Scrapers?

[Mark Kelly]

I need to invest in a scraper for using to finish out bowls and such. I do most bowls 10" and less in diameter and so would it be better to buy a round-nose scraper or square-nose scraper (the ones with the one edge that is round.)? Also I see there are 1/2", 3/4" amd 1" sizes. Which would be the most appropriate? Thanks!

[Jim Ketron]

Mark I have the 1" Sorby bowl scraper. hardy ever use it now, but I do at times . I recommend getting the heaviest one you can find and grind the bevel way back and keep it real sharp.

Jim

[Steve Inniss]

Mark,
I would suggest the 1" radiused (the left half is round.) The extra thickness and length of the 1" scraper helps dampen vibrations especially when you are well out over the rest reaching the bowl bottom. -Steve

[Andy London]

I have a 1" Radiused by crown that I really love, it is big and doex an excellent job even on very small bowls, my son uses it on a regular basis for roughing as it does the job fast, never a catch and it's so thick I have never seen it chatter.

Andy

[Jim Becker]

Thicker is better...less vibration and easier to handle. A round nose or radiused is good for a first one, too. Do keep in mind that you really don't "scrape" with these tools...you actually cut with the burr that is raised when you grind them. It's a small but effective cutting edge. You'll want to learn to hold the tool for a shearing cut, too, for super results inside and out.

[Chris Lee]

I have a 1" round nose that I ground the angle back on and all the way around. I use it to get the inside of my bowls nice and smooth. It makes really fine paper like shavings.

Chris

[Michael Stadulis]

Hi Mark,

Woodcraft has 1/2" thick Crown scrapers on closeout right now. Go to their website and look at the closeout tab and scroll down. The $70 items are $45 and the $45 items are now $29.

Mike

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

Or you can make your own. Here are four that I made from 1 1/4" X 3/8" bar stock from MSL. I love them.
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<img src="http://users2.ev1.net/~henthorn/turntoo.jpg">

[Michael Stadulis]

Don, What kind of steel ? Probably not HSS correct?

Mike

[Pat Salter]

and while you are telling us what kind of steel, how about a little "how-to" for those of us that want to try. Looks like fun.

[Glenn Hodges]

Sorry to say I never learned to use a scraper for finishing. It seemed I always would get a catch. I use a heavy skew, 1.25 in., for scraping with the ends ground back to prevent catches. It is a P&N skew I bought from Lee Valley with no handle. I made my own handle to fit my hand. I can put a razor edge on it with a course diamond credit card size sharpner (I never use the grinder on my skew), and then with the bowl turning at about 700 rpm the very fine shavings to dust will come off the bowl giving me a very smooth finish on the wood. Very little sanding when using this skew properly.

[Jim Ketron]

Glenn I was having catches too, But since I built the curved tool rests I have not had one!
The scraper needs good support thats close to the work at least for me anyway;)
Jim

[Kent Cori]

I have a 1" wide, 1/2" thick radiused HSS scraper that I rely on frequently. Mine is a Richard Rafin by Taylor. Thicker/heavier is definitely better!

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

Don, What kind of steel ? Probably not HSS correct?

Mike

You are right, Mike. I used 01 tool steel because I could easily harden and temper the tools in my shop. Do it right and they are pretty durable. HSS requires capabilities that most wood workers don't have.

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

and while you are telling us what kind of steel, how about a little "how-to" for those of us that want to try. Looks like fun.

I enjoyed the process, Pat and it is very satisfying to work with tools I made myself. I bought the 36" bar from MSL and cut it into four 9" pieces. I hacksawed the 3/8" x 3" tangs and the rounded them part way. I also cut the bias on the two angled scrapers and then took the four blanks to a friend with a torch and heated over half of each blade to cherry red and then dunked it to cool in old motor oil. After it was cool I put it in my wife's oven for an hour at 400 - 450 degrees and then let it cool slowly. I got some copper pipe from HD and cut the ferules to length and then turned the handles from scrap wood I glued up. Made each handle different to make it easier to grab the right one from the sawdust. Turned the blade ends of the handles for a snug fit for the ferules. Bored the holes in the handles, knocked on the ferules and epoxied the tangs in the holes. Apply your preferred finish to the handles and begin grinding your prefered bevels on the tools. Then enjoy. Bring an old timer I had never had the pleasure of turning with heavy scrapers. Most of my scrapers had been made from old files. I really like these.

Be happy to anser any questions.

[Pat Salter]

I enjoyed the process, Pat and it is very satisfying to work with tools I made myself. I bought the 36" bar from MSL and cut it into four 9" pieces. I hacksawed the 3/8" x 3" tangs and the rounded them part way. I also cut the bias on the two angled scrapers and then took the four blanks to a friend with a torch and heated over half of each blade to cherry red and then dunked it to cool in old motor oil. After it was cool I put it in my wife's oven for an hour at 400 - 450 degrees and then let it cool slowly. I got some copper pipe from HD and cut the ferules to length and then turned the handles from scrap wood I glued up. Made each handle different to make it easier to grab the right one from the sawdust. Turned the blade ends of the handles for a snug fit for the ferules. Bored the holes in the handles, knocked on the ferules and epoxied the tangs in the holes. Apply your preferred finish to the handles and begin grinding your prefered bevels on the tools. Then enjoy. Bring an old timer I had never had the pleasure of turning with heavy scrapers. Most of my scrapers had been made from old files. I really like these.

Be happy to anser any questions.


Cool, another fun project to look forward to. I'm going to have to live to about 120 to get all these things done. :D

[Alan Turner]

Don -- When you say "cherry red", did you use a magnet to determine temperature? That is, when the metal loses its magnetic attraction, that is the time to dunk it?

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

No, Alan. I didn't use a magnet. My friend has a sandblasting business and I heated the steel next to the big open door. I figured with that amount of light cherry red would really be cherry red. Seemed to have been ok. I don't have any complaint about the chisels edge holding ability.

[Charlie Stein]

Hi Don,
I have done some work with hss. You said it was 3/8 thick,but how wide did you use. I was thinking about 1" or 1&1/2" ok?
Just Charlie :)

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

Charlie, it was 1 1/4".

[Charlie Stein]

Hi Don,
thanks for the quick reply.
Take a look at www.PictureTrail.com/c-b-woodpeckershop there you can see some of my work.
Best wishes
Just Charlie ;)

[Harry Pye]

Don,

Who/what is MSL? And do they have a web site?