Project in progress: Kitchen Island

[Todd Burch]

Hi All. I'm just starting on this project. It's a kitchen island for my Dad's house he is building. I'm actually doing all the cabinetry in house, but this is the current push.

In his house, most of the cabinets will be painted. This island, however, will be cherry, finished with boiled linseed oil and satin lacquer. Yesterday, I got the 32 1/4" wide end panels machined and glued up. They are looking pretty good so far. I'll post pictures of them later today.

The island, measured per the granite countertop, is approximately 8' 4" long and 5' 2" deep. 36" high.


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We went round and round on the style of legs for the granite overhang. We decided on tapered-4-sides legs. They will be 5" square at the top and 2 1/2" square at the base. I'll glue up 7/4 cherry, mitered at the corners, so when they are tapered, there will be no disruption in the grain.

Thanks for looking. Todd

[Lori Kleinberg]

Wow, that is a huge piece, nice design. Are you going to fill it in with drawers or shelves?
If I may suggest, if you do shelves, make sure they are the pull-out kind. I have a really deep cabinet for my center island in our vacation home, and it is a pain to get to anything in the back. One of these days I am going to convert it to pull-outs.

[Jim Becker]

Looks like a great project, Todd!!!! (And it's good to see you back on the forum)

BTW, I move this thread here into the Woodworking Projects forum where it will be best served over time as you post your progress and finished work.

Jim

[Todd Burch]

Thanks Lori and Jim.

@Lori - on the left there will be 3 drawers. In the middle, since it's the sink box, the top opening will be covered with a false drawer front that will tip out and have those small metal trays for holding scrubbing stuff. The lower part of the sink box is all open. This is "the" kitchen sink, not a secondary sink. On the right side of the face frame, there will be a full length panel that will front a pull out trash can. The 24" wide opening on the far right is for the dishwasher.

Here are the two end panels I glued up yesterday. 32 1/4" wide x 35 1/4" tall. I got a few pieces of cherry in my order (140 bf of 13/16 S3S) with some curl in them, so I decided to accentuate the lower rails of these panels and the bottom face frame rail with curly cherry.

The lower rail, 7" wide, has a filler strip of poplar just under 4" wide. There will be a 4" base board that covers it.

I just put new knives on the planer - these panels have not been sanded yet - they're pretty smooth - sanding will be an easy task on these. I recently bought the Freud Premier Adjustable Rail and Stile cutters. So far, I like them.

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Today I picked up 5 sticks (roughly 8' long) of 8/4 cherry for the legs - they didn't have any 7/4. 8/4 will work fine.

Next task - the face frame for the cabinets - (pocket screw construction) which probably won't happen until Monday. I think I can get the box together too on Monday (glue and screws) - the jigs are already made and well tested for dadoing and rabbeting the carcass parts.

Todd

[Troy Turner]

Todd- You're doing this and the closet and have room for it all going on at the same time? You da' man.

Island looks like it coming along really good! Since you said you're doing cabinets too, yeah, we're gonna need some pics of those too :)

Can't wait to see it all come together!

[Todd Burch]

Well, change in plans. Again.

I'm doing all this cabinetry for free, but yesterday I told my dad that any further changes will cost him $50 each change. :rolleyes:

Now, the legs will be painted. 8/4 Cherry will get returned, and 8/4 soft maple, painted black, used in their place. Here's the essence of the current scheme for the whole kitchen (black lacquer and oiled / lacquered cherry):


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Today I got the face frame parts for the island cut out, along with the lower corner cabinet and the cabinet to the right of it next to the fridge opening. Also got a toe-kick made for the island box.

Tomorrow, the face frame will get "KREG'ed" together and I'll cut out the plywood box for the island.

I'm still waiting on my "customer" ( :p ) to pick an interior color for the cabinets.

Todd

(stone color shown for the granite countertops is not the actual color - not even close).

[Todd Burch]

I got the island cabinet together today (it's almost 6' wide) and it's ready for primer. I can't remember the last time I made so many mistakes on a project. Thankfully, they were all correctable.


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I'm making 3 boxes at the same time, (this one and 2 others for the kitchen), so I'll get the other 2 at a point they are also ready to prime, and then prime all 3.

