18" bandsaw

[Randy Henry]

Problably against my better judgement, I bought a used Jet JWBS-18. I have been thinking about getting one of the new Grizzly 17" saws, but this one came up on CL and I did not pay alot for it. At this time, its not worthy of a "gloat" due to the performance. When I checked it out, it ran smooth, blade tracked well, its in very good condition, and I cut a piece of 1" oak which it did good. When I got home, I tried resawing a piece of 6" oak. Not going to happen. The fence is square to the table, etc., but the saw was wanting to cut at an angle. I had to move the fence to the left while the saw was still running just so I could complete the cut. It made a nice wedge/shim. My question is, and I probably already know the answer, is this saw worth the nickle/diming that it is going to take to get it to where it might be usable (new blades, guides, etc), or should I try to get rid of it. I got it to replace my Grizzly G0555. Right now, the Grizz is hands down better at resawing than the Jet and I won't get rid of the Grizz until the Jet issue is resolved. For what I paid for this saw, the money could have paid for the upgrade to the 514 line over the 513 line I was contemplating at Grizzly. Thanks.

[Jim Matthews]

Not to put too fine a point on it, but is the blade new?

I replaced a "sharp" blade with a new one from Iturra and my resaw problems vanished.
The Jet 18 is a good machine, I would want to check the cheapest parts, first (that would be the blade).

Jim
Westport, MA

[John Coloccia]

It doesn't sound like the saw needs anything but maybe some tuning. Nothing you've said suggests that anything needs to be replaced except maybe the blade.

[Fred Belknap]

The proper blade for what you are doing makes all the difference in the world on a BS. Suffolks Machinery Corp is good about getting you the right blade for the job.

[Phil Thien]

The proper blade for what you are doing makes all the difference in the world on a BS. Suffolks Machinery Corp is good about getting you the right blade for the job.

I'd skip Suffolk and go to Iturra or Woodcraftbands.com. Call Louis (Iturra) or go to Woodcraftbands.com, and tell him you need a good resaw blade, and a perfect weld, to find out of the Jet 18" saw you've purchased is worthy of additional investment.

I suggest staying away from Suffolk because there have been just too many threads about poor welds. You don't need to add any more variables to the equation at this point. You need to see how the saw performs with a good blade and then decide if you want to move forward or not.

[Douglas Snyder]

I have a Jet JWBS-18 and after getting some advice from Michael Fortune and properly tuning it up - it runs perfect. There is some vibration to the saw which is a nuisance, but I can resaw repeatly resaw down to 1/16 inch thick peices for hours and no problem. The main think is the blade. Once I got a good blade it worked like magic. The other thing is do not over tighten the blade and use tracing paper instead of a dollar bill to space the side guides. The biggest problem I have with the saw is the table is not very secure. If I place a large wood blank on the table (turning blanks), I have to be careful the table does not move out of 90 degrees. The vibration is a nuisance, but the table moving is a problem.

[John Shuk]

The proper blade for what you are doing makes all the difference in the world on a BS. Suffolks Machinery Corp is good about getting you the right blade for the job.
They really are helpful. A quick phone call and they will send some great blades for what you are doing. I had the same frustration with my bandsaw when trying to resaw. Once I learned to account for the drift of the blade, I found that I got good results. Youtube has some good videos that can describe it better than I. I wouldn't write the saw off just yet.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bandsaw+blade+drift&oq=bandsaw+blade+drift&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=1161l9257l0l11815l19l19l0l5l1l0l219l2179l1. 11.2l14l0

[Van Huskey]

As others said it sounds like it needs a tune up. To start a good sharp blade, Iturra is one I trust, Suffolk is not though some have had good luck with them. My experience with Suffolk has been poor welds. If your saw is one of the older ones with a square spine and not the newer triangular spine don't go overboard with blade width. I would stay at 3/4" so you can properly tension it.

[Don Jarvie]

Get the manual and go through the set-up step by step. Put a new blade and use the saw for a while. If you still can't use it then get rid of it.

How do you know you won't have similar issues with the Griz? From my limited experience getting a bandsaw to work well takes some practice. You still need to account for some drift in the blade and will need to tweak the saw and your technique so it works for you.

