Lee Valley Bevel Up jack plane

[Dale Cruea]

After several weeks of mulling it over I purchased a LV BU jack plane.
It arrived in the mail yesterday.
Upon opening the box I had to notice that it is a very nice looking plane. Well machined.
After reading another post I noticed that it did come in a blue plastic bag that was sealed.
The plane did not look to have oil on it however it looked like something had been put on it at one time and may be had dried.
There were some light stains in the plane but not bad. Mineral spirits did not remove the stains however an oily rag did. Stains all gone.
The blade did not come installed as most planes I have purchased. The blade had the same staining and the same oily rag took care of most of the stain.
The back of the blade must have taken all of 30 seconds per different stone. It was FLAT out of the box. I have NEVER purchased a plane with an iron or separate iron that was this flat.
Not from LN or Hock.

The plane was ready to go out of the box. I took it apart to make sure everything was oiled and in working condition. It was. Nice thin coat of oil on the moving parts, which I left.
The blade is A-2 and it appears to be a little harder than all of my other A-2 blades. It takes a few more minutes to sharpen but when sharpened it IS sharp.

I bought this plane for my shooting board and end grain.
The plane makes a very nice,thin shaving on the end grain of the walnut and cherry I have tried so far.
The blade did nick on the walnut however I think it was because I was trying to take too big of cut and how I was using the plane. I was using short chopping cuts. (just started using a shooting board)

I like the plane very well on the end grain.
I tried it on surface planing. I don't care for the feel. It feels very different from the standard type planes. Fells like you are up too high on the tote and not behind the plane.

Just thought I would share this with anyone that was looking into LV BU planes. I have seen several pros and cons written about the differences between BD and the BU planes.
I am glad I purchased this plane it does all I was hoping it would.
BTW, I am using only the 25 degree blade now. I would like to get some of the other blades later to check out.

[Jim Koepke]

The back of the blade must have taken all of 30 seconds per different stone. It was FLAT out of the box. I have NEVER purchased a plane with an iron or separate iron that was this flat.
Not from LN or Hock.

…

I bought this plane for my shooting board and end grain.
The plane makes a very nice,thin shaving on the end grain of the walnut and cherry I have tried so far.
The blade did nick on the walnut however I think it was because I was trying to take too big of cut and how I was using the plane. I was using short chopping cuts. (just started using a shooting board)

I like the plane very well on the end grain.
I tried it on surface planing. I don't care for the feel. It feels very different from the standard type planes. Fells like you are up too high on the tote and not behind the plane.

...



I think LV blades are likely to be the flattest backed blades you can buy. They have done a lot for the purpose of delivering a flat backed blade.

My blades tend to chip more on end grain than on anything else other than hitting a knot. Sometimes it is foreign matter in the wood. Sometimes it is just a hard spot in the wood.

You will likely find over time you get better results by taking a light cut that allows you to make a single stroke across the end grain. It will also be less stressful to the blade's edge.

Others have made comments about the Veritas totes being angled more for a taller bench. The Stanley/Bailey/LN style tote gives a bit more of an upward tilt to the wrist.

Once you get used to it, the others will likely feel strange.

Some like BU planes for working face grain and edges. Some prefer BD planes for all but end grain. If it works, that is all that really matters.

jtk

[Jim Neeley]

I would like to get some of the other blades later to check out.

Dale, it's much easier to stick with all 25* primary grinds and then add whatever secondary bevel you desire. It's a *lot* less hand sharpening!! Check out Derek's writeup on the topic.

Jim