[John Shuk]

I'm glad to see you back and posting Todd. I was always a fan of your projects and designs. I can't wait to see the end result.

[Todd Burch]

I'm glad to see you back and posting Todd. I was always a fan of your projects and designs. I can't wait to see the end result.

Thanks John! Good to be back. Good to be back in the mode of doing woodworking projects too. ;)

[David Keast]

Splendid looking project, not many europeans have room for island units that big.

As the owner of a large kitchen island, could I suggest you round or otherwise soften the corners of the top a bit. The bruises from colliding with a wooden top when ina hurry are bad enough, granite would be worse I imagine.

[Todd Burch]

The granite tops will all have a full bullnose (1.5" diameter , AKA 3/4" radius), and no matter how round you make granite, if you knock into it - you get a bruise!

We calculated the final dimensions of the island top the other day. It will be 101" x 62 1/4". On the leg side, each "peninsula" sticks out 2" and is 10" wide. The overhang creates just under 28" of overhang.

[Todd Burch]

Well, the island is coming along - slowly. I delivered the island box last night, and got a free dinner for my efforts! Woo-Hoo! I got to the point of having too many cabinets put together at once, leaving very little shop space to turn around in, so I had to get them out of the shop. The sink box has yet to have its back cut to allow the supply lines and drain pipe to pass, and we realized last night the disposal outlet was in the wrong place, so dad will be doing all that work in the next couple days, while I start on the rest of the island and more lower cabinets for the kitchen.

The build/finish schedule for the island and rest of the kitchen cabinet boxes is:

Face frame out of poplar
Box out of 3/4" birch ply and 1/4" birch for the backs
1 coat of clawlock, everywhere, sanded w/220 fre-cut
2 coats of tan satin lacquer on the interior, de-nibbed with 280 fre-cut each coat
Interior taped off
2 coats of satin black lacquer, de-nibbed with 280 fre-cut after each coat
1 coat of satin clear lacquer over all the black
Backs applied


I didn't get a picture, but I will later, showing the nice reflection the satin black finish gives. It turned out really nice.

I've started making drawer boxes for some other cabinets (master vanities and laundry room cabinets) and once the boxes for the rest of the house are all done, I'll do the rest of the drawers in a big run. Same for doors and drawer fronts.

Island sitting in front of its final resting place. You can see its base and plumbing to the right, behind it. Box on left is the lower box for the double-oven. The upper double oven cabinet (not shown, but in that room) will make that box set 9' 10" tall. The left side of the double oven boxes will be covered with a 3/4" thick, floor-to-ceiling paneled frame. The right side of the box set will be covered in a piece of 1/4" ply already finished (black) and delivered. I'll use contact cement for that. The left side panel will be screwed from behind (inside the cabinets).
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The right end of the box has a dishwasher next to it.
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The left end of the box gets covered with a cherry panel. I won't be taping off or spraying inside the drawer box area in the cabinets for this project - I'll only be spraying the insides of the face frame for the drawer holes.
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Close up of interior. Normally, I would not have mixed colors on the interior, but I thought the interiors would be black too and sprayed the backs first. Oh well. Dad didn't care. On this box, I went ahead and made the final toe-kick integral to this box. For the rest of the kitchen cabinets, the toe-kick board (3/4" poplar) will be applied after the boxes are set.
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Thanks for looking. Todd

[Jamie Buxton]

What's your spray rig to shoot inside those cabinets?

[Todd Burch]

I'm using a Sata LM2000 RP (reduced pressure) gun, on about 4' of hoses, with a 2 quart remote pot (Devilbiss KB-555 KB II) with both air and fluid pressure gauges. I like the pot a lot, and the gun. I have longer hoses, but just haven't hooked them up yet, which means one hand holds the gun and the other holds the pot, and when needing to switch hands (and that is often inside a cabinet), it's a pain and slows you down.

I've found a way to avoid dry spray inside larger boxes. I used to shoot each panel, one at a time. That leads to dry spray on larger cases. On smaller cases, you can move fast enough to not worry about it so much.

