Raised Panel With or Without Undercutter

[Scott C. Williams]

What is the preference. I want to purchase a raised panel cove bit to use in a Porter-Cable 890, 2 1/4 HP router and can't decide. Also are the triple or quad wing worth the extra cost verses the standard double wing cutter?

[Todd Burch]

The preference is yours!

If you aren't sure, you can get a panel raiser with a removable back cutter and have your cake and eat it too. Otherwise, using separate bits, it's just that much more time you will spend setting up, and standing at, the router table, and another opportunity to screw something up by setting a bit height incorrectly.

I personally don't care for the profile a typical back cutter leaves. The small profile creates a tight, deep "trough" which is difficult to finish. I avoid this by either using a 1/8" thinner panel than the rails and stiles and just leave the panel flat on the back side, or, use my cove cutter on the back of the panel, lower than normal, to create a larger area that is easier to finish.

I've been raising panels for some time now with several different perfectly capable double-wing cutters. If you want better results than a double-wing cutter can provide, save up for a shaper. (IMHO) ;)

Todd

[J.R. Rutter]

I prefer flat backs so that you can flatten and use up stock for panels that is too "not flat" for rails and stiles.

[Andrew Flowers]

You can still find discontinued Milwaukee raised panel router bits in the cove pattern on eBay. The Milwaukee bit is the same Freud bit without the fancy red paint job for about $40 delivered. You will love this cutter and the savings.

[Rick Potter]

I personally prefer the look of the back bit. Be aware that some panel cutters can be set so the panel is level with the rail and stile, but some can't . I have a Freud shaper cutter that simply will not do that on 3/4" panels. I could plane them to 5/8" but it would not have a back cut then.

Rick Potter

[Leo Graywacz]

Nice thing about a back cutter is you will get a tongue that is the proper thickness every time. Without it you have to be careful of the tongue thickness.

[J.R. Rutter]

Nice thing about a back cutter is you will get a tongue that is the proper thickness every time. Without it you have to be careful of the tongue thickness.

Unless you can run the cutter above the table (are there router bits that allow this?).

[Leo Graywacz]

I've never seen one like that, it would have to be upside down. I have a shaper and do it that way so the tongue is always .244"

[Bill Huber]

Unless you can run the cutter above the table (are there router bits that allow this?).

I am new to raised panels but I have a set of Woodline with the back cut or under cut and they work great. The back cut part is on top and the raised panel is on the bottom so you do your panels face down. I agree with Leo, they make a nice tongue and it fits like it should with no problems.

218832

[J.R. Rutter]

I've never seen one like that, it would have to be upside down. I have a shaper and do it that way so the tongue is always .244"

Must be a big liability issue. I'm used to shapers, too.

[Scott C. Williams]

You can still find discontinued Milwaukee raised panel router bits in the cove pattern on eBay. The Milwaukee bit is the same Freud bit without the fancy red paint job for about $40 delivered. You will love this cutter and the savings.

I have the reil and style bits from Milwaukee and for what little time I have used them they have done a good job. The raised panel bits I am considering are the MLCS Katana.

[Michael W. Clark]

I have an Infinity bit with backcutter. Works great. Keep the tight to the table with a push block. Take breaks with the 890. It will get too hot.

[Larry Fox]

I have used both and prefer without. Benefits as I see it are:

- Panel is easier to prep for finish as the entire back of the panel is flat and you don't need to worry about doing anything with the profile
- I use Freud inset shaper cutters and they call for a 5/8" thick panel if you don't use the back cutter. The ones I have done with the back-cutter call for a 3/4" panel. Doesn't seem like much but it makes a difference to me.

[andy photenas]

I have had a lot of issues getting panels perfect fits into the groove of the rail/stile so for production kitchen making in a small shop i am thinking about buying a 3 wing raised panel with back cutter for that reason.
Are these bits hard to use ? And do you guys think this will speed things up ?
Also what are the best brands for a pro shop to look for i do have shaper/router tables to work on.

[Bill Huber]

I have had a lot of issues getting panels perfect fits into the groove of the rail/stile so for production kitchen making in a small shop i am thinking about buying a 3 wing raised panel with back cutter for that reason.
Are these bits hard to use ? And do you guys think this will speed things up ?
Also what are the best brands for a pro shop to look for i do have shaper/router tables to work on.

I really can't help you on the shaper but I do know that with the router table the bits are not hard to set up and use. With the profile cutter you do have to take more then one cut on the router, the last cut is very shallow and you get a very nice finished cut.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Andy, I don't think they are hard to use, but get good cutters. Freeborn makes IMHO, the best cutters for shapers to do this. Their rail and stile combos are very good as well.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I guess it depends on how you work. I have horizontal and vertical bits and have tried it different ways. I'm settled on the vertical bit with a slightly thinner panel so back cutting isn't necessary. YMMV.

[andy photenas]

here is the issue im having. after sanding a panel flat which im doing on a jet 16/32 drum sander. now this machine is small for a panel sander and its only 16" wide with an open end making in theory possible to do 32"" panels.
This tool has you set the open side just a bit hi so you dont get a dig line in the middle of wide panels.
As you can guess this slightly changes the thickness of the panels from one side to another. I think my issue is coming from that and when i try any panel that has a cut on one side and depends on the thickness of the wood to be perfect im finding problems fitting my panels in the groove it will fit in some places and not others
HOW DO U GUYS GET THIS SO PERFECT!??? I have done a bit of timber framing and you always use one side as a refrence side to make this problem stop. so i figured that a one shot cutter that cuts the back cut would fix that and not depend on the panel thickness in any way am i right in that ?

[Mark Bolton]

Well any variation in thickness is going to show up somewhere. If your panel is thicker on one side my question would be how often do you use the >16" capacity of your sander? If it's rarely I would adjust the sander for a dead flat panel and run it that way the bulk of the time. When you need the wide capacity adjust it back.

With the router bit option your in a bit better spot with a cutter an back cutter. With the face down setup any thick and thin will show on the back of the panel (varying profile).

[andy photenas]

thts what im aiming for i think ill invest in a cutter set that i can remove the back cutter if needed ty for the advice guys this it's quite pricy trying all things to find out what to do this saves a lot of time and money!