[Van Huskey]

If you don't already have Mark Duginski's bandsaw book, BUY IT. http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw/dp/1565233182/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1325797269&sr=1-4

The best book for bandsaws and I own and have read EVERYONE of them I am aware of, plus it is cheap.

[Jerome Hanby]

If you don't already have Mark Duginski's bandsaw book, BUY IT. http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw/dp/1565233182/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1325797269&sr=1-4

The best book for bandsaws and I own and have read EVERYONE of them I am aware of, plus it is cheap.

He's got at least one video that goes through the bandsaw setup too. I checked it out of our local library system,

[Van Huskey]

He's got at least one video that goes through the bandsaw setup too. I checked it out of our local library system,

It is excellent as well, he sets up several different sized saws and different sized blades, a good watch particularly if you are a visual learner.

[Randy Henry]

Thanks for all the suggestions and help. Planned on getting a new blade as I have a strong suspicion this may be the factory blade. The owner owed his landlord rent, couldn't pay, so he gave his landlord the saw, who knows nothing about it. Judging from the condition of the saw, and his other tools he had, they weren't used very much. I will get the book, and tried watching the Youtube vids, but I live in an area that doesn't have high speed internet, so I will give that a try in town.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

You may not even need a new band. It may only require making sure the blade is riding correctly on the wheel and tensioned correctly, the guides are set correctly and the fence is adjusted for drift (in that order).

I use a half inch "smoothslicer" from woodcraftbands on my 18" Jet and it works wonderfully!
Salem

[Randy Henry]

What kind of guides are on your Jet? I downloaded the manual and mine are not the ball bearing type that are in the manual. Mine are wheels on each side of the blade, that you can adjust in or out. There is a bearing wheel behind the blade. I set the 2 wheels to where they just barely touch the blade and spin. As far as the tension, I just used the scale on the back. I am not familiar with the proper way to do it by any other way.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I have the same guides. I adjust mine a tad looser. As close as possible without them moving. This assumes the band runs true and doesn't wobble.

The tension scale on most bandsaws (all?) are useless. One way to measure is by deflection but you have to know what the proper deflection feels like :). Another way to do it is to adjust it too loose (not flappy of course) and slowly add tension until it runs smoothly. Also be sure the blade is running on the right part of the wheel: teeth a little forward of center. This also contributes to minimizng drift.

In the end you definitely want more then one band. So go ahead and buy a band or two from a good dealer so you can rule out "bad band". For this saw I am happy with a 1/2" "smoothslicer" from woodcraftbands for resawing and ripping. For curves I use a 3/16". When I bought these I picked up a couple at once to save on shipping. I told the owner of woodcraftbands what I was going to cut and relied on his advice.

Salem

[Joseph Tarantino]

randy, i feel your pain. i also got a jwbs-18 off CL and had it cost more than the $40 i paid for it, i'd be even more disappointed than i initially was. i went through 4 brand new t-wolf blades trying to address a blade loping problem and all 4 had less than perfect welds (note the oscillating motion of the blade).


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrxBP8YBKYM&feature=plcp&context=C34b9369U DOEgsToPDskKzgl2slsexDpYIhsUqPnsA

after following phil thien's advice, i got a lennox promaster from iturra and the saw now passes a nickel test, even with non-coplanar wheels thanks to the $175 "tune up" performed by an authorized jet dealer (can they be anymore useless than they are?). please note the nickel to the left of the blade. the resaw portion of the video was just a first attempt at resawing anything. comments concerning the quality of the result would be appreciated


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVj_4Hq3uHE

lastly, here is the manual for the jwbs-18:

http://www.misgroupinc.com/partfiles/man_708750B.pdf

good luck with getting the saw to perform properly. once set up, it appears to be a fairly functional band saw. nothing spectacular, which is one of the reasons that, at retail prices, these saws are poor values.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

40$? You could get more from a scrap dealer. Sorry you had a bad experience with timber wolf bands. But note that that was just a band issue and it should not sour you on the saw. I am pretty darn happy with mine.