Let's say you have a large, tall cabinet and the back is on. First, I shoot the underside of the top. Then, when shooting the 3 inside sides, I'll start, for example, on the front edge of the left inside panel, spray back towards the back panel, then shoot the back panel, moving to the right, then shoot the right panel, moving to the front edge. I've just completed a "U" shape as the first pass on three panels. Next, I lower the gun 1/2 a pattern length, and make a return trip moving from right to left, until I reach the bottom of the case, and then I shoot the bottom panel. Work's pretty good.

However, as I did on all these cases, the backs were off. (The nailers were on). The two colors makes it easy to see the delineation between the nailers and the backs.

What is your typical spray setup?

[Jamie Buxton]

... What is your typical spray setup?..

I use an HVLP, shooting waterbornes. On the good side, it is low toxicity and low explosion hazard. On the not-so-good side, it blows so much air that if I attempt to spray inside cabinets, the finish all blows back in my face. I spray cabinets before I put the back on. I make drawers old-style, where the bottom slides in from the back. I shoot the drawer box and the bottom separately, and assemble them afterwards. Those solutions work, but take extra steps, so I'm always hoping to hear of a better method.

[Pat Barry]

Todd, this is a very nice looking cabinet. You did a great job with the scale and I really like the paint. Wondering if you have been working on the legs? Curious how they are going to turn out. The first sketchup image the legs looked a bit fat compared to the face frame and ther cabinet details but in the second one (12/27) they seem to fit in with the style much better. Are they the same dimensions or did you resize them? Its going to look sweet with the cherry panel and the granite top.

[Todd Burch]

@Jamie - yes, the HVLP can blow of a lot of air. This Sata I use has a knob on the back that allows a LOT of control on the air pressure, but when too low, can result in atomization issues. No magic bullet.

@Pat - the legs are the same dims in both images - 5" square at the top and 2 1/2" square at the bottom, the taper starting 9" from the top. I think the first image is a bit exaggerated due to the field of view. The blanks are glued up (2 weeks now) and tomorrow I will cut them to length and cut the mortises, then taper.

I've figured out how to construct this thing in pieces so it can be transported and require minimum assembly onsite. Also, this approach will allow a lot of fudge on the final fitting too. In the images below, I rotated the second drawing so the legs are further away. Thy look a lot smaller in the second image.

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[Todd Burch]

Pretty good progress yesterday making the 2 legs for the island, but i hit a snag - I broke my Delta 14-650 Hollow Chisel Mortiser. :(

The day started out good. I got the legs cut to length on the tablesaw....

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and then proceeded to get out the mortiser. Oops - a 5" high leg won't fit under it. Not a problem - turn the column around!

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Things are trucking along good. But the 14-650 is a bit underpowered for the speed I want to maintain in this soft (not) Maple. Bit is jambing up all the time, even when taking shallow cuts and retracting for chip clearing. I'm already starting to think, to the tune of Jaws, "I'm gonna need a bigger mortiser..."

And then, I retract, again, and the wood rises with the chisel! That's not supposed to happen!

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Uh, oh. A peek around the back side shows the issue.

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Well... what to do... what to do.... I know - lay the foundation for a bigger machine! "Hey honey - come look at my machine... it broke. It's really too small to work with this kind of wood, and I have a couple more tables to make soon. I need a better machine" OK, that took care of that.

Now, back to the project at hand. I used a clamp to hold the stock, but MAN is this slow. I still have a jamming bit and spend time manually clearing the chips from between the bit and chisel, but now I have to reposition the clamp for every cut. Ugg.

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I finally get the mortises done, and now on to taper the legs on the bandsaw. Almost forgot to take a picture. This is the final cut (I had to bug the Mrs. to come be photographer). Since the legs get tapered on 4 sides, I tapered the first 2 opposite sides, then taped a waste piece back on and made the last two cuts.

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I cut outside the line, and then moved over to my edge sander to sneak up to the line. Sure, I could have hand planed them smooth, but this sander has to earn its keep. And, man does it earn its keep!

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So, who can point out the screw up that was occurring while I was sanding this leg? It was pretty funny, actually.

