer, for final finishing.

Velcro-backed sandpapers that stand up to this protocol include any of the new ceramic sandpapers. Personally, I use Norton Dry Ice , but there are several others on the market that also work well.

Dan, pleas try contacting me again so I can answer any questions. You have my telephone number and I have tried contacting you with no more success than you have had in reaching me. I am in almost every evening -- except this Monday when I am at our woodturning club meeting.

Bill

Faust M. Ruggiero
01-15-2012, 4:29 PM
Dan,
Thanks for posting this. Bill, Thanks for writing the article. I'm always open to new ideas that make the sanding job go faster while maintaining or improving the quality of the work.
faust

Reed Gray
01-15-2012, 5:00 PM
Yea Bill, I did figure that one out. The idea seems to revolve around how much pressure is applied to the disc as it rotates. I keep thinking about an arm rest of some sort that can keep constant pressure, even on warped bowls so you can move the sander with the wood. Might be possible with very slow lathe speeds, but difficult. Have to figure out the arm rest thing, or an articulated arm to hold the drill so I can sit and sand, and not have to hold the drill out at arms length.

robo hippy

Fred Belknap
01-15-2012, 5:02 PM
Dan & Bill Good information. I downloaded the PDF to my computer so I can reference it when needed. I have a couple angle grinders and am planning on giving this a shot.. I spend way to much time sanding and am still not satisfied with the results. Thanks

Bill Neddow
01-15-2012, 6:24 PM
Reed, I love the articulated arm idea. I am open to anything that makes sanding easier and more efficient.

Ed Morgano
01-15-2012, 8:31 PM
One of the things that I've discovered lately is the use of cabinet scrapes on bowls. I had a few NE bowls that I was working on that I had tool marks on around the outside. Because of the intermittent cut, I couldn't get them sanded out. I tried the angle grinder thingy and it worked to a point, but I still had sanding marks after about an hour of playing around with the grinder. Then, I tried my "french curved" cabinet scrape, both under power and manually. Within a few minutes, the tool marks were gone. The straight sided scrape worked great on the outside of the bowls too. I've been using the cabinet scrapes alot since then.

Jon Lanier
01-15-2012, 8:49 PM
One of the first things I learned in 7th grade wood shop: Sandpaper in a cutting tool!

Dan Forman
01-16-2012, 3:34 AM
219939219940Here are some pics of my locust bowl taken with a macro lens, along with some closeups. It's about 7 x 2.75".

The first of the close ups below represents about one square inch (thumbnail is about twice life size) the last about 1/2 sq inch of surface. if you look real hard at the first , you will find a few scratches in the enlargement, probably from the 600 grit.

219941219942219943

I had a very nice chat with Bill today, and got my questions answered. I am awaiting some new sanding materials, will do a followup when they arrive. I don't think anyone who wants to give this method a try will be disappointed.

Dan

neil mackay
01-16-2012, 3:59 AM
Well I also power sand and use a enertia sander [random orbital sander] Have done so for years and rarely sand by had anything, except the carved bowls.