As for the resaw results I have never used a promaster but it looks like at least one tooth has too much set as evidenced by the strong vertical lines. With my 1/2" band I get significantly smoother. But I don't think it is a matter of the bandsaw setup. Your saw looks to be running smoothly.
Salem

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I took my phone down to the garage and took a quick video of a piece of maple straight off the bandsaw for reference:

http://youtu.be/t3qFajzIgQk

(make sure you view the larger size, otherwise the compression takes away all detail)

The only gripes I have with the saw is how you adjust the lower guides. That is just stoopid. And one real pleasant surprise I had is the DC seems to work! It doesn't get all the dust above the table but it does better then I would have expected for a single 4" port. The lower compartment doesn't really get any dust all. And the lower guides stay pretty dust free too.

Salem

[Joseph Tarantino]

you're dead on with those comments, salem. nice resaw results. what blade was used and where was it purchased? right now i'm debating keeping the jet or selling it and keeping the craftsman 22401 (feature packed clone of the rikon 10-320) i picked up for $100 on clearance at sears (space is a big consideration).

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Wow you are pretty good at sniffing out a deal! I have never used the Craftsman you are talking about so it is hard for me to give you advice. But that won't stop me :). I like the 18" saw size. Longer blades last longer (more teeth, less stress from the more gradual bend) and I like the larger table. The Jet also has 2" more resaw capacity. Also I doubt the 18" takes up significantly more room.

The blade is a "smooth slicer" from woodcraftbands.com. 1/2", don't remember the TPI but I think it is about 3. It is apparently the same band stock as Highland's "Woodslicer" but that name is trademarked or something :). If you decide to give them a try don't bother with the website. Those guys are old school. Give them a call and tell 'em what you will be cutting. I have always been happy with their recommendations.

Good luck!
Salem

[Randy Henry]

Joseph, looks good to me. I haven't had time to try the nickel test, but the saw runs smooth. Thanks for the manaual link. Also, I googled Iturra Band saw blades and did not come up with a supplier. Who is the vendor for these blades?

[Van Huskey]

Joseph, looks good to me. I haven't had time to try the nickel test, but the saw runs smooth. Thanks for the manaual link. Also, I googled Iturra Band saw blades and did not come up with a supplier. Who is the vendor for these blades?

Louis Iturra is seriously old school, no website. Call them, this is the last number I used (904) 642-2802. When you get your blade ordered ask for a copy of their catalog, most of it is about 14" Delta cast saws and the clones but it has a wealth of info.

[Roger Myers]

Randy,
In an thread from a day or two ago, you will see that I just purchased a Laguna LT20 to supplement (not replace) my Jet 18" saw. I found the Jet to be a great performer when properly adjusted and when equipped with the correct blade for the job.
I resaw a fair amount (primary reason for the LT20 is the increased resaw capacity, going from 10" to over 20").
When I equipped the Jet 18" saw with a Laguna Resaw King 1 1/4" blade, I had excellent resaw results.
This is a pretty big blade for this saw, and you need to take your time in resawing...feed at a reasonably slow rate and let the saw do the work.
Now this is a pretty expensive blade, but resawing even 6" oak is a tough task, so a good blade makes a difference, and while the initial blade cost is high, these blades can be resharpened several times.
After proper adjustment of tracking and setting the upper and lower guides correctly, I found the resaw results to be great. Sometimes you do need to make an adjustment of your fence for drift, but on my Jet 18" with the set up I described, I had virtually no drift. Drift can however be do just as much to the individual blade (set, and so on) as to anything else, so every blade and setup needs to account for it...
My only complaint with the Jet 18" saw was that the guides, especially the lower are a real pain in the butt to set...but setting them correctly for each blade is essential for good resawing results.
You have a good saw...don't give up on it...equip it with the right blades for each task, set it up correctly, and enjoy. And don't be afraid or reluctant to change blades for specific tasks...I have seen too many people who just want to leave one blade on the bandsaw for all work, and the wonder why they don't get good results.
Roger

[Joseph Tarantino]

....I like the 18" saw size. Longer blades last longer (more teeth, less stress from the more gradual bend) and I like the larger table. The Jet also has 2" more resaw capacity.... Salem

funny, those are the same observations lou iturra made when called him.

randy, lou is a really good band saw guy. informative and friendly (very unlike mark duginske). every suggstion he has made has improved the performance of my 18" jet. good luck with yours. BTW, what did it set you back? hopefully it was gloatworthy.

