Finishing NYW router table

[Larry Browning]

I am contemplating how to finish my new router table. I have built a new router table from leftover oak and cherry plywood along with walnut trim. I am planning on spraying it with Target EM6000 and no stain. The fence is made from 3/4 MDF. If I apply the waterbased EM6000 to the fence, will the water damage the mdf? I know that mdf is quite sensitive to water and I do not want to damage my new fence. I want to put some sort of finish on the fence to protect it.

[glenn bradley]

Although it is described as not highly wear resistant, I have MDF jig surfaces that were treated only with shellac and paste wax that have been doing duty for years. I use a 1lb cut of de-waxed shellac and apply it in very light applications to avoid swelling.

[Todd Burch]

Hi Larry. Although I've not used EM6000 myself, I have sprayed waterborne finishes on MDF, and these types of finishes aren't the kind that will damage MDF. You should be fine.

If you have some scrap plastic laminate laying around - consider applying that to the MDF fence with some (water based, if you like!) contact cement.

Is your MDF the dense stuff or the loose stuff? If the loose stuff, I would certainly wrap it in something like plastic laminate.

Todd

[Larry Browning]

Hi Larry. Although I've not used EM6000 myself, I have sprayed waterborne finishes on MDF, and these types of finishes aren't the kind that will damage MDF. You should be fine.

If you have some scrap plastic laminate laying around - consider applying that to the MDF fence with some (water based, if you like!) contact cement.

Is your MDF the dense stuff or the loose stuff? If the loose stuff, I would certainly wrap it in something like plastic laminate.

Todd

The front surface already has the laminate I am just want to apply finish to the rest of the fence.

I think I will apply some to a scrap and see how it goes.

[Carl Beckett]

Hi Larry,

I have used shellac on MDF on a number of things (including my router table top, and tablesaw outfeed). It soaks into the surface a little and hardens and makes a pretty nice work surface (imo).

The trick is though, that as you build layers its hard to get it perfectly uniform with each layer. Not the first couple layers - but I was trying to build up a relatively thick film. So it looks 'blotchy' in spots. (which I dont care - but am just pointing out in case you do care)

[Scott Holmes]

Shellac is not to be built up to a thick coat as you can with varnish, waterborne or lacquer. The best shellac finish is the thinest possible finish that is flawless.

[Larry Browning]

I ended up using 3 coats of spar urethane I had left over from another project. I think it is going to work out pretty well. Thanks for all the input though.

[Scott Holmes]

Spar urethane is an exterior varnish thus it is much softer than interior varnishes. It will not be as durable as an interior finish. It will most likely wear off quicker than the much harder shellac.

I finish most jigs or shop aids with shellac, if they get any finish at all.

[Larry Browning]

Spar urethane is an exterior varnish thus it is much softer than interior varnishes. It will not be as durable as an interior finish. It will most likely wear off quicker than the much harder shellac.

I finish most jigs or shop aids with shellac, if they get any finish at all.
Well, as usual, I screwed up trying to do the right thing!