How to Sharpen Brad Point Bits??

[George Farra]

Hi Everyone

I picked up a set of brad points and well...ya get what ya pay for. I can either return them or sharpen them. I figured I'd atleast ask how to sharpen these bits before I decide to return them :)

TIA

George

[Howard Acheson]

I am not aware of a practical way to sharpen brad point bits. Sometimes the large bits (1/2" or greater) can be hand sharpened using small sharpening stones.

That said, what makes you think they are dull? I have found in my 50 years of woodworking that almost any bits can be used to drill wood. Sharpness for standard bits and brad point bits make little difference.

[Mike Henderson]

I am not aware of a practical way to sharpen brad point bits. Sometimes the large bits (1/2" or greater) can be hand sharpened using small sharpening stones.

That said, what makes you think they are dull? I have found in my 50 years of woodworking that almost any bits can be used to drill wood. Sharpness for standard bits and brad point bits make little difference.
I have to disagree with that. I've had bits that would not drill wood properly. It would take a long time to drill the hole, it would generate a lot of heat, and the hole was rough. And this is heads-to-heads comparison to a new bit - because I'd go buy a new bit when the old bit started showing those symptoms.

Mike

[Ronald Blue]

I agree with Mike that a dull bit doesn't even drill wood well. You may force it through but with all the excess pressure required you get a lot of heat, and probably blow out if its a through hole. As far as sharpening them, I inquired directly to Drill Dr a couple years ago and none of their models are able to do it. Their sister company Darex does have a sharpener with that ability. I never pursued it further so I have no idea what the cost would be. So I guess the bottom line is if you think they aren't sharp you should return them and get better grade bits. I had to drill some holes in some particle board once and I tossed that bit when finished. It was ruined when I was done.

[glenn bradley]

Another here in the camp that often wants a clean entrance and exit hole. I would return the set and spend your money on the drills you need right now and get some of a decent quality. I have a full set of MLCS bits that were so bad they refunded my money and didn't even want them back. I am slowly killing them off on yardwork projects and the like. As mentioned the larger bits can be sharpened with the appropriate tools. I use one of these (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32954&cat=1,43072,43089) and some small jeweler's files that were hand-me-downs from grandpa. The smaller bits make more sense to just replace as, if you have bought a quality bit, you will more than get your few dollars worth out of it before it is worn out. If you are used to buying packs of 10 for a few bucks then the sticker shock may require some adjustment. I have been running these (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42247&cat=1,180,42240,42247) for years without any touch-ups to date. There are other fine makers out there as well. I'm no math-wiz but, when compared to replacing lesser bits numerous times over the same period the value is quite obvious.

[Van Huskey]

Despite the fact they CAN be sharpened, I would never bother on cheap bits, you will be doing it again and again.

[Gary Herrmann]

May not be what you want to hear, but spend the money and get a some Fullers. You can cut yourself on the edge of them.

[michael veach]

I have sharpened brad points of 3/8" or larger on a grinder with a white stone and the edge cut to the angle of the spur on the bit. It does take practice.

[jared herbert]

I have sharpened my brad point bits with an abrasive wheel chucked in my dremel. the wheel is so thin you can get in and just touch up the top of the cutting edge. they will drill better than when they were new, leave a sharp edge on entrance and exit. Jarede