Clear Resin ?

[Ken Hill]

I turned a nice piece of cherry yesterday and it has a very deep void. It is roughly 1/4 deep and 1.5 inches long in a V shape. It does not make it to the interior of the bowl.

I CA'd the interior of the void and if it all makes it through drying I would like to use something inside the void that could be seen, similiar to a feather in a pen blank.

Anyway, I assume casting resin but wasnt sure how it would work on such a void. Tips & suggestions helpful.....

[Russell Eaton]

Could you fill it with clear epoxy?

[Ken Hill]

I sure could, I wasnt sure though if it would offer the same visability to an item or items placed inside the void. I do not believe the void will cause any issues towards structural integrity so holding power isnt my main intent.

[Russell Eaton]

I think the biggest issue is to keep the bubbles out of the fill. I have heard of using epoxy before. I think on pens they use clear similar 41 or something close to it. I know that Rockler has a small cast kit. I think a couple of the craft stores do as well. Not sure of the price.

[Todd Bin]

I think Epoxy is the way to go. If you want it to be clear then you need to get the really slow curing stuff. It is called mirror coat. Woodcraft sells it. Rockler probably does too. It is the stuff they use on the top of bars. It is self leveling and cures in 24 hours. I have used it before and it works great -- Not cheap though.

~Todd

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[Steve Vaughan]

A couple more options - I recently filled a crack with some epoxy colored with sienna tinting (a dark brown color). It mixed well with the epoxy and hardened just fine. Another possibility is to mix in brass key shavings with the epoxy...might look really good on the cherry.

[David E Keller]

I think bubbles would be the main concern. If I were in you shoes, I'd try to bribe Alan Trout to cast it for me. He's got a mongo sized pressure pot and a world of experience with doing just what you describe. My understanding is that feathers are particularly difficult to cast without bubbles. I hope to see it finished!

[John Keeton]

Consider the background - will the dark background of the void provide clarity to what you are wanting? Should you lighten/color the background of the void to enhance your effort? Just something to consider prior to the attempt to fill.

[Ken Hill]

Not really intending feathers, just used that as an example but always a possibility. I was thinking a bear claw or tooth.......

[Ken Hill]

Consider the background - will the dark background of the void provide clarity to what you are wanting? Should you lighten/color the background of the void to enhance your effort? Just something to consider prior to the attempt to fill.

Void is dark, tooth polished would really stand out. Claw would blend in I do believe....but that is something to really keep in mind!

[Ken Hill]

A couple more options - I recently filled a crack with some epoxy colored with sienna tinting (a dark brown color). It mixed well with the epoxy and hardened just fine. Another possibility is to mix in brass key shavings with the epoxy...might look really good on the cherry.


Aaron Wingert does some incredible brass inlays, and it would look good if I can do it haha. I have a few mushroomed bullets that were recovered, wouldnt that be interesting.....

[Dan Hintz]

Void is dark, tooth polished would really stand out. Claw would blend in I do believe....but that is something to really keep in mind!
Put a thin layer of brass/resin in the void first, let dry, then add more resin with the claw. Nice background that will make the claw stand out.

[Ken Hill]

Dan, you might have found yourself a project LOL

[Alan Trout]

Depending on the size of the void it may be able to be cast or not. The resin I use needs a little mass for a proper exothermic reaction. If you can take a picture I am more than willing to give you my thoughts on it. I am much more a visual kind of person. If I can see it I might have a suggestion.

Alan

[John Terefenko]

Not sure what you are doing but I do know something about resin. I cast my own pen blanks alot of times and do use a clear resin called Silmar41 It is abit expensive. Another resin used is sold at Michaels and other craft stores called Cast-N- Craft resin. To avoid bubbles I always heat my resin 125 degrees for about 6 minutes. I makes the resin thinner. But the thing here is when you add the catalyst you need to work fast because you now have started the heating process that much sooner. Good luck and look forward to your project.

[Ken Hill]

When the AS dries I will grab a picture of it.

