Adjustable height drawers

[Lee Schierer]

I'm designing a new pantry for LOML and I want to make pull out trays. I'm looking for a way to mount the drawer slides that would allow me to change the vertical spacing of the trays to accommodate different heights of items being stored on the trays. Does anyone make drawer slides that can easily be moved in height from one location to another? Something like the 1/4" shelf pin system often used for book shelves.

[frank shic]

tenn-tex makes a product like that

[glenn bradley]

http://www.amazon.com/Accuride-Shelf-Standard-Slide-Brackets/dp/B001DT3QNU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_5

[frank shic]

here's the link:

http://www.tenntex.com/literature/62_ttcatalog102408qtray.pdf

[Peter J Lee]

Long ago on this forum someone had an excellent way to build adjustable height roll-out shelves. I tried searching for it and couldn't find it. I'm sure I have a link or a copy of the thread somewhere. Its probably on the CD archive of my old hard drive. My vague recollection was that it was similar to the eld fashioned notched wooden drawer standards and somehow rather than a cross member, the drawers fit in. I'm rambling and probably not much help. I'll poke around later. Good luck.

Edit: Okay, they're called "sawtooth" shelf supports and my vague recollection was that a fellow on here did something similar, mounted the drawer slides on the front to back bar and then was able to slide the roll out shelf wherever. Here are a couple links to show what sawtooth supports are:

http://sawtoothshelfsystem.net/www.sawtoothshelfsystem.com/sawtooth_shelf_support.html

http://woodmechanic.blogspot.com/2008/07/sawtooth-shelf-supports.html

[James Hamilton]

Try the removable caul system normally used for adjustable shelves. Only fasten the roller to the shelf support boards. It would work great, I think.

[Mike Goetzke]

I just went through this task a couple weeks ago. I just ended up using soft close undermount slides and cut custome blocks to hold the front of the slides and screwed them to the backside of the face frame. At the back I just used the rear adjustable L brackets. With minimal trouble they can be moved but I spent time measuring our items and made the openings progressivy larger.



Mike


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Projects/Kitchen/Cabinets/Pantry/IMG_3488.jpg

[Richard McComas]

Long ago on this forum someone had an excellent way to build adjustable height roll-out shelves. I tried searching for it and couldn't find it. I'm sure I have a link or a copy of the thread somewhere. Its probably on the CD archive of my old hard drive. My vague recollection was that it was similar to the eld fashioned notched wooden drawer standards and somehow rather than a cross member, the drawers fit in. I'm rambling and probably not much help. I'll poke around later. Good luck.

Edit: Okay, they're called "sawtooth" shelf supports and my vague recollection was that a fellow on here did something similar, mounted the drawer slides on the front to back bar and then was able to slide the roll out shelf wherever. Here are a couple links to show what sawtooth supports are:

http://sawtoothshelfsystem.net/www.sawtoothshelfsystem.com/sawtooth_shelf_support.html

http://woodmechanic.blogspot.com/2008/07/sawtooth-shelf-supports.html

That could have possibly been me/I.


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/shopcabinets.jpg

[Jay Jolliffe]

If you mount the strip of wood the you need to clear the hinges vertical & drill it with a shelf pin gig then you can adjust the shelves but moving the slides up or down. When ypu mount the wood strip make sure it lines up with the holes on the slide. I use the 5mm euro screws to mount them.

[Peter J Lee]

That could have possibly been me/I.


I think so. Is that thread still accessible? More importantly, how has that system worked out in practice?

[Will Blick]

Great link Frank.... it seems the Tenn Tex system has this solution all worked-out, and in an eloquent manner. Their solution also solves the problem of the drawers slides moving in and out, which would occur if you used shelf pins and wood supports, unless you notched all the wood support for the shelf pins to sit in.... If you don't notch the slide wood supports, you would have to make the wood supports a tight fit, which will make them difficult to change positioning, specially with a bit of warping.

[James Hamilton]

Richard's Idea was the one I was referring to- I forgot what you call it, but I've seen it used many times.

[Jay Jolliffe]

You don't use shelf pins. I used a shelf pin template with 5mm drill. Then used the 5mm euro screws to attach the slides to the vertical pieces.

[Richard McComas]

I think so. Is that thread still accessible? More importantly, how has that system worked out in practice?I don't know about "that thread" but the system has worked very well.

[Mike Goetzke]

Great link Frank.... it seems the Tenn Tex system has this solution all worked-out, and in an eloquent manner. Their solution also solves the problem of the drawers slides moving in and out, which would occur if you used shelf pins and wood supports, unless you notched all the wood support for the shelf pins to sit in.... If you don't notch the slide wood supports, you would have to make the wood supports a tight fit, which will make them difficult to change positioning, specially with a bit of warping.

When I was looking at the Tenn Tex system I found this place to be the least expensive: http://quikdrawers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=215

, but, when you add it all up it becomes a little expensive. That's why I chose the approach in my previous post. I decided to spend the $ on high end slides rather than adjustable shelves that you may change once in a lifetime.

Mike

[Kurt Cady]

That could have possibly been me/I.


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/shopcabinets.jpg


Are those dovetails or simple square dado cuts?

[Richard McComas]

Are those dovetails or simple square dado cuts?Those are just square dadoes. I should add the back uprights have hole in in the bottom of the notches to accept a pin on the end of the cross member. This keep the slide in place when the drawer is fully extended.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/socket1.jpg

[Jason White]

Sorry to revive this ancient thread...

Rich -- can you please show a picture of the end of the board with the pin?

- Jason


Those are just square dadoes. I should add the back uprights have hole in in the bottom of the notches to accept a pin on the end of the cross member. This keep the slide in place when the drawer is fully extended.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/socket1.jpg

[Richard McComas]

Jason

Actually my "pin" what just a screw driven into the end of the cross piece. You could use just about anything. Just something that stick out enough to catch in the side of the hole.

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[Michael Dedon]

I used Rich's method on MIL's kitchen, although I believe I got the layout from someone else. Two points. First, She absolutely had to have adjustable pullouts but has never found the need to adjust them after everything was installed. Second, the pins Rich shows are necessary. I didn't do that and used a screw in the back to provide tension. That wasn't the best idea. Otherwise, the layout is easy enough to construct, install and adjust during use. And it doesn't cost a lot.

[Jason White]

Perfect, thanks!

- Jason


Jason

Actually my "pin" what just a screw driven into the end of the cross piece. You could use just about anything. Just something that stick out enough to catch in the side of the hole.

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