Machine Paint--what's everyone using?

[Matt Meiser]

I need to paint a machine which I've never done in winter. Even in summer the oil-based paints I've used dry slooooooooowwww. I'd like to use some fast drying. I looked at the auto parts store and they have a Duplicolor lacquer system that might work. Reviews on car sites vary. what does everyone else use?

I'll probably just use rattle cans for the accent color (base, table edge, hand wheels) but the body of the saw is too good to get good results with that method.

[Joe Jensen]

Matt, I've used auto paint on a few machines, I even used catalyzed auto paint on the last one. I don't think the auto paint is durable compared to the old oil based enamel. It's probably the thickness, and if the auto paint ended up thick enough it was be even better, but I used a qt on a 5HP Quincy compressor and it was like $60 for the paint. It didn't end up very thick.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I scrounge the "bone piles" of Lowes, Home Depot and the local paint stores for oil based enamels.
They usually have a lot of ugly pink or purple stuff marked way, way, way down - like $.50 a quart!

They all go into a larger can. A little squirt of the right colorant and some white and out comes a nice "utility gray".
Some "special glossing agent" is added if the sheen is too low. (aka gloss varnish, in my case, Boat-Kote spar since I have a lifetime supply of it).

[Carroll Courtney]

Matt,I have use the Duplicolor paint on this saw.The primer,metallic gray,gloss black,then the clear coat which all four is lacquer paint.The primer is very thin(to thin)so just about awhole qt for it and the base coat when using a metallic paint is the chance of zebra stripping vs non metallic color,which only at close inspection one will notice the zebra strips.The clear coat,a person can use alittle are alot.In all, I really like the paint as long as I figure in 3qts of paint for this one machine and don't expect it to do more cause just not enought left over to do another machine.The inside cabinet and underneath of the table I did w/oil base paint.I can't say if this paint is toughter than oil base paint but it does dry faster,easier to spray,and it looks dang good if I have to say so myself.Give it a try----Carroll

[Dan Barber1]

Carroll:

Where did you get the cover for the motor hole in the side of the saw? I'm in the process of trying to get my saw (looks just like yours) hooked up to my dust collector and need to cover the hole.

Dan Barber

[Neil Brooks]

Even in summer the oil-based aunts I've used

Slightly OT, but ...

I had one of those, too. She loved to pinch my cheeks, and always gave me a big sloppy kiss. Bit more of a mustache on her than I care to remember.... :eek:

[Matt Meiser]

Darn auto-correct!

[Phil Thien]

Slight OT: Is there a way to speed the cure of the paint from oil-based rattle cans?

[Jerome Stanek]

go to an auto or regular paint store and see what they have in mistake colors. My painter picked up about 25 gallons for $10.00

[Don Jarvie]

I suggest finding a Sherwin Williams auto paint store in your area. They are separate from the home paint store. They can make any color you want. You mix 2 parts paint with 1 part reducer and it dries within minutes. Hit it with at least 4 to 5 coats and its doable because once you finish the last side the 1st one is dry.

After painting they sell a clear coat hardner that also dries quickly. What ever it is its very durable. I painted my Bies fence with the rattle can and then hit it with the hardner and it hasn't chipped yet and it gets pretty good use. I don't have any final pictures but my PM 66 looks great and the paint job came out really nice.

[Tom Rausenberg]

I used Rustoleum Hammered paint on my last machine restoration, and I really like the results. Very shiny with a hammered look. It dries to the touch pretty quickly, but takes about a week or so to really harden up. Not sure if you could spray it. I just used a brush.

[Carl Beckett]

I worked a summer at a natural gas compressor station, and a couple years in a machine shop. Both places used two part epoxy machine paint. Once its on, its pretty indestructible.

Battle ship grey - although the compressor station did have a white version as well.

I would be inclined to try that two part epoxy sold for concrete floors.....

[Jim Becker]

I suggest finding a Sherwin Williams auto paint store in your area. They are separate from the home paint store. They can make any

The challenge is spraying the stuff safely in a home-shop environment. I know that Matt recently put in a spray booth, but I don't recall if he equipped it for solvent based products or just waterbornes.

[Bruce Wrenn]

WalMart's in house brand is limited in colors, but is fast drying. Ace also has fast drying paints, in addition to Krylon brand paint.

[ian maybury]

The other issue with epoxy is that it doesn't cure properly at low temperatures.

A high quality paint and hence not cheap (but maybe the 'wrong colour' strategy would work for it) that should be excellent on a machine is Du Pont Imron enamel. These finishes are tougher and more chip resistant, and build a thicker film than typical automotive finishes. They are made for use on trucks and the like. Most of the mainstream makers of automotive and industrial finishes will have similar paints in their lines.

I'm not sure how they go in cool conditions, but it'd probably be advisable to get the machine warmed up using a fan heater or something as there's not many (if any) paints that grip well or dry properly if the surface is cold enough that there is a risk of condensation. The temperature normally matters too, especially on two pack paints but also on air drying types.

One advantage of the likes of the above is that there is normally very good technical data available covering these issues.

ian

[Matt Meiser]

I ended up going with the old standby oil-based enamel. I used the hardener that Tractor Supply sells for their line of tractor paint which made the white I sprayed last night cure to where it feels quite hard this morning even in my 62 degree shop. I used the "Professional" Rust-O-Leum paint so I was able to use spray cans for some small stuff and mix paint for the larger stuff and have it match. I've used that product before with good results but was worried about cure time in the colder weather--seems like that's a non-issue.

[Matt Meiser]

I have the same one--once installed no one will ever know. And I suspect its a bit easier to install to due to weight!

[Jerome Hanby]

Just chiming in, but I bought a fiberglass reproduction from a guy over on OWWM. Had to search through the forums to find him. Haven't painted and installed mine yet, but just from handling and inspecting it, he did a top notch job. Seems like the cost was about $130...


Carroll:

Where did you get the cover for the motor hole in the side of the saw? I'm in the process of trying to get my saw (looks just like yours) hooked up to my dust collector and need to cover the hole.

Dan Barber

[Bill Geibe]

I used Rustoleum Smoke Gray on my Unisaw when I restored it. It was a close match, has a nice sheen and seems to be durable, put you have to be careful to follow the directions on the re-coat times. Otherwise it will crinkle up if you lay another coat on before a couple days have gone by.

Bill

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[Rich Engelhardt]

I've used that product before with good results but was worried about cure time in the colder weather--seems like that's a non-issue.Make sure to keep the heat on in the shop over the next few to five days.
Even though the enamel is dry, it's still in a cure state. If you turn the heat down, then up again, it may cause slight mositure condensation. That will show up as flat spots in the finish.

[Joe Isley]

I use Rustoleum paint and a hardener when I spray. This combination will dry in a day and will be very hard. I use about a half of an ounce to a siphon paint gun cup of paint. I pour the hardener in the cup after the paint and stir.
I also take different colors of Rustoleum paint and mix to get the correct machine color that I need.