And, the final product - two legs, 35 1/4" tall, 5" square at the top, 2 1/2" square at the bottom.

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Next step - make the 3 aprons. Todd.

[Paul A. Clark]

Is that the 2nd leg riding against the drum?

[Todd Burch]

Ah - very good Paul - you spotted it. It's a piece of scrap, (luckily not the 2nd leg!), and yes, it was riding on the belt for a while before I noticed it.

[Todd Burch]

Slow progress - a lot of other things going on. The leg assembly is glued up and I got it primed. I have a little brown to shoot for the kitchen cabinet interiors, but then black will get loaded in the paint pot and the legs (and cabinet fronts) will get painted black.

I didn't have long enough clamps, so I improvised by making two cauls. The cauls are 3/4" ply scrap with poplar cutoffs glued to each end. I made two of these and handscrewed them to the middle of the long apron. Then, I used shorter clamps, alternately tightening them, to make sure each leg was pulled in tight as the glue set. I was able to use two 50" clamps on the open side of the apron assembly to ensure the thing was square.

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Primer is ML Campbell's Clawlock.

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Todd

[Todd Burch]

Still inching forward.

Yesterday I was able to glue and pin in the cherry lip moulding for the island knee panel, and spray the interiors of the last of the kitchen base cabinets.

I love applying BLO to cherry. I think it's the anticipation of what I'll be getting with the first wipe!

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A little more...

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Here's the finished knee panel. It really darkened up nice.

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Here, I'm ready to coat the last of the 3 panels with BLO. The knee panel and two end panels are cherry - the rest of the island is black lacquer.

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BLO really brings out a pretty color and the figure of wood. I mix my BLO 1:1 with thinner and typically wipe on 3 coats back-to-back and then rag off.

This afternoon - black is getting sprayed. If I get all the black sprayed, I'll then put the satin clear on top of the black, and also the cherry panels. After the clear is on, it will get delivered and dad will be ready to call the granite guy and then he will have a mostly-function kitchen. He's ready for it! (Been ready for it!)

[Jeff Monson]

Looks really nice Todd, thats going to be a wonderful island.

Just curious, the end panels are raised panel and the knee panel is frame and a flat panel with applied moldings? Is there a reason to do this, I have never paid attention to see if this is common, just curious is all, not questioning the design.

[Jim Becker]

Lovely figure in that "knee panel", Todd!

[Todd Burch]

Thanks guys.

Well, the decision on the flat panels for the knee panel was mine. Save time, save $, save effort. In this case, I think the trade off in a flat panel is that the lip moulding provides the extra dimension the raised panels would have. At least, that's my story. ;)

Just got the first coat of black lacquer applied... looking good so far!!!

I think I'm going to crank up a second gun and start with some clear on those cherry panels... but I'm out of saw horses. :( Maybe I'll use some 5 gallon buckets.. Yeah, that's the ticket - 5 gallon buckets. brb

[Todd Burch]

Well, I didn't get to finish everything today.

2 of the 3 base kitchen cabinets are done - I have to lightly sand and re-shoot the clear - I messed it up. :(

The 2 end panels have 2 of the 3 coats of clear applied - they are looking good.

The knee panel has 1 of the 3 coats applied - still sanding out the first coat.

The island leg assembly is done. Looks great.

Hopefully, I'll finish tomorrow evening - the weather should be cooperating.

[frank shic]

tood, love those double raised end panels - i'm doing the same thing for these beaded inset vanity cabinets right now. how did you sand that massive knee panel?

[Todd Burch]

Thanks Frank. I sanded it by hand. 220 fre-cut. I took me about 3 hours to sand the two end panels, the knee panel and the one black face frame I'm redoing. My fingernails are now misshapen.

[frank shic]

dangit! i knew it... that's what i'll be doing when i get around to the kitchen :( can't really shove that beast through the drum sander! looks awesome though and your fingernails will grow back anyways ;)

[Todd Burch]

Frank, I didn't say, but it normally (when things are working correctly) does not take that long to sand. But, I had 2 issues. First, the gloss coat I started with was about a month out of date. I thought it might work OK, but it did not. When they say "3 months", they don't mean 4. Second, the check valve on my remote pot was clogged... that's what I get for tipping it over the other day. Result - my spray pattern was inconsistent. Thus, all the sanding punishment.

