I can't pass the nickel pass on my g1023z and hear a gentle roar when the motor slows

[Bruno Frontera dela Cruz]

My G1023z is only 2 years old and lightly used as I simpy don't have time to use it every weekend as I would like. I have been noticing slight vibration in the saw regardless of blade type (or a blade at all) and am getting to the point where I need to take action. I can't pass the nickel test and in fact, anything that I sit on the extension table ends up on the floor when the saw is running.

The belts are new gates belts that had no change in vibration over the old ones, even right out of the box. I have also noticed that when I stop the saw and the motor break engages there is what I would describe a gentle groan that the saw makes when it slows down...is this a sign of something specific?

Does this sound like a common issue to anyone with an easy fix or do I really need to start taking things apart?

Thx

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Bruno
My Unisaw will not alway pass the nickel test in the winter, when it has been sitting for a couple of days. But after it has been running for a few minutes the belt vibration goes away. You might check belt alinement and that all pulleys set screws are secure. I do not think there is a motor brake on your saw. Can you remove your saw's belts and check saw motor out for vibration. That will cut your troubleshooting in half. Tom

[Joseph Tarantino]

+1 on the previous comments, although the seasonal comment has me a bit perplexed. a lot of vibration can be caused by the arbor and motor pulleys not being coplanar. at least that's what happened on my ridgid 2412. and not to make you feel bad, but my emerson built 10" CI c-man (circa '70) with a link belt and machined pulleys passed a dime test this weekend.

[glenn bradley]

Agree that pulley out of plane can set up some good oscillation that will keep you searching for the cause. If the set screws on a pulley came loose enough for a pulley to shift a bit, the ongoing and increasing vibration could move it further and further until things get pretty exciting. Different people are willing to go to different levels but, if my saw was at the point yours is I would figure on a re-alignment effort anyway so I would:
- pull the wings and table top (the washers under the table mounting bolts are actually shims, mark them and their location and you will save yourself a lot of work) to make things easy on me as long as I am going to go through a re-alignment anyway, why work upside down?
- confirm that the pulleys are co-planer and well secured. Some set screws have a second set screw on top of them to lock them in position; check for this.
- put your belt on and tension them.
- reconfirm that the pulleys are on the same plane.
- fire up the saw and check for improvement. If the problem persists, you've already got the table off so checking arbor bearings etc. will be easier.

I'll stop there as I believe you will have found your problem by this point (pulleys) and you can re-assemble and re-align your saw. If I'm wrong, please let us know what you find.

[Dave Lehnert]

I had a JET saw what sounds like the same problem. The set screw was loose on the arbor pulley.

[Rick Fisher]

Single phase motors make a bizarro sound when shutting down.. I believe its the Run Capacitor dumping its electrical charge back into the circuit.. Its not really audible on a motor that is inside a cabinet but on my bandsaw for instance, its pretty loud..

[Steve Griffin]

Another thing to check is your bearings.

In fact, I just replaced mine yesterday on a 2008 1023. I was getting poor cut quality, vibration and a slight groany metalic sound.

To check them, take off the blade and yank on the arbor looking for play. Also take off the belts and see how freely it rotates. Mine was pretty stiff to rotate.

Sure enough, one of my bearings was froze up! The arbor showed a slight amount of wear too, so I went ahead and replaced that too.

Good luck, Steve

[scott spencer]

How does it cut? Nickels are a variable, and the "nickel test" isn't overly scientific or something I put much emphasis on, but if your saw is vibrating badly, it'd be good to find the cause.

[Bruno Frontera dela Cruz]

It seems to cut fine, I am just surprised that push sticks and off cuts will walk off the table when the saw is in use.


How does it cut? Nickels are a variable, and the "nickel test" isn't overly scientific or something I put much emphasis on, but if your saw is vibrating badly, it'd be good to find the cause.

[david brum]

#3 on checking the pullies. I had the pully set screws come loose on my cabinet saw when it was fairly new. The saw vibrated like crazy and the belts self destructed. I've also had the pulley come loose several times on my jointer, with the same symptoms. A drop of blue Loctite is a good preventative.

[Bruno Frontera dela Cruz]

Thanks, I will start with the pulleys and go from there.

[Shiraz Balolia]

The pulleys usually have double set screws, so remove the top one completely before tightening.

[Bruno Frontera dela Cruz]

So here is what I found...
I am not sure about runout but I can move the arbor in and out horizontally, which I am not sure is good.
the other noteworthy thing is that the arbor / pulley is way out of balance, as small of a diameter that it is I am very surprised how easily and quickly it finds the same stopping point.

Good news is that the motor is as smooth as silk.

Do you guys recommend replacement parts from grizzly or could I get better parts from motion industries, etc?

[Jerome Hanby]

Not sure if they do other brands. But the Sawcenter rebuilds Unisaw arbors for a decent price...

[Steve Griffin]

Deal with Grizzly for sure!

Talk to tech service--they will suggest what to check, how to do the repair and set you up with parts.

I replaced my bearings and arbor and it was maybe $30 for parts.

Maybe you just need to tighten something though.

[Cliff Furman]

I would first, remove the belts, and see if the pulley set screws are tight. Also spin the arbor and see how it feels/sounds. Also, give the arbor a few good shoves and see if it moves at all.
Spin the motor shaft and see how it feels/sounds.
Run the motor and see if vibration is still there. If so, the motor needs work.

[Bruno Frontera dela Cruz]

I have a new arbor shaft, bearings and pulley on the way. The pulley was likely out of balance and caused the bearing to fail prematurely.

too bad these things manifest themselves after the warranty is up!

[James Baker SD]

I hate to be dumb, but what is the nickel test? Balance a nickel on its edge and vibration will tip it over? Or lay it flat on the table and vibration shakes it down to the floor? Something else?

[glenn bradley]

I hate to be dumb, but what is the nickel test? Balance a nickel on its edge and vibration will tip it over? Or lay it flat on the table and vibration shakes it down to the floor? Something else?

One of those things that used to be impressive and had morphed through urban legend and years of re-tellings to indicate some level of quality :). A running machine that will allow a nickle to stand on it's edge on the machines surface is considered smooth running. Some folks stretch the "official" conditions of this test to include start-up and wind-down with the nickle still standing. Of course, those folks walked uphill both ways to school, in the snow, carrying their plowhorse . . . and you try to tell that to kids today and they just won't believe you :D. Seriously, the nickle being able to stand on edge is what folks are talking about.

[Myk Rian]

So here is what I found...
I am not sure about runout but I can move the arbor in and out horizontally, which I am not sure is good.
Of course that is'nt good. If your blade is moving back and forth, you won't get a straight cut.