Drop In Router Plate On Router Table.....

[Corey Hallagan]

Sorry if I sound like an idiot. Been using my Craftsman router table for 15 years and am looking to upgrade to one of the newer style laminiate style router tables such as Rocker's. These tops have the base that attaches to the router so you can lift it in and out. The question is: if you wanted to use that router for some work away from the table, can you lift it out and then that base attachment becomes your router base for operations away from the table? Or do you have to remove the router from the base etc. Just curious on how that works.
Thanks,
Corey

[Mike Kelly]

Corey, it is usually pretty cumbersome (9 1/4" X 11 3/4"), but if you can handle it you can use it. Nothing to prevent using it that way and it might give you a more stable base in some situations.

[Tim Morton]

The question is: if you wanted to use that router for some work away from the table, can you lift it out and then that base attachment becomes your router base for operations away from the table? Or do you have to remove the router from the base etc. Just curious on how that works.

Generally speaking you would use a large 3HP router in a dedicated table, and have a smaller 1.5 or 2HP router for hand held use. But its not terribly difficult to remove the phenolic base from the router either. But if you find yourself pulling the router out on every project, it might be time to own two routers.

[Ellen Benkin]

I have a Rockler table with a Porter Cable router. You remove the base plate from the router and then the plate that fits into the table screws on to the router. I think it would be very awkward to use that as a base plate for non-table use. On the other hand, the system makes it very easy to remove the plate when changing bits. Other tables may work differently, but I agree with one of the other posts -- have one dedicated router for the table and another for non-table (plunge) use.

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks guys, I kind of figured it was going to be a little large to use away from the table. Tim, I have several routers that I have been using for 15 years or more. My favorite is a 1 1/2 horse Craftsman that I use for free hand. The others are 1 1/8 horse craftsman including the one I keep in the router table. I probably won't ever have a 3 HP router due to the cost, but I am looking at the Hitatchi 12VC as a dedicated router for my new table set up when I get it. I think the 2 1/4 with a 1/2 collet will seem like night and day compared to the 1/4 collet 1 1/8 HP model mounted in my table now. But it has done some serious wood working and I have made rail & style doors with it and a whole lot more.
Thanks all,
Corey

[Greg Mann]

Corey,

If you build your own top, without an insert but with a direct mounted router, the money you save could buy a very nice router for the table. You could go with a fixed base router, adjustable from the top (or not), or a plunger like the Hitachi M12V, adjustable from the top with a Router Raiser or from the bottom as is.

The insert plate seems handy but does make for more opportunity to collect debri in the seam or excess holes. Before all you insert lovers nail me I have to admit that I have an insert in my table. But if I had it to do again, I would probably go without an insert. Once one decides to dedicate a router, the insert is much less important.

Greg

[Corey Hallagan]

Good point Greg, my current router has been in the table for 14 years. I took several years off from wood working and when I come back, this seems to be one of the big changes, custom router tops with removable insert plates and now router lifts. Just what is the big reason for the insert plates, adjustability of the router, easier bit changes?
Thanks,
Corey

[Jon Olson]

You can look into the new Lee Valley router top. Much smaller and lighter. They say you can switch back forth between table and hand use without removal of the the insert.

Jon