what are you guys using for trim saws.

[keith micinski]

I currently have a little crappy 10 inch slider from harbor freight that I use for general and rough work which is actually pretty nice. To do my fine work I have a monster 12 inch slider from Milwaukee that I got when Home depot was closing them out. I love the saw but to lug it around really stinks. What I am really looking for is a small lightweight saw that doesn't need to be a slider that I can do trim with accurately. I am wanting to hear which saw you guys use that would fill this requirement and probably the only thing out of my range would be a Kapex unfortunately.

[keith micinski]

I just found this saw and it seems like exactly what I am looking for. although a 2 inch height limitation seems a little low and I kind of didn't want a slider for accuracy but there are some really good reviews on this saw. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LS0714-2-Inch-Sliding-Compound/dp/B000AU1VJE

[Jay Jolliffe]

Check HD I bought the Makita 10 laser for around the same price.....But it was on sale....

[Peter Quinn]

I like the new Makita 10" slider. Its got some nice features they stole from the Kapex, a lot cheaper, its pretty light. Only thing is I never found Makitas to hold their accuracy when being dragged around in a pick up to job sites. For me its more of a shop saw that goes on occasional road trips, so it works great for that.

[keith micinski]

I thought Makita was kind of the go to saw for most contractors that didn't want to spend the cash on a Kapex. I wouldn't have a problem getting a 10 inch but honestly capacity is less of a concern for me since I have the other saws and portability is. I would say accuracy would honestly be my number one concern followed by portability and then finally good positive stops for the most commonly used measurements. The Millwaukee has positive stops for the degrees used to cut crown moulding flat and I really find that handy.

[keith micinski]

Also is this the 10 inch saw you guys are talking about? http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=makita+mitre+saw&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=11283062683205084027&sa=X&ei=nn36ToKWEMvDgAfQ0b2hAg&ved=0CFkQ8wIwAw

[Jerome Hanby]

I guess technically I own one of the latter day Ryobi models, but I've never actually seen it. Brother-in-law won it in a raffle and my wife bought it from him but another in-law borrowed it before she ever got home with it... But, my folks have an older model that I've used a good bit fixing things around their house and it's a nice little saw. Very accurate and the 45 degree stops are right on the money. It's a 10" and would be a little more useful it was 12" (always seem to be just a bit short cutting wider materials like laminate flooring). It's pretty light and no hassle to carry around. Think they sell for about $100. My plans for the raffle saw are just that, a carry around saw for odd jobs.

[Rich Engelhardt]

"Trim" to me is narrow.
Nothing a 10" or even an 8.25" non-slider can't handle.
I have three of them
- 10" DeWalt - excellent but (IMHO) overpriced. As much as I dislike Hitachi tools, they offer a very tempting 10" non-slider for ~ $100 less.
- 10" Ryobi
- 8.25" Delta
The first resides in my shop. The other two travel to job sites.
The little Delta is super handy, but, a pain to change blades and also a pain to dial in and adjust.
The 10" Ryobi isn't as handy, but, blade changes are quick and easy. It's so-so as far as the effort required to dial it in and adjust.

A good digital protractor and a known good set of Swanson speed squares (or go-no go shop made jigs) make dialing in the saws an easy job.
I also have a Craftsman portable miter saw stand. Sears runs them on sale for $79.00 every so often. A good solid stand with adequate in and out feed support is critical to accuracy.
IMHO - spending extra on a good stand will net you better accuracy then spending extra on a saw.

Laminate flooring doesn't require much more precision than drawing a line with a pencil and following that line freehand with a circ saw.
Only rarely is any better cut required due to the need for the flooring to expand and contract. That 1/2" or so leaves a lot of "fudge" room.

[keith micinski]

After doing a bunch of research I think I am going to get the 7 1/2 Malta. I thought about just getting a 10 inch non slider but I really like the capabilities of the small Makita and it doesn't get much more portable then that.

[scott vroom]

We use a Hitachi C10FSH 10" for job-site finish work including those complex compound cuts required on crown corners on vaulted ceilings.....the kind of cuts that make your ears bleed. I've never used a finer quality compound slider for the money (~$500). Hitachi invented the SCMS and, in my opinion, still leads the pack. Excellent laser, accurate stops. Read the Amazon reviews. At 43 lbs, it's easy to move. Hitachi also makes an 8.5" model which weighs only 31 lbs.....never used it but worth looking at.

[Paul McGaha]

We use a Hitachi C10FSH 10" for job-site finish work including those complex compound cuts required on crown corners on vaulted ceilings.....the kind of cuts that make your ears bleed. I've never used a finer quality compound slider for the money (~$500). Hitachi invented the SCMS and, in my opinion, still leads the pack. Excellent laser, accurate stops. Read the Amazon reviews. At 43 lbs, it's easy to move. Hitachi also makes an 8.5" model which weighs only 31 lbs.....never used it but worth looking at.

This is what I have in my shop. It is a pretty good miter saw. I think the only drawback to this saw is the table is kind of small by itself, but mine is mounted at the shop between a pair of Biesmeyer miter saw tables. It's actually belt driven. Dust collection is probably about average.

I agree with Scott that it does cut well.

PHM

[Victor Robinson]

Don't forget to enter Festool's monthly sweepstakes. :)*They are giving away a Kapex this month. You never know...