[Dave Lehnert]

Not sure if your model saw has the Triangular design frame or not. The Triangular design frame was added to address complaints of the saw frame flexing. Could frame flexing be the issue?

[Joseph Tarantino]

Not sure if your model saw has the Triangular design frame or not. The Triangular design frame was added to address complaints of the saw frame flexing. Could frame flexing be the issue?

ding, ding, ding...we have a winner. yes, the jwbs-18 is a square column saw that predates the switch to the triangular column. the column did not, however, in any way contribute to the blade loping problem. in my case, it was strictly a function of the imperfect timberwolf blade welds.

[Randy Henry]

While waiting for the Iturra blades to come in, I got around to adjusting the fence for drift. The fence was out more than 1" in a 20" board and would not adjust that much. I ended up loosening all the table bolts and the bolts that hold the trunnion to the base, and had to adjust the drift that way, then fine tune it in with the fence. Ended up getting it almost perfect. When the blades got here, I put on the 3/4 blade Louis recommended, and it works o.k. It went through 8" oak, though very slowly. The cut was clean and square, which is more important than speed for me. It don't really mean anything to me, but the saw passed the nickel test before and after the new blade was put on. Overall, I don't think I got a bad deal on the saw as I paid about 40% of what it costed new, not the deal Joseph got, but I could probably sell it for what I got in to it. Thanks for all the help.

[Van Huskey]

If you want to resaw tall stock remember it is a 1.75hp saw. I suggest a thin kerf 5/8" or 3/4" hardened spring steel blade like the Woodslicer, Kerfmaster or the Bladerunner that Iturra sells. What blade did he send you, it well may be a Bladerunner, if so you have the right blade for that saw in terms of resawing.

[Dan Hintz]

Randy,

When I adjusted my Jet 18", I was having a terrible time getting a straight cut. I thought I understood how to set it all up, but try as I might, I simply could not get a drift-free cut. The fence would not angle enough to get a straight cut it was so bad. I wasn't sure at that point if it was a bum saw, a poor setup, or my poor technique (having never used a bandsaw up to that point). I cut through hundreds of feet of wood with no better results. I got the fence as close as possible to a straight cut, and if I leaned just right I could get a pretty straight cut.

And then I put on a new blade to replace the factory one. What the?! My cuts are all crooked again! So I rechecked the drift freehand. What the?! No drift. The new blade cut with practically zero drift. NOW my setup makes great cuts, and it was all due to a poor blade.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

It is possible the table was crooked due to shipping or the previous owner. But I don't think you should USB to adjust the table typically.

Note that another source of drift is if the wheels are not coplaner or the blade is riding too far forward or toward the back of the wheel. Are these two right for your saw?

If so then throw the old blade away :).
Salem

[Randy Henry]

Van,
I told Louis what saw I had, and to be honest with you, I am kinda bladed out from overload trying to fully grasp all the different scenarios. I got the book you suggested and after reading that and listening to Louis and trying to sort through all of that, I have come to a conclusion for me: just try to learn what I can on this site and hope for the best. I lost the invoice from Iturra, but the blade says "Starrett" on it, I believe its 3TPI, and the kerf is much more than the blade that came with the saw. The drift problem is corrected, no issues. Right now, I don't think I want to keep spending money on blades trying to get it "perfect". I think the saw was manhandled by the table by the previous owner and caused that problem. The blade is riding the wheels just a little forward on the tooth side from center, where I understand it needs to be.

[Van Huskey]

If it ain't broke! It seems he picked a semi-aggressive carbon steel blade with a decent amount of set. Good safe multi-purpose choice, when it comes time to replace it know that there are a LOT of other choices that will work better for certain applications, unfortunately bandsaws aren't a one blade saw like a table saw can be, unless you only do one type of cutting. If there is no drift then the blade is riding where it WANTS to be, no need to be concerned about that.