Glaser Screw Chuck re-visited

[Harvey Ghesser]

I had reviewed this tool about six months ago when I first bought it but it has now become my go to chuck for roughing blanks. Now that I'v had a chance to really work with it, I thought another look would be appropriate. The main point I'd like Creekers to know is how simple, convenient and safe this devise is.

I start by locating the center of my blank. In this case, I'll be turning a very wet, thirteen inch, Big Leaf Maple Burl that's four and a half inches thick. Pretty heavy stuff.Then with a 1/4 inch drill, I drill a hole 3/4 of an inch deep. This is really an unbelievably simple way to chuck a hunk of wood on a lathe!

The chuck is hand tightened until the last couple of turns when the provided tommy bars finish the job. A really elegant solution. In this case, I used the 4 1/2 inch backing plate. The only requirement for the chuck to work correctly is that the surface for the chuck screw placement must be flat.

To be continued with a few more pics...

[Harvey Ghesser]

A few more photos of the screw chuck in action
219155219156219158219159

Removing the chuck from the roughout is simple as well. The tommy bars make it easy. The screw itself is very sharp and really digs into the wood insuring a tenacious grip.

Recently, the Glaser Screw Chuck was evaluated by Woodturning Design magazine and like WD, I highly recommend this tool.

[Wally Dickerman]

I've been using a Glaser screw chuck since they first came out. I agree, with it's ultra-thin thread that displaces almost no wood it's the beast screw chuck around.

My last lathe was a Nichols custom lathe with a a LH thread. Jerry made a LH threaded chuck for me. I think that he made a few more after that on request.

[Jerry Wright]

Thanks for taking the time to relate your experience. The photos are really effective showing how it works. For the past 5 years I used the removable worm screw which came with my Nova chucks. It worked well, but I always had alignment and centering issues when reversing the bowl. I am not sure, but I always attributed it to the really coarse pitch threads on the screw and the shank that the jaws grab. It also could be an adventure to remove the screw sometimes. I have had the Glaser chuck for about 6-8 months. All of the issues went away and I only use it. The combination of the fine, Sharp threads and the adjustable backer plate make all of the difference. It is a labor saver, for this old turner! Plus it looks Sharp!

[Brian McInturff]

Thanks for the review. This is probably the only Glaser product I don't have yet. Well, there are a couple items in different sizes I don't have. But this is already in my cart for purchase. I could've used it this past weekend on a blank I turned.

[Harvey Ghesser]

Thank you, Wally and Jerry, for your positive comments on the Glaser Screw Chuck.

I just finished roughing out the last of my BLM and as Wally and Jerry surely will agree...the tool is a pleasure to use. Brian, you're in for a pleasant surprise.

[Bill Wyko]

Harvey, I'm convinced, thanks for the review. I've been eyeballing one for a while now. I look at the one that came with one of my chucks and it just seems to scary to use. I never felt it was thought out, just an after thought. This unit really seems to have been very well designed and thought out. You talked me into it, there's one on the way. I have a few burls I've been saving because I didn't know how I was going to chuck them up. Problem solved. Thanks my friend for the review, I'll do a review as well once I put it to the test. Can't wait.

[Michael Mills]

Looks really good Harvey.
Thanks for the review; appears to be a fine bit of machining.
I tried the screw in my Nova a couple of times and it did work but I just didn’t feel as secure with it in green wood so I went back to my faceplate. That looks... mmmm....very stout :)
Your surface appears to be cut really flat (too flat for a chain saw), do you have something to prepare the surface for the 4.5” plate? A large bandsaw? My largest forstner is about 3.5” but I do have a hand held planer that may work with a couple of passes.
Their web site was real slow for some reason so... Does the screw itself adjust in/out for depth in green vs. dry wood or do you need a spaces (such as for a platter)?
Thanks,
Mike

[Harvey Ghesser]

Hi Mike,

Most of the blanks I buy come off a bandsaw, so I never have to flatten one side. If I did, I'd consider using my belt sander or as you said, use a hand plane. I've never adjusted the screw and so it's 3/4 of an inch wet or dry. Coincidentally, today I turned a bone dry BLM burl and the Glaser Screw Chuck held as tenaciously as ever. If you're turning thin stuff, you might need to use a sacrificial glue board.

Do call Paulo at Glaser HiTec. He'll answer all your questions. They are very well know for their excellent customer service.

[Jerry Wright]

The threaded "faceplate" allows you to use as much or as little of the screw as you desire.

[Harvey Ghesser]

Jerry, if I had to shorten the screw for any reason, I would put a "washer" (use your imagination) between the work and chuck. However, I can't help but think that Mr. Glaser designed this device with the thought in mind that 3/4 inch was the proper length. Just my opinion but lots I don't know and understand yet.

[Jerry Wright]

Harvey - one of the most useful attributes of the chuck is that in adjusting the threaded position of the threaded backer plate, you can utilize a screw thread from 0 to .75 inches long. That makes it particularly useful for holding thin blanks. On a large bowl blank I would use the full length of the screw. On the other hand, on a thin blank you may only want to turn a shallow dished top, therefore you need a shallow hole.

[Ryan Baker]

Now that's a bit of information I did not know about this screw chuck (the adjustable screw length). Very cool feature indeed. I have been thinking about one of those screw chucks for a long time. I may just have to pick one up one of these days.