Where to Find Jointer Lock Bars

[Michael W. Clark]

Hi all, this is my first thread on the Creek. I was hoping it would be a tool gloat, but instead I am seeking some advice and expertise.

I just bought a used Rockwell 37-220 6" Jointer and it seems to be in pretty good shape. This is my first "real" jointer, my old one is a 6" Craftsman benchtop (for sale to anyone interested). I was replacing the blades last night in the Rockwell jointer and noticed one of the knife locking bars has a stripped thread for one of the gib screws. The bar is no longer available from Delta and I can't find it on-line. The Delta part number is 418-06-004-0001 and it is item 32 in the parts diagram. Any ideas on where I could purchase one or any comments on making a new one? I'm not sure if it is a special alloy of steel and also do not know what the drilling angle would be for the gib screws.

Any help is much appreciated.

Mike

[Ray Newman]

Since only one of the gib screws threads on the bar is stripped out, take it to a good machine shop (or machine shop supply house for a recommendation as to who can) to determine if it can be re-tapped for a larger size screw. 'Dunno' if this is possible, but it might be a solution....

[david brum]

I will go out on a limb and say that a part from a similar Grizzly jointer will probably work. Many hobbyist level machines borrow heavily from older Delta (Rockwell) designs.

There are two foreseeable possible issues with using a newer part on an older machine. First, the gib bolts could easily be metric instead of standard thread, so you might want to buy new gib bolts as well. Second, the newer gib bar might be a different weight than your original. I'm pretty sure that could spell trouble on a jointer, so you might want to actually buy three gib bars and associated gib bolts. It's still only $20 in parts.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0452/parts/2

[Floyd Mah]

Here's a little known secret: how to make a hole smaller. Most people know, to their dismay, how to make a hole in metal bigger, but not so many know how to shrink the hole. Since it sounds like you might be replacing the part, here's how to shrink the hole, so that the screw might grab more tightly. One way is to weld some new metal into the hole. The following procedure can be destructive, so you have to plan on the technique to be irreversible and possibly weakening the grip. Also, if you can just re-drill the hole and tap for a larger screw, you might be better off. Having said all of that, if you take a metal bearing that is larger in diameter than the hole by a few millimeters and strike it with a hammer against the hole, the part of the hole closest to the bearing will get smaller. Be sure to place the part on a metal anvil, else hitting it in this way will bend the bar. It might tighten the opening enough for the screw to grab. Another technique is to take a metal punch (center punch) and dimple the metal close to the edge of the hole. This will cause metal to drift toward the center of the hole, again tightening it. Both of these techniques will make the hole smaller, but at the same time, you will make the metal weaker in this area. Part of the effectiveness of this will depend also on the hardness and thickness of the bar. If you choose to do these things, you may still have to retap the bar. Anyway, a few ideas in case you run out of options or if you just want to bang on the bar for the heck of it.

[mickey cassiba]

something we used in the machine shops was Devcon(sp?) It is a two part epoxy like product that can be machined like steel after curing. This is not like JB weld or other epoxy products. I have repaired many bolt holes and several low torqwue gear teeth with it. Pretty expensive stuff, and the mix ratio is critical, but it works. There is also a formulation for aluminum. Grainger and MSC both carry it.

[Rick Lizek]

Piece of cake... You can call delta direct and they should be able to find one at a distributor. Helicoil to repair the thread! I have done this many times as my job is repairing jointers and machinery in general. Don't over think this!

[Thomas Hotchkin]

I am with Rick on the Helicoil. If you do not feel your skill level is up to this, have a machine shop install the coil for you. It will help to keep the cutter head at the same weight and in balance. Tom

[Kevin Presutti]

I am going to say forget enlarging the hole and using a bigger diameter screw. I have changed knives in a an old Delta-Rockwell there isn't enough room.
I would take it to a weld shop after you cleaned ALL the paint off and have them plug weld the hole, if you cannot drill and tap the hole yourself have them do it as well. The only really important thing to remember is to check the dimensions of the location of the hole and write them down. Would seem to be about a $5-$10 fix to me.

[CPeter James]

Go to the OWWM (Old Woodworking Machines) site and post a wanted to buy on the BOYD(Bring Out Your Dead) section. These people deal in old machines and are extremely helpful.

www.owwm.org

[Michael W. Clark]

Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to try to purchase one before trying to repair at OWWM
or a Delta service center. I forgot about helicoil. Good idea. Thanks again.

[Brian Weick]

Mike,
Cpeter was referring to the classified section...it's called BOYD-bring out your dead. You can put up a WTB-want to buy add for your gib......I am almost certain someone has the gib ......



B,

[Michael W. Clark]

Mike,
Cpeter was referring to the classified section...it's called BOYD-bring out your dead. You can put up a WTB-want to buy add for your gib......I am almost certain someone has the gib ......



B,

Ok, thanks Brian. I'll post something there. I'm going to check the Delta service center first, but I bet I will end up at OWWM.

[Jerome Hanby]

This may not be of any help at all, but I saw it in an older Wood magazine this morning. There is some company making a disposable jointer blade system along the same lines as the systems used on planers like the Ridgid lunchbox model. In addition to talking about the blades being reversible, the article mentioned that you replaced the knife holding hardware and therefore the system wasn't universally compatible. They referred readers to the manufacturer website for compatibility information. That system might be of some help to you. I can't recall exact company name, but it was something with most of the word disposal in the name, disposablade or some such.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

This may not be of any help at all, but I saw it in an older Wood magazine this morning. There is some company making a disposable jointer blade system along the same lines as the systems used on planers like the Ridgid lunchbox model. In addition to talking about the blades being reversible, the article mentioned that you replaced the knife holding hardware and therefore the system wasn't universally compatible. They referred readers to the manufacturer website for compatibility information. That system might be of some help to you. I can't recall exact company name, but it was something with most of the word disposal in the name, disposablade or some such.
Www. Estausa.com has been selling dispozablade for jointers for 15 years

[Jerome Hanby]

Www. Estausa.com has been selling dispozablade for jointers for 15 years

That's the one, I surfed and found them after I made that last post. wonder if their system would help the original poster. Reading on their website it sounds like that stripped screw hole might still be an issue...

[Curt Harms]

I'm disappointed in this crowd. Michael has the perfect excuse to replace that obsolete cutterhead (sorry dear, I tried but I can't get a new one, it's discontinued) with a Byrd head.:cool: :p
Barring that, it seems like fill, drill and retap or helicoil would be options.

[Michael W. Clark]

I went to OWWM and did a search of the forum for the knife lock bars. I found one where someone had a similar problem with the same jointer I have. They purchased bars for a newer Delta model and they worked. I also purchased the newer bars. I got three bars and the screws in case they were different so I wouldn't be out of balance. The new bars are slightly different with a scooped edge. Assuming its a chip breaker. Ill install them and provide an update. A more expensive fix but I got a good price on the jointer.