Laguna BS Fence

[Dave Novak]

I need to re-saw some 12" material and I'd like to attach a "sacrificial" fence to the stock fence to make it taller. But for the life of me I can't figure out how to attach it. It seems logical that the fence would be designed for this, anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

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[Dan Bowman]

How about the Universal Fence clamps from Rockler? I use them with my table saw fence all the time.

[Wes Grass]

No drill press?

I sunk threaded inserts into the back of an MDF fence, and found some plastic knobs with threaded studs at the local hardware store. Woodcraft or Rockler should have a selection. Simpler; flathead screws through the plate, nuts on the back; wood screws through the fence, etc.

[John Lanciani]

I did it like this...
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[Jamie Buxton]

On mine, I drilled and tapped four 1/4-20 holes in the face of the fence. Aluminum taps quite nicely. The fence extension is 3/4" thick, counter-bored so the heads of the socket-headed cap screws don't interfere with the workpieces.

[Dave Novak]

I feel like an idiot, I never thought of drilling holes in my fence; and John, that fence mod is beautiful. On my project list.

[Mike Goetzke]

I believe Laguna also sells an 8" fence - don't know if that is tall enough or not?

Mike

[David Wong]

I did it like this...
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John, Cool roller supports for resawing. Is it adjustable to stock thickness and cut? It looks like the jig is keyed into the miter slot on the table?

[John Lanciani]

John, Cool roller supports for resawing. Is it adjustable to stock thickness and cut? It looks like the jig is keyed into the miter slot on the table?

More pics of my setup here; http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?178546-Veneering-Resawing-questions

[ian maybury]

Just noticed you have several vertical saw cuts in the back of your play fence. Is that to help ensure it bolts flat against the saw fence?

ian

[Alan Lightstone]

I used the Rockler universal clamps to make a 9" tall resaw fence this week for my Driftmaster. Too much play in the top of the board. While it was quick and easy, I wouldn't recommend it.

Now John's jig, while it will take work to build, looks truly amazing.

[John Lanciani]

Yes, it is just to allow the plywood to have enough give so that the clamping bar can pull it flat to the fence.


Just noticed you have several vertical saw cuts in the back of your play fence. Is that to help ensure it bolts flat against the saw fence?

ian

[David Wong]

Thanks for the link John. What a neat and well thought out jig. Appreciate you sharing it.

[Alan Lightstone]

Has anyone used the taller Laguna fence? It appears to be 8" instead of the 4" (max) standard Driftmaster Fence. I'm wondering if the 8" support would be enough for resawing, or whether a 10-12" fence would be more appropriate.

[Van Huskey]

Has anyone used the taller Laguna fence? It appears to be 8" instead of the 4" (max) standard Driftmaster Fence. I'm wondering if the 8" support would be enough for resawing, or whether a 10-12" fence would be more appropriate.


I consider an 8" fence to be adequate for up to about 13-14" of resaw. BTW I think if you had used 4 of the Rockler clamps, 2 on top and one on each end near the bottom that would work as well.

[James Hamilton]

Wow- that's nice, John!

[Roger Feeley]

I'm looking at the Driftmaster for my Rikon 18" saw. Does the fence come off if you want it out of the way. I got Laguna to send me the users guide and it doesn't talk about that. I see that cast iron table with the fence attached. I'm thinking that that has to stay but I wonder about the fence if I want to use the full throat distance of the saw.

[Mike Goetzke]

I'm looking at the Driftmaster for my Rikon 18" saw. Does the fence come off if you want it out of the way. I got Laguna to send me the users guide and it doesn't talk about that. I see that cast iron table with the fence attached. I'm thinking that that has to stay but I wonder about the fence if I want to use the full throat distance of the saw.

Yes, is slides off easily but you are still left with the fence support.

[Jim Matthews]

That's brilliant, John.

Perhaps you could post a more detailed description? The link shows the assembly,
it would be nice to see the adjustment in play. Sample veneers, maybe?
The roller section is particularly clever.

Jim
Westport, MA

[Salem Ganzhorn]

My jet only resaws 10" but I find the stock fence perfectly adequate for it. Just make sure the edge that rides in the talbe is jointed. I think a couple inches of good support is all that should be needed. There should not be any major twisting force involved.
Good luck!
Salem

[Van Huskey]

Salem, are you familiar with the fence in question? Despite its name (I think Laguna ran out of Resaw ____ names) it's strong suit is quick and accurate resawing particularly veneer. While a couple of inches of fence is fine for resawing a board in half, which is usually easier freehand, slicing 1/16" or thinner veneer is a whole other subject. Even at "only" 10 inches a board is pretty hard to control well enough with only a two inch fence to get decent veneer. If you haven't seen the DriftMaster take a look and watch the video if you have a few minutes, it is the cats meow for veneer resawing IMO: http://www.lagunatools.com/accessories/bandsaw-fences/bandsaw-driftmaster

[Jim Falsetti]

John,

That is an impressive resaw setup. Do you have a blade preference?

Jim

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Van, I have played with this fence at a fellow woodworker's house. It is quite nice! The specs say it has 3.5" of height. That is really quite a bit of surface area. But I don't want to discredit your point. I never resaw 1/16" veneer. I don't have a wide belt/drum sander so I always go thick enough to plane. So I have never actually resawed 1/16" x 10" on my machine. If I did maybe I would want a taller fence :).
Salem

[John Lanciani]

Jim M, The adjustment is a little crude and mostly by feel. There is enough range in the springs for 2 or 3 slices before they need to be moved, and then I just turn each adjuster nut for the arms that are in play about 4 or 5 turns (1/4"-20 thread) and do it again. The veneer is smooth and flat enough that I normally don't bother to dress it before I put it in the vacuum bag. I normally flip the cant end for end after each cut so that if I'm bookmatching and there is any slight taper the thickness is spot on at the bookmatch seam. The beauty of my jig is that I only need to concentrate on feed rate, the jig takes care of keeping the stock on the fence and my fingers out of the blade.

Jim F, I've tried them all and even thoughit is not the unanimous favorite here at the creek I still think that the Lenox trimaster 1"x 2-3 tooth is the best overall blade for veneer. It is the most expensive and it is slower than most of the others, but it has the highest cut quality throughout it's long life. None of the others hold a candle to the trimaster in my book.