I took 1/2 day off today to do some community service, but before I headed out for it, I thought I might get a quick coat applied. I first inspected the gun, and as I suspected, the check valve BB was glued in place with black lacquer. I cleaned it thoroughly, and then I thoroughly BROKE it when reinstalling. UGG.

In my travels this afternoon, I bought a replacement. This evening, on the verge of darkness, I got the rest of the lacquer sprayed. Turned out pretty good.

Here's an end panel. Nice even sheen. The other one looks just as good.

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Knee panel. Too bad it's the knee panel, as I think it looks good enough to be front and center when you walk in the front door!

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Here's a shot of the island leg assembly, upside down. 2 coats black lacquer, one coat satin clear. It feels as good as it looks.

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Here's a base kitchen cabinet showing the interior color. The picture was taken at a weird angle, and I rotated the image, so don't try to strain your neck figuring out how it was laying on the floor! The stick on the interior side is to support a 1/2 depth shelf... last minute change orders... I should charge for them. ;)

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So, what's left in this phase is to remove the masking paper/tape, apply the backs of the cabinets, and then deliver them. Perhaps tomorrow night, otherwise, Saturday afternoon (more realistic).

Thanks for looking. Todd

[frank shic]

hate breaking things in the shop! last night while i was sanding one of my end panels, i tripped and fell on top of it as it was going through the drum sander breaking off one of the outer stiles. guess what i'll be doing later tonight??? can't wait to see the finished product, todd :)

[Todd Burch]

Other than drawer and doors and plinth... I'm done with the island. She's installed and ready for granite. Just getting home (~12:35 AM). Client is muy happy.

Here's a shot from the living room into the kitchen.

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Another angle.

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This is the detail of how the leg assembly connected to the end panels. It worked out well. I wanted to create some interest in the footprint as opposed to just having a rectangular base. After the tile is installed, I'll wrap the bottom in a 4" base (1/2" thick cherry, with a 45 degree bevel on the top corner, finished like the rest of the cherry).

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I did a lot more work that just the island tonight. We got the long run of base cabinets screwed together. Dad can now call the granite guy (and then install his cook range, sink, and dishwasher!! Almost a kitchen! A little more work on the electrical box in the leftmost cabinet, and the double-oven can be installed.

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Posterity picture. (10' tall ceiling. 6' 1" tall Todd.)

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I'll post a final picture later after all the uppers are in, and the floor and cabinet lighting too. Thanks for following.

Todd

[Mike Svoma]

Looks great so far, Todd.

[frank shic]

agreed! todd how are you fixing the legs to the floor?

[Todd Burch]

Well, that's an interesting question Frank. The floor is so uneven, one leg, while shimmed, could still be surrounded by tile, but the other leg had to be shimmed so much due to a low spot in the floor, we could probably lay tile underneath it. My dad's laying the tile, and he's been down this road before (professional tile installed for years and years) so I'll let him deal with it.

[frank shic]

the weight from the granite countertop will probably stop most movement unless a rhino comes charging through the kitchen ;) please post more pics after the tile goes in. i love home renovations... just wish i didn't have to part-time it - a lesser woman would've left me by now!!!

[Zahid Naqvi]

Todd, it's coming along nicely. You were MIA for a bit there, nice to see you back.

[Todd Burch]

No pictures right now, but the 3 drawers for the island, along with 20 others for other parts of the house (23 in total) are now all glued up and ready for final sanding prior to shooting satin lacquer.

When gluing box joints up, it is inevitable to get glue squeeze-out on both the inside and outside of the box. Yesterday, I started the drudgery of paring out the dried glue squeeze-out on the insides of the drawers. I hate this part of making boxes. I first went to my typically-grabbed short paring chisel and started paring. However, I chose to start with a deep drawer, and the short, 4" or so, chisel quickly turned useless trying to reach deeper parts of the drawer. I like to move my chisel parallel with the joint, as opposed to paring perpendicular and into the corner.

I paused, sat back and thought for a minute about other options, and then remembered I had some old cranked necked (Marples, boxwood handles) paring chisels. I had seen it just the other day when looking for something else. I grabbed the closest one (1 1/2" wide and probably 10" long) and HOLY COW, did it ever work fantastic! Never again will I dread cleaning up glue squeeze-out inside a box again. The cranked neck style makes all the difference in the world.

Todd

No pictures of the granite that is installed, but I had some fun putting this video together.

http://youtu.be/GdeZmCi3dmo

[frank shic]

that's an awesome video, todd. have you ever considered using a manual tile cutter? i got one manufactured by rubi and it works great: no noise, no water, no electricity although it doesn't cut certain materials... was that your father or father in law helping you out? he sure looks like he's still in good shape!

[Todd Burch]

Yep, that's my dad, and my son. He is in good shape. He just turned 72. I'll be 50 this year, and my son is 21. And, I was helping him out!

Wet saw is already purchased. Can't cut inside corners with a manual cutter. Dad's been laying tile for most of his career. Most he ever laid in 1 day was 1300 sf. Now, when hits about 150 sf, he calls it a day!

[Brett Bobo]

Never in my wildest dreams would I expect to find a video posted on a woodworking site with a theme song from House of Pain-Jump Around! :) Looking forward to seeing the final product so keep the updates coming!

[frank shic]

Yep, that's my dad, and my son. He is in good shape. He just turned 72. I'll be 50 this year, and my son is 21. And, I was helping him out!

Wet saw is already purchased. Can't cut inside corners with a manual cutter. Dad's been laying tile for most of his career. Most he ever laid in 1 day was 1300 sf. Now, when hits about 150 sf, he calls it a day!

1300 sf in ONE DAY?!? he must've been flying like that video lol

[Patrick McCarthy]

Todd, great video . . . although I assume your son rather than you or dad selected the music?.

I tend to work ALOT slower than you gentlemen, despite the frequent ingestion of caffeine via coffee.

[Todd Burch]

Actually I picked the music! One of my tunes I listen to all day working from home. The first time I heard it, I was at an OU football game in Norman, OK. EVERYONE, except me and my wife, stood up and started jumping around. I thought it was so cool.

I'm hip. A little. ;)

Pat - you should see me out in the shop after a RED BULL! Don't get in my way!! lol

[Jerry White]

One of the most entertaining videos I've seen, Todd! Great project, too. Even more impressive people. Good to see you again.

Jerry

[Todd Burch]

More progress on the batch of 29 drawers, 3 of which are for the island. These 17 are ready to be delivered and installed.

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The next 12 are all 1/2 coated with the first coat of lacquer. This evening, I'll try to get them done. These are the big ones - will take longer to spray/sand. The 7 matching are 22" deep, 24" wide and 14" tall and go in the master closet cabinets (the 8th matching is already done, @ the top of the first pic). The other 5 (for the kitchen) vary from around 28" to 32" wide, and average 9"-10" tall.

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I'm not spending much time of the front and backs - the false fronts will hide the fronts and the backs will never been seen.

[Todd Burch]

UGGGG!! I hate it when I make drawers too tall!!! 4 are too tall. Tablesaw... here I come!!

[Todd Burch]

I was wrong. Only 2 are too tall. Phew!

[Jim Rimmer]

UGGGG!! I hate it when I make drawers too tall!!! 4 are too tall. Tablesaw... here I come!!

Better than too short. :D

[Matt McColley]

ooops...

not naviagating so well today.

[Todd Burch]

Wrong thread Matt!

[Jeff Monson]

Wrong thread Matt!

Yeah, but a nice mortiser!! Way to ruin a perfectly good gloat.

Todd, no pics of those installed drawers?? You must have them cut down by now.

[Todd Burch]

Yeah, their cut down, eased on the top corners, lacquered and the lacquer line is blended. All drawer finishing is now done. Next to-do, predrill for false fronts on this last batch and deliver them. Then, I need to finish the uppers, then make 5 pullouts. (Then, 2 more bathrooms, and I'm DONE!)

[Jim Becker]

Making large numbers of drawers is a thