Oak wood question

[Jeff Belany]

I've been turning for 13+ years but mostly pens and other small items. I have made a few small bowls but find I don't have the patience to turn green and then store until they dry some and turn again. I have never tryed turning dry wood for small bowls and vessels. Do many of you do this? How well does it work? Seems to me it should work OK but curious what you experienced guys think. One of the main reasons I ask is that I have an opportunity to buy a fairly large quantity of 6x6x 3/4" Oak. My thought was to glue up several to make a turning block. I have also looked at Ringmasters in the past. Do many of you use this devise? Does it work well?

Just trying to decide if I should shell out some $$ to get this Oak. It's kind of a one shot deal. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. SMC is usually my first read every morning. So many talented people out there. Thanks in advance for any help.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

[Michelle Rich]

folks turn dry wood all the time...Ought to make very good segmented or bowl from board vessels. As a matter of fact, segmented & bowls from a board should always use dried wood

[Bill Hensley]

Jeff I know nothing of the Ringmasters but a large percentage of what I turn is dry wood. Go for it if it's a good deal.

[Gordon Thompson]

my opinion, i wouldn't pay for oak. i think oak is fairly non-descript as a turning wood, plus i don't like how it turns...very 'chippy'.

[Robert Newton]

I have been using a Ringmaster for over a year and really love it. Very easy to use and makes great use of the wood. If you ever get by Sheboygan you could try mine.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I wouldn't invest in a Ringmaster when you can do the same operation on any lathe with a parting tool, so save that amount for a bigger lathe or some new tools. .

[Robert Henrickson]

my opinion, i wouldn't pay for oak. i think oak is fairly non-descript as a turning wood, plus i don't like how it turns...very 'chippy'.

I'm not sure how much I'd pay for oak, but some can be spectacular. I'd turned a fair amount, green and dry, and rarely have problems with chipping. I do make a point of avoiding oak that is too open-grained / porous. I've made everything from hollow forms to plates to spindles to split turnings. I've turned some curly white oak which behaves well and looks great. If the wood on offer has interesting grain, and is not too open-grained, it might be worth paying some.

[Jack Mincey]

Have you ever thought of turning nature edge bowls down to finish thickness green. This one is just over 15" dia turned down to around 3/16" or less wall thickness while green and it was dry in less than a month. It is from red oak burl and some of the prettiest wood I've ever turned.
Jack
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/flyrod444/IMG_2409.jpg

[Jake Helmboldt]

I've turned quite a bit of dry wood and it is dustier and harder on tools than turning green. As for your situation, I wouldn't waste the money (personally). There is so much free wood available for turning that it doesn't make sense to pay for wood that isn't something special. I also don't care much for oak, unless it is burl, for turning. My opinion is to save your money and find some free wood that is more fun to turn.