Fishtail chisel size

[Edward Miller]

Santa was kind to me, and gave me a gift certificate sufficient for one of the fishtail chisels from Lie-Nielsen. That leaves with the choice of size (3/8", 1/2", 5/8") and handle length (standard or long). What's the consensus on those? My inclination is to get the long handle, and that the size doesn't really matter, but is there something I'm missing?

[Stuart Tierney]

I've got 2 chisels, similar to the LN (I think).

One is 9mm, the other 15mm, both with long handles. I find myself gravitating to the 15mm more often than not, simply because it's the tails that are small in what I prefer to do, not the pins. And the tails aren't that small anyway. It's the half blind sockets that a fishtail works well on, and I've not made one of them in a long time that was smaller than 15mm, and usually much wider than that. (ok, about an inch is my upper limit!)

I also find the long handle to be nice to use, giving good purchase for the pushing/prodding/winkling (is 'winkling' a real word?) that seems to work best. I don't believe I'd find the chisels half as nice to use with a shorter handle on them.

That's my thoughts on it though. But I designed my fishtails myself and had them made to spec, so I might be biased somewhat. :D

Stu.

[Mike Henderson]

It depends on what you're going to use the fishtail chisel for. If you're going to use it to clean out dovetail sockets, then get the 3/8". In fact, the 3/8", in my opinion, is a good one to have for many uses.

Like you, I prefer a longer handle, but that's really individual. Some people feel the short handle gives them more control.

Mike

[Scott Stafford]

+1 for the 3/8" with the long handle. I've never used a mallet or hammer on a fishtail chisel.


Happy holidays!

Scott in Montana

[Jack Curtis]

Another +1 on 3/8. I had a Japanese 10mm (about 3/8) fishtail (bachi nomi) custom made for half-blinds, on the theory that it's only at the intersection of horizontal and vertical parts that I need a fishtail. It's unlikely that I'd ever make any pins/tails less than 10mm. That said, most of the time I could use one much larger and save a few seconds here and there.

Jack

[Jim Koepke]

Another vote for the small one. If there was one at 1/4", then that would be my choice.

It is easy to use a small chisel in a big dovetail socket.

It is a different matter to use a large chisel in a small dovetail socket.

jtk

[Karl Fife]

Another vote for the small one. If there was one at 1/4", then that would be my choice.

It is easy to use a small chisel in a big dovetail socket.

It is a different matter to use a large chisel in a small dovetail socket.

jtk

I just talked to Dave Jeske of Blue Spruce Toolworks. The smaller of his fishtail chisels is exactly what the larger one would be if you ground it down after many many sharpening. In other words, the fish tail portions have the same aspect ratio. The wide one's wider because it's longer.

That means if you're on the fence about size, you should get the larger one. If it turns out to be too large for your application, you can grind down the bevel until the triangle is the right width. Later if you decide you want a "set", just buy another large one. :-)

I'm about to order one.

With the chisel's flat sides, I think it will work nicely with an eclipse-style side-clamp honing guide. The Lie-Nielsen tool has a round body, so AFAIK freehand is the only option. I'm also unsure about the aspect ratios of the L-N chisels.

[Derek Cohen]

My vote goes to the smaller of the fishtail chisels. Why? Because you are only taking out the corner of the pin. There is no need for a wide chisel. Especially when it comes to "chewy", tough hardwoods, a narrower chisel will be less effort to push and cut. Lastly, with smaller pins (which is the situation when you saw multiple dovetails on the same side), a large chisel may not fit.

There are several choices of chisel that one can use to clear the corner of a pin.

The first weapon I use is my "kerf chisel (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/KerfChisel.html)", which is based on a strategy used by Tage Frid. He used a piece of bandsaw blade to hammer into the saw kerf and deepen it. Others use a scraper blade. The kerf chisel was shaped from a steel gardening trowel. When using this strategy always use a clamp and ensure the leading edge of the steel is square/blunt to prevent splitting ....

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/KerfChisel_html_m25a489f9.jpg

I have a few fishtail chisels - from 9mm and 15mm from Blue Spruce and 3/8" from Koyamaichi - and they are all superb.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Chisels/Koyamaichi%20chisels/5.jpg

I much prefer a fishtail to a skew chisel. For others the choice is the other way around. The skews from Blue Spruce are worth a look. Also worth a look is Chris Vesper's large joinery knife. This acts as a skew chisel as well (and very well) ...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=213655&d=1322143274&thumb=1

https://www.vespertools.com.au/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/resized/MINI_Joinery_Kni_4e5ef1d8af4fc_300x.jpg

Lots of choices.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

Are fish tail chisels or skew chisels more versatile?

[jean drabinowski]

Are fish tail chisels or skew chisels more versatile?
Yes

-jd





xxx

[Jim Koepke]

Are fish tail chisels or skew chisels more versatile?

It depends on what you are doing.

In cleaning out the sockets for blind dovetails the fishtail would likely be more advantageous.

For cleaning up lap joint sockets skew chisels would be my choice.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

(is 'winkling' a real word?)

verb [ trans. ] ( winkle something out) chiefly Brit.
extract or obtain something with difficulty : I swore I wasn't going to tell her, but she winkled it all out of me.

It is also a small herbivorous shore-dwelling mollusk.

So I guess it is a real word.

jtk

[Randy Karst]

+1 on the 3/8" (I have the LN, takes keen edge) and use it frequently.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Jim!