[Michael Menzli]

They sell the table top slow resin add lowes as well. As stated it isnt cheap..like $35 or so . I personally like things as natural as possible. What ive done in the past is use my roughest turning wheel on my grinder and hit the side of it with some bark creating some dust and bits of bark...i then use ca and my dust/bark mix. its glossy but very natural looking. I would think epoxy would do the same. If your simply trying to fill the entire thing with epoxy I would worry about it settling and making an indention of sorts.

On a side note I dont like any of the random turquoise, brass stuff others use..really tacky imo..to each their own though

[Ken Hill]

I prefer not to have the common materials included as well, to each their own ofcourse. I usually just do as you suggested and the void is filled in and its not really anything that stands out. I figured I might be able to personalize this one as a gift to the feller who found and helped me get all these burls, hence the bear tooth or claw. The brass on Wingerts game calls is outstanding however, but then again, each item is different and can really go with a certain item used as filler etc.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ken I think the mirror coat with the bear claw would look awesome. I have used the mirror coat and mixed it with dyes. It works pretty well.

[Ken Hill]

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I will check into that Bernie

Here is one I just roughed. It has a similiar void but this one goes all the way through and I would like to keep those areas. New area for me as I usually do not have these types of defect in what I am used to turning.....atleast at this level.

I oiled the rough out and am standing by with CA in hand if thats what is considered the best way to proceed. Advice,tipes, suggestions?

[David E Keller]

Neat looking piece, Ken! I'd paint it with anchor seal or at least bag it with fresh shavings... It loves to crack, and I don't know that the oil will be enough.

[steven carter]

Ken,

I wouldn't worry about the voids that are contained by solid wood, but if the void reaches the rim, I would give a good dose of CA and proceed carefully. I have at times applied tape or stretch wrap around the outside while turning the inside for extra support. If it is only bark that is holding a section on, it could come off, so proceed with caution. Go slowly with light cuts, stay out of the "line of fire" and as always protect your face and head. Good luck!

[Alan Trout]

It could be cast with polyurethane resin but it would need to be dry. Polyester resin shrinks to much and could pull away from the wood. but Epoxy resin would work well also. If I were to use epoxy I would get the thinnest possible.

Alan

[James Combs]

It could be cast with polyurethane resin but it would need to be dry. Polyester resin shrinks to much and could pull away from the wood. but Epoxy resin would work well also. If I were to use epoxy I would get the thinnest possible.

Alan

Expanding on what Alan said, I have read(no experience) that when working with wood it is best to use an epoxy verses any of the poly resins. The epoxy apparantly actually cross-links with the wood cell structure and is very strong where as the p-resins kind of sit on the top of the wood and aren't very good structurally. Just food for thought.

[Ken Hill]

David, i oiled it so the CA wouldnt cause a color issue...I will CA glue anything near the rim then AS the entire thing and wait her out

I willd o some more reading on the resin & epoxy. Once the bowl is dry and ready for finishing I will repost and see what everyone thinks

[Alan Trout]

Expanding on what Alan said, I have read(no experience) that when working with wood it is best to use an epoxy verses any of the poly resins. The epoxy apparantly actually cross-links with the wood cell structure and is very strong where as the p-resins kind of sit on the top of the wood and aren't very good structurally. Just food for thought.

Actually polyurethane resins will bond very well and I have a lot of experience with it but it needs to be cast under pressure. Polyester shrinks and will separate. If you are not going to cast under pressure the epoxy would be best.

Alan

[Michael Menzli]

Ken, Ive found walnut bark to be spectacular in filling that color..looks kind of like the deep reds common in the ambrosia I find. The only catch would be if this cherry were to season or change color the walnut bark prob. wouldnt follow. My opinion would be this is art in motion. Capture the void and this woods characteristics while perhaps making it functional. I will say cherry likes to move and split when it starts to dry so id get it sealed really quick. You may consider getting that void sealed up somehow to it doesnt break apart if the wood moves on you. Looks great... I checked and Im about 3 hrs south of you. We'll have to catch up sometime.

[Ken Hill]

I anchor sealed it and the 3 others I made today. Just the one in question has a void I would like to use. The last one I just turned got really friendly with CA glue. I dont recall ever turning anything I could see through but that is now accomplished:D

You are welcome anytime, if you come this way bring a truck or trailer to take some wood home!