Unifence Question

[Matt Meiser]

My Biesemeyer fence is a 30" fence but by drilling and tapping a couple holes I was able to slide the tube over about and get about 36" to the right of the blade. Can you do the same with a 30" Unifence?

[Chris Rosenberger]

You sure can Matt. A few years back I redrilled one to have 52" to the left of the blade.
The newer Unifence rails had T slots. On those, all you need to do is loosen the bolts & slide the rail.

[Matt Meiser]

See why I asked? :D

The one I'm probably buying is very new. I helped the seller take it out of the box when we put it on his saw.

[Jim Andrew]

Did the guy you're getting it from buy a biesemeyer? Think if I were going to buy a fence to put on the saw you got at a bargain, I'd reconsider and just put the biesemeyer on the saw you are keeping, and the jetlock fence on the one you are selling.

[Matt Meiser]

No, the guy I'm buying it from put it on a Grizzly G1023 and put the stock fence back on before he sold the saw.

[David Kumm]

I think the only potential concern is the Unifence needs a little deeper table lips to attach the rail to than a Biesemeyer does. they are great fences though. Much more like those found on Euro sliders. Dave

[Chris Rosenberger]

I think the only potential concern is the Unifence needs a little deeper table lips to attach the rail to than a Biesemeyer does. they are great fences though. Much more like those found on Euro sliders. Dave

The Unifence was designed to be mounted on the Unisaws.

[Matt Meiser]

Yeah--I didn't say but this is going to be on a Unisaw.

[Larry Edgerton]

Every once in a while on here someone is bashing Unifences, but I have a unifence on my site saw and I love it. It is just so versatile.

I have two Biesmeyers on the shop saws and I have contemplated putting a unifence on one saw.

You will love it. Glad you got a nice saw/fence for a nice price.

Larry

[Matt Meiser]

I've always had a Biesemeyer but I can definitely see an advantage to the Unifence. For one I like the features for stopped cuts and the low profile mode which looks like it will be great for thin rips. I run into problems occasionally now where I can't get the fence close enough with my Sharkguard in place. The low profile mode will solve that. Plus I'm getting it at a great price and it means I won't have to monkey around with fences on both saws before I sell the old one.

[Jim Becker]

Matt, I'm a UniFence fan...'had one on my original contractors' style saw and the fence on my MM slider is very, very similar. What you propose shouldn't be an issue. Just remember to do what you need to do to have the scale set up properly for wherever things are located.

There are also some very useful third-party products that help overcome some issues and enhance other things in the UniFence environment. It's tricky to attach a jug directly to the OEM fence, but not to an aftermarket one that matches the size (so the scale isn't off) but provides flat surfaces with tee-slots for convenience. You can have a whole bunch of useful setups that way while enjoying the flexible utility that the UniFence offers.

[Jim Barrett]

I thought Delta stopped producing the UniFence? I have a Biesmeyer on my General...previous saw I had an Excalibur fence...like the Excalibur better...would like to take a look at a UniFence it they are still around.

Jim

[Matt Meiser]

I'm buying a lightly used one.

[Paul Stoops]

I put a 30" Unifence on my Ridgid Model R4511. I have 30" rip width to the right of the blade and about 9" to the left. I would think you could shift it as much as 9" to the right if you were willing to give up the left hand cutting capability. As someone mentioned, because you are going to be mounting it to a Unisaw, the tee slot construction of the Unifence rail should allow you to just shift it to the right. And of course the scale would have to be extended/repositioned.

[Alan Schaffter]

Yup T-slot on new fence rail. Biggest issues in my mind with Unifence is ease of attaching jigs- not hard, but sometimes requires a little ingenuity, and switching from left to right side of blade- not hard, just takes some time (30 secs?). I picked up a spare casting so all I need to do is slide the fence from one casting to the other. Someday I hope to find an inexpensive spare fence so I have two complete assemblies.

[keith micinski]

Yup T-slot on new fence rail. Biggest issues in my mind with Unifence is ease of attaching jigs- not hard, but sometimes requires a little ingenuity, and switching from left to right side of blade- not hard, just takes some time (30 secs?). I picked up a spare casting so all I need to do is slide the fence from one casting to the other. Someday I hope to find an inexpensive spare fence so I have two complete assemblies.

I Love my unifence and wouldn't have anything else. One thing I did do was add a peach tree uni-t fence for this exact reason.

[Paul Stoops]

The auxiliary after market fence makes jig attachment somewhat easier. However, since the Unifence is attached to the front rail only, sometimes it is necessary to clamp the rear end down.219642

[doug williams]

Question for Jim Becker, I've seen these after market fences at the wood show before but don't remember the company, do you have a reference. Thanks

[David Kumm]

Go to www.ttrackusa.com (http://www.ttrackusa.com) Auxiliary fence. Dave

[Matt Meiser]

http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm

A friend has one and really likes it. There's really only 2 things I clamp to my fence anymore--a short fence for doing repeated cuts with the miter gauge which the unifence can do for you, and a sacrificial fence will I'll just make taller.

[Jim Becker]

The auxiliary after market fence makes jig attachment somewhat easier. However, since the Unifence is attached to the front rail only, sometimes it is necessary to clamp the rear end down.

All of the Biessemeyer type fences also only attach to the front rail and that can also require some added support at the back for certain type of jigging to avoid deflection.

[Wayne Ashing]

I have a fence I bought / traded from a guy 10yrs ago on this forum, looks like a cross between a Uni and a Biesemeyer.
The fence is a "T" style with the square tube in the center and poly sides, but mounts to a steel rail similiar in design to
the aluminum Uni with the same locking mechanism. If I recall correctly it was manufactured by an aircraft company in
Colorado. Never installed it , sold the saw it was to go on, been dragging it around through 2 moves? Oh and for some
reason it was painted Mustard Yellow!

Didn't want hijack this thread but maybe the answer to the "Great Uni-Bies coundrum" Maybe someday I'll luck onto a
$250 "Unisawer" that needs a fence? Hope always springs eternal.

[Alan Schaffter]

http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm

A friend has one and really likes it. There's really only 2 things I clamp to my fence anymore--a short fence for doing repeated cuts with the miter gauge which the unifence can do for you, and a sacrificial fence will I'll just make taller.

Like Delta advertises and like Norm, I would slide my Unifence back to use it as a cutoff fence. I found that was a bit awkward- I was always running into the two or so feet of fence sticking out on the operators side! My solution was a short little spacer fence that I clamp to the Unifence. I carefully milled its thickness (to 3/4" ?) so I can use the horizontal fence position cursor- quite convenient.