Cutting a cove in hickory

[Anthony Scott]

I have plans for a billiard ball rack that calls for a 1" wide 3/8" deep cove cut in to four shelves.
I have seen this done in a magazine with a table saw jig and I have seen a core box router bit big enough to do it.
Since hickory is so hard what would be the best way to reduce tear out and such? I would prefer the router it because it seems simpler. The table saw jig looks like it is a pain to use and dangerous.
Thanks

[Todd Burch]

+1 for the tablesaw. I would make straight rip cuts in the waste material first before coving. I use straight boards, clamped to the saw table, for my "jigs" when coving. It's fast. (My saw is surrounded with shop-made extension tables, so I have plenty of side and rear support.)

[Lee Schierer]

Hickory cuts nicely with sharp carbide bits (I've used Freud bits with no problem). Like cherry you won't want to hesitate along the cut or else it might burn. You also need to read the grain so the you aren't lifting the grain with the cutting edge. Either remove the excess stock with a TS or take light cuts.

[Terry Beadle]

I'd be tempted to build the ball racks piece meal. Take your router and set up a cove cut bit in it of the radius desired. Rip or make the two sides of the ball rack the length you need. Add a flat spacer piece in the center to get the desired width. Glue the three pieces, finish and you're done.

You wouldn't need to buy a 1 inch wide cove cutting bit. You could even just cut on the TS a 45 degree bevel on one side of the rail componets. Balls like to roll and billiard balls like to especially.

Just a suggestion.

Also, Hickory is a difficult wood to work in. You may want to consider some cherry or even a stained poplar for just the rolling surface componet instead. Hickory has lots of grain direction changes and is hard on cutting edges IMO.

[Anthony Scott]

I have thought about making or buying cove molding and simply gluing to the shelves.