Glue question

[Bryan Cramer]

My computer quit so I have not been able to post lately. This might be a stupid question, but at the home center I noticed the different kinds of Titebond glue. I know Titebond 3 (green lable) is a water resistant glue, but here is the question: what is difference between Titebond original (red lable) and Titebond 2 (blue lable) besides the price? I use Titebond original for general purpose because it is cheaper.

Thanks

[Dale Smith TX]

Bryan,
A quick google search turned this up: http://www.titebond.com/news_article/11-09-21/Understanding_the_Big_Three.aspx

Titebond Original, Titebond II or Titebond III?
Titebond Original (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/product.aspx?id=d4d28015-603f-4dfc-a7d9-f684acc71207), which was introduced in 1955, is adequate for most interior projects that do not come in contact with dampness or water. Although Titebond II (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/product.aspx?id=2ef3e95d-48d2-43bc-8e1b-217a38930fa2) Premium and Titebond III (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/product.aspx?id=e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af) Ultimate also could be used for interior woodworking projects, Dale recommends the use of these two water-resistant adhesives for exterior projects – outdoor furniture, birdhouses, mailboxes, planters – that will be exposed to the elements.
Titebond II Premium came to the market in 1991 and was the first – and for a long time, the only – one-part water-cleanup wood glue to pass HPVA/ANSI Type II water-resistance specification.
Titebond III Ultimate, introduced in 2006, remains the only glue of its type to pass the more rigorous ANSI Type I water-resistance specification. Both formulations will meet requirements for exterior woodworking projects. (Note, neither Titebond II nor Titebond III is recommended for marine use or immersion in water.

I use TII for most everything, for cutting boards I use TIII.
Hope that helps!
Dale

[Bryan Cramer]

Thanks Dale! That answered my question. Maybe I should start a new thread with a poll.

[Jerome Hanby]

Not sure if it's just the one bottle or what, but I noticed that a bottle of T3 purchased more recently that the Original TB I have in the shop has separated into layers in the bottle. Just an observation based on that one bottle. I've decided to just buy smaller bottles anyway, so will probably never be an issue with me if that is a difference in the products, but based on that observation, I wonder if the shelf life is shorter.

[Jim Matthews]

If you can find it, Titebond also makes a liquid hide glue (http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=9e9995b4-08eb-4fc6-8254-c47daa20f8ed).
I find for my projects (http://woodworkingparts.wordpress.com/2010/08/17/hide-glue-and-the-titebond-advantage/) it is a much better choice. I particularly like the amount of "open time" it offers.

The only thing I find disagreeable about the product is the smell.

[Peter Quinn]

I use titebond III for almost everything. I don't use enough glue that the price difference affects me much, and I got sick of juggling several glues and worrying about shelf life and which met the standard for the job I'm on. Type III meets every standard except light colored glue lines. For interior stain grade projects in light colored wood like maple that will not see water exposure I use type I. That's a small subset of my work, so II buy Iiii by the gallon and type I by the pint.

[Ira Matheny]

I have been having a problem with my drumsander. I get 'burns' on the drum which become ugly dark brown 'burns' on the wood. Some times I can get the 'burn' off of the sanding medium, but usually I am forced the toss it.
I could not figure why I was getting this burn, until one day I was sanding some heavily glued project. It dawned upon me the problem come from the glue. I have been using TII and TIII. I am switching products to see if the glue is the culprit.
Has anyone else found this to be a problem?
BTW, this 'burn' happens on project that glued up 24 hour to 10 days. Therefore it is not just the aging of the glue joint. I have had this happen on many different varieties of wood, so I feel it is not species related.

[Jim Matthews]

I have to wonder if the heat generated by the belt is spreading a film of uncured glue over the surface.

It would be quickly cured under the pressure and heat generated, probably fusing with dust on the belt.
It might be interesting to explore this as an alternative finish, burnishing instead of applying a film over the surface.

I would suppose this would work really well with something resinous.
If you can smell the workpiece, you've generated some heat.