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Joe Fabbri
12-28-2011, 2:59 PM
Hi everyone,

I recently aquired a handful of old wooden planes, some molding, a plough, and some bench planes. I went ahead and cleaned some of them already with a damp cloth and then I applied a small amount of linseed oil on a rag. I didn't have the typical boiled linseed oil you'd buy in a can, but rather the type used in oil painting, called stand linseed oil. It's a bit more refined, and I think it will be less likely to yellow or darken over time.


To me, the few planes I cleaned up look great with this cleaning and oiling. The oil adds a nice luster and feel to the wood. But, I wanted to ask if what I'm doing is satisfactory or not. I know some say to simply wax the planes. But I felt the ones I had were on the dry side and could use a slight oiling first. But, what about wiping the planes with a damp cloth first? I just recently read that you should never touch them with anything with water in it, because it could cause them to swell and then check. This got me thinking. Have I made a mistake in cleaning them first in this way? If not a damp rag, then what should you clean them with first?

If I skip the damp rag, and simply use some wax, wouldn't that make oiling it ineffective?

And, what's a good general purpose wax to use? I used some old Simonize car and furniture wax on one of my first wooden planes--before researching it much. It seemed to do a pretty nice job. Is a generic wax like that okay?

They're not ultra valuable planes, nor are they in collector condition, but some are pretty nice, and I'd like to make sure I'm on the right path. So any advice is appreciated. And I'll try to get some pictures up soon.

Thanks,

Joe

Jack Curtis
12-28-2011, 3:10 PM
I'd say the main problem with oiling planes is touching them after, just a little uncomfortable. A secondary problem involves shellacking. If the wood you're planing gets oily or slick (from wax, too), it will require a bit of sanding before applying the shellac.

I don't see that anything you've done would adversely affect the planes themselves, assuming you haven't soaked them in water.

Jack

Joe Fabbri
12-28-2011, 3:18 PM
Hi Jack,

Thanks for the reply. I didn't think of the issues that might arise with shellac, but only on one plane have I lightly oiled the bottom--that was a molding plane. On the other planes, I stayed away from the soles, just because I figured I'd be lapping them slighly anyway.

Zahid Naqvi
12-28-2011, 7:36 PM
Joe, I have a few laminated planes I made myself in the Krenov style/tradition. Of these there is one which was a test piece to fine tune some ergonomic options, I kept it bare wood since it was a test piece. The plane is now 4 yrs old and my favorite in terms of the tactile feel. I have relatively sweaty hands and waxed or lacquered wood in my hand feels very slippery in summers. The bare wood plane gets dirty real quick but the "grip" stays very dry and comfortable under all conditions. Now when I acquire older planes I only sand them to remove any alignment issues that may have developed, but if the plane performs as it should I only work on the blade. Some of the planes I do like to finish are the ones which are made out of quarter sawn lumber, such as most of the older molding planes. The figure on these planes is just too good to be hidden under grime and sweat. My preferred finish tends to be the well known witches brew. I'd say focus on the tactile feel and use whatever feels most comfortable in your hands, if the wood has something special then using some oil based option to enhance the grain is a valid reason to compromise on the tactile feel.

just my 2 c.

Zach Dillinger
12-28-2011, 7:44 PM
A thorough rubdown with a good quality paste wax is usually all you need. Every now and then, the truly grungy plane will get a wipedown with a mix of BLO, turpentine and vinegar, which will clean almost any wood.

Joe Fabbri
12-28-2011, 9:40 PM
Thanks Zahid and Zach for the replies, I appreciate the help.

Like Zahid said, the oil really does bring out the grain on some of these planes. It makes them a bit darker, but it's a very deep look that I like. But, maybe I'll try just the wax on some now, though.

Another question I have is, on one of the planes, a nice 26" jointer, there are some worm holes. What's the best way to treat these?