Attaching wood to wood template for template routing

[Don Morris]

Double sided tape sometimes moves, small nail holes can and do show up in the finished product (LOML saw every one). I'm looking for other ideas. Those are the two I've tried and had sometimes less than satisfactory results.

[Steve Jenkins]

Vacumn hold downworks really well provided you have or can get a vac. pump.I use a piece of 3/4" malamine covered particle board with a hole through it to plug in the vacumn line and make my pattern from 3/4 mdf. put a closed cell neoprene gasket on both faces of the pattern and a hole all the way through it top to bottom. lay the pattern on the melamine and your piece to shape on top of the pattern. When you pull a vac. it will pull the top piece down to the pattern and both down to the melamine covered platten that you have clamped to your bench. It will be rock solid

[david brum]

Don, I'm curious about what kind of double stick tape you're using and how you're applying it. You shouldn't be having that much trouble with the pattern moving.

[Peter Quinn]

I've used spec tape brand turners tape for pattern work on a shaper, never had a movement issue. The biggest issue is actually removing the template. It is pressure sensitive adhesive, it needs pressure. I like to squeeze it with clamps to set it in place. I use screws when ever possible. Lots of objects have a back side, my wife has never laid on the floor looking up to see the holes in the bottom of a table top, not yet any way. Sometimes you can place screws in a part that will be cut off later, run the pattern that way. It takes a bit more planning, not always feasible. Destaco clamps can be a big help on a jig that will be making a lot of the same parts. A bit of PSA sandpaper strategically placed can add traction and keep things in place, positive stops at the ends are a good idea too. Sometimes you can make the pattern long, add stops, screw into the end grain such as on legs.

[glenn bradley]

Double sided tape sometimes moves, small nail holes can and do show up in the finished product (LOML saw every one). I'm looking for other ideas. Those are the two I've tried and had sometimes less than satisfactory results.

I agree with others that question the type of tape you are using. I have had 3 different providers use the same part # for "good" tape and "not good" tape (the not-goods got returned with arequest that they be more consistent). I've gotten to where I buy a couple rolls whenever I find someone stocking SpecTape or the equivalent. This tape is .005" thick and sticks great (don't leave it on more than about 30 minutes or you'll be pulling wood off along with the template). You should really have to work at getting a double taped template to move.

[Bryan Cramer]

My double stick tape is labled as indoor carpet tape. I picked it up at the local borg. It works well and never moves (I use quick clamps to secure it). When I can I make the template to carry the workpice and use a top bearing guided bit in my router table. The templates are larger so I can place hold down clamps on it to secure the work piece.

[Van Huskey]

Find good tape and your problem is solved, except as Glenn points out if you leave it on too long!

[Myk Rian]

Glass fabric carpet tape from HD works for me. Press the parts together well, and remove as soon as you are done.

[Don Morris]

I got impatient and used my carpet tape. Lots more than I previously used. No problem except for pulling it off. Guess my prior problem was not enough. I used too much once long ago and pulled a venier off one side. That's why I've been gun shy about it's use. Was not able to place pins or other systems on this template as the shape and outline precluded any other systems. Couldn't use the back side either. It was on only long enough to do the routing then pry it off. Took a lot of prying as I really used a lot since there was no veneer to worry about. I must have a good brand. The cover box is gone. Thanks for the assist!

[larry senen]

i've used veneer tape with no holes to protect the piece and used double stick or hot melt to bind them.make a few squares of the tape and let them dry or iron to speed it up. use a putty knife to pry them apart.

[Bill Huber]

I have to agree with most of the replies, you must not use very good tape. I get all of mine from Eagle America, it sticks very good and comes off clean and leave no adhesive on the wood. Like others the problem is getting the parts apart at time.
I have tried tape from Woodcraft and Rockler and it left adhesive on the wood that you had to clean off and I don't like that.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v447-7150/adhesives

[John Coloccia]

I use this:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000848/3905/Double-Sided-Tape-1-x-36-Yards.aspx

If you use this:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000390/3903/DoubleFaced-Tape-1-x-36-yds.aspx

It will do precisely as Bill says and leave a mess. Yuck.

I have a cheap palette knife from the art store that I use to separate parts. As others have said, the only problem I ever have is actually getting the parts apart if I leave the tape on for too long :)

Steve's got the right idea, though. I've been toying with the idea of switching everything over to vacuum hold downs. If I can find a cheap way to make a vacuum, I'm there :)

[Roger Bullock]

If you don't cut your blank close to the template size, you may be making too aggressive of a cut which causes problems. Another problem may be your router bits, a good sharp bit can make all the difference.

[Don Morris]

The blanks was cut about 3/16" from the line. And this time I used brand new bits from Woodline. But understand the point about dull bits. Doing a clock from Klockit. I made the template. The template is for the front glass window cutout (15" X 7"). I'm making two clocks: the first one is a mockup. The second one will be made out of highly figured cherry, so I thought it would be worth it to make a template to do both.

[Bill Huber]

The blanks was cut about 3/16" from the line. And this time I used brand new bits from Woodline. But understand the point about dull bits. Doing a clock from Klockit. I made the template. The template is for the front glass window cutout (15" X 7"). I'm making two clocks: the first one is a mockup. The second one will be made out of highly figured cherry, so I thought it would be worth it to make a template to do both.

I don't know if you have a band saw or not but this is what I use to cut the item out and then finish it up with the router. I also use a 2 bearing router bit, this way I can always be cutting with the grain of the wood.

I use the tape to attach the template, cut it on the band saw at about 1/16 from the template and then take it to the router table.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18055&filter=bandsaw

I use a 2 bearing bit so as I come to a point that I am going to cut against the grain I flip the work over and raise or lower the bit so that I am always cutting with the grain.

http://www.infinitytools.com/Double-Bearing-Pattern-Router-Bits/products/1336/

[Jamie Buxton]

Sometimes clamps work. Clamp the template and workpiece together several places, and rout as much of the edges as you can reach. Then put clamps where you've routed, then remove some of the first clamps you put on. Rout some more of the edges. Repeat until you get everything done. The key is to add clamps before you remove clamps, so the template never gets the chance to shift on the workpiece.