Alex Horvath
01-06-2012, 3:11 PM
Hi all,
Been putting this off too long and now due to a home refi I need to get this installed in 2 weeks since inspector flagged it.
Hopefully one or more people here have installed stair systems.
I have articles on installing railings and there seem to be 2 common methods-
1. Using a string stretched between fittings - this won't work as described on mine because my upper over easing fitting is not a gooseneck and thus I can't attach the string to the bottom of the upper over easing (upper over easing is seen resting on the landing in picture and that newel post is not installed or cut to length).
2. Using a pitch block. It seems like a pitch block will only work if the spacing between the newel posts is exactly a multiple of the run and the horizontal length of the tandem cap and lowerstarting easing cap is identical. But in any case it will get you the correct angles on the easings. However, I suppose the horizontal portion of the tandem cap can be trimmed so the upper newel post lands in the correct spot to preserve the correct baluster spacing.
So, if I use the pitch block approach on both easings which will, when the straight rail section is cut to the correct length, get me to the correct height on the upper easing. Then, my upper newel post location will be determined by the baluster spacing and will require me to trim the tandem cap or in the worst case add a straight section to the tandem cap.
Perhaps I could use the string method (which seems easier to me) by just taping the string to the outside edge of the upper easing, perhaps using a short section of railing aligned with the string to narrow down the location? Then perhaps use the assembled straight railing to mark the upper easing in place (after upper newel post is installed)?
My baluster spacing is 3&5/16".
Thanks for any tips.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/alexh1000_photos/stair-railing.jpg
Been putting this off too long and now due to a home refi I need to get this installed in 2 weeks since inspector flagged it.
Hopefully one or more people here have installed stair systems.
I have articles on installing railings and there seem to be 2 common methods-
1. Using a string stretched between fittings - this won't work as described on mine because my upper over easing fitting is not a gooseneck and thus I can't attach the string to the bottom of the upper over easing (upper over easing is seen resting on the landing in picture and that newel post is not installed or cut to length).
2. Using a pitch block. It seems like a pitch block will only work if the spacing between the newel posts is exactly a multiple of the run and the horizontal length of the tandem cap and lowerstarting easing cap is identical. But in any case it will get you the correct angles on the easings. However, I suppose the horizontal portion of the tandem cap can be trimmed so the upper newel post lands in the correct spot to preserve the correct baluster spacing.
So, if I use the pitch block approach on both easings which will, when the straight rail section is cut to the correct length, get me to the correct height on the upper easing. Then, my upper newel post location will be determined by the baluster spacing and will require me to trim the tandem cap or in the worst case add a straight section to the tandem cap.
Perhaps I could use the string method (which seems easier to me) by just taping the string to the outside edge of the upper easing, perhaps using a short section of railing aligned with the string to narrow down the location? Then perhaps use the assembled straight railing to mark the upper easing in place (after upper newel post is installed)?
My baluster spacing is 3&5/16".
Thanks for any tips.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/alexh1000_photos/stair-railing.jpg