Finish on tool handles ???

[Joe Watson]

Gonna be making some tool handles; files and lathe tools (and a shifter knob for a truck).
Being i have alot of dried walnut planks - 1.5 thick, that will probably be the choice.
What would be a good finish that will hold up for a while - low maintenance is important ?

Was planing on water based poly for hardwood floors (have a good amount of that here) ???

Thanks for any guidance.

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[David E Keller]

I don't care for slick wooden handles, so I generally use oil and beeswax. The truck knob is a different story... I'd probably use CA for the shifter knob followed by a coat of Ren wax. The poly would be OK for either, but it just wouldn't be my first choice.

[Ryan Baker]

Another vote for oil (danish or walnut), followed by a bit of Ren wax. I wouldn't put poly on any handle or other item that gets handled a lot because of the plasticy feel, though it would be durable enough. For the shift knob, I'd use lots of coats of lacquer, buffed to a perfect gloss.

[Dan Forman]

I think I've always used a couple coats of wiping varnish or wipe on poly, just enough to seal the wood, but not build a slick finish.

Dan

[Jamie Donaldson]

10-4 on the wiping poly for a durable yet non-slip finish.

[Greg Just]

Danish oil or many time nothing. The natural oils from you hands will add a nice finish.

[Scott Hackler]

I have only ever used BLO, applied on the lathe at high speed.

[Joe Watson]

cool, thanks every one... have some 1/4 square (http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/15882/?ProductTypeAttribute_DELIMITER_custom_type=5%+cob alt&search=true) stock coming in wednesday and plan on making a tool holder (with handle) to rough out HF's.
Gonna make a couple handle blanks over the weekend, being it will be mainly from walnut, i want to put something on it... stained black/purple hands suck :)
Looks like Walnut Oil (have a good amount of that here) then a light coat of poly.
I dont really care what the handles look like, i just want them to last and not have to deal with my hands staining or re-finishing them any time soon.

- Thanks for the CA tip Dave, will definitely keep it in mind - might take Ryan's advice and go with lacquer just because theres less of a chance for me to mess it up, never tried a CA finish before.

- Scott, when you say "high speed", whats that (i run CNC lathes at work, when someone tells me that have it cranking and then they follow with 17 hundred (machine metal) i giggle and tell them to jack it up to 25 hundred) - well all precieve things different (and different comfort levels).
Also, why fast (as opposed to slow or hand rubbing) - just wondering as it might help out in other areas.

Thanks again all...

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[John Keeton]

Joe, you have received some good responses, but I will add one more option. I sand to 320 and use BLO and then 2-3 coats of shellac from the can, applied with the same piece of paper towel that has BLO on it. That provides some lubrication when I "burn in" or polish the shellac - at high speed. To me, high speed is max at whichever belt I am on at the time with my 1642 - usually the low speed setting. What you want is heat generated by the speed. I will finish it off with buffing with steel wool on the lathe - slower speed! Unless you want the steel wool to wrap your hand around the turning!

Seems to wear well, and has plenty of "grab" for a tool handle. Most importantly, it is quick - all of about 5-10 minutes start to finish.

[Alan Zenreich]

I prefer several coats of Tru-Oil. It's used for gunstocks and is rather durable.

[Paul Heely]

On some gouge handles I made I used bee's wax, frictioned in. On the big Ellsworth style hollowing tools I made, I just sanded to 150 and called it done. On those I did turn the hand grip part off center so it is sort of oval shaped and is very easy to grip.

[Rich Aldrich]

I put nothing on my wood tool handles - just bare wood.

[Robert Henrickson]

A couple coats of wipe-on-poly.

[Jack Mincey]

I used oil on most of the tool handles, but the last three or four I used two coats of CA and it works great. You can steel wool it after and leave it or even buff it to a shine.
Jack

[Bernie Weishapl]

I friction BLO and then a couple of coats of shellac.

[Scott Hackler]

Joe, my high speed is about 2100 rpm. That's the speed I use on most spindles. And as John said, I use the friction to heat cure the BLO.