Veritas Beading tool questions

[Rick Fisher]

Hello..

I have a wooden handled Vertias beading tool. Its new, and I am having a tough time figuring out how to operate it ..

This is the tool.. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=62030&cat=1,41182

I am hoping someone here has one and can answer a few questions..

The first question is in setting the cutter.. it seems that it just get pinched in a random space between the two jaws.. The problem I am having is adjusting it for depth, and getting it in the same spot again.. It seems like there is something I am missing here..

The second question is the fence.. I think I am pushing too hard, it only has one screw holding it in place and moves while I am using it ..

I watched the LN Video on their beading tool, excellent video.. but this one is a bit different design..

Basically all my test efforts have turned into a mess, with the knife not cutting in the same spot consistently..

Its a heck of a nicely made tool, which makes me assume its probably me .. lol

[Mark Berenbrok]

I use a Stanley 66 and cannot comment on the LV setup. However, for larger profiles I start with a shallower cut and gradually advance the depth. I've also found that scraping tools, even those from LV and LN, need to be sharpened prior to use. I'll start with 600 sandpaper and go to 2000 on a granite plate.

[Trevor Walsh]

From what I understand of that design, the fence is indexed into position by a square recess which allows only one screw to hold it in place. Is that particular assembly intact?

As far as depth repeatability, do you mean for the purposes of cutting some beads, they disassembling it and cutting more? My default with a scratch stock is to leave a specific setting until everything has been cut at that setting. I built a frame and panel apron table with the insides of the frame beaded, all interior surfaces were cut at one setting.

If I had, had, had to move a blade I would run an extra 10" or so of that profile on the stock setup, then when resetting the blade use that length to setup my cutter.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Rick

I wrote a short review, with pictorial, here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/MiniReviewofVeritasBeader.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rick Fisher]

Thanks for the response..

I think I am trying to over think the process.. The reason for adjusting the blade was simply because on the LN Video, he sets the blade at 1/2 the cut, then when half the cut is done, the blade is lowered for the rest of the cut .. I tried to mimic that but the blade is simply pinched in this tool. On the LN, the blade sits in a specific spot.
Leaving the blade fully exposed and not pushing very hard works but its tougher for me to keep the fence against the edge..

Derek, I liked your short review.. My issue is actually more of a set-up issue.. I have never used a beading tool until this one.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Rick

The first factor that all (who have not used this particular beader before) should take note of is that it works very differently to the #66 Stanley or LN. So instructions are not interchangeable.

You wrote: The problem I am having is adjusting it for depth, and getting it in the same spot again.. It seems like there is something I am missing here..

What I would do (visualising the situation and writing from memory as it is a while since I last used this beader) is:

(1) place the cutter in the beader with the screws done up just tightly enough to prevent it falling out.

(2) place the cutter in the groove that has been started (or, if not started, on the spot from which you wish to start it).

(3) holding the cutter firmly on this spot, slide the beader across until the fence rests against the side of the workpiece. Then tighten the screws.

(4) for increasing depth, use a hammer to tap it down. To reduce depth, hole the cutter in the groove, loosen the screws, and press the beader down a tad (or use a hammer to tap the body lower).

The way I think of the setup is that it is similar to using a cutting gauge. Once you dial into this idea,then it is quite easy to do. I do not have pictures of doing this wit the beader - never thought to include it before - but may now take some pictures and add them into the review. For now, I have appended pics of the process using my mortice gauge ...

218081

Simply place the ends of the knives (or points) in the ends of the cut.

218082

Now slide the head of the gauge against the work piece to set its depth.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_557894d4.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James Owen]

Your description of using the beading tool suggests that you are putting fairly heavy pressure on the tool. If that is so, try easing off the pressure somewhat. It's been my experience that letting the tool do the work for you, rather than trying to "force" it through too much pressure, gives much better, much cleaner results. One other thing that may help is to use your hands like you would for a rebate or combination plane: one hand provides a slight downward and mostly forward pushing pressure (or if you are using a pulling motion, pulling pressure), the other keeps the fence firmly against the work piece. Each hand has a distinct and separate function.

Also, try tilting the cutter at various angles, until you find one that gives the best cutting action; this is similar to finding the "right" angle on a card scraper.

As far as getting the same cutting depth: try setting the cutter into the already cut beading, and then tightening the cutter holder, and fence snug against the work piece. That should get you the same setting, or at least very, very close. I use this technique with the LN beading tool all the time; works like a charm.

Another technique is to set the cutter where you want it for depth, and then use a Sharpie to mark it. That way, you can always reset it to the same depth. When you're done, wipe off the Sharpie mark with a little rubbing alcohol, and it's clean and ready for the next depth setting marking.....

[Rick Fisher]

I took another stab at it tonight.. A bit less rushed and followed the advice posted here.. Its working pretty well.. The problem was the perception of the way I thought it would work, compared to how it actually works.. lol

I got it leaving a nice bead by as someone here said, let the tool do the work.. Thanks for the replies. Pretty neat tool..

[Prashun Patel]

Rick-
I'm thinking about getting this. How have you liked it after a couple weeks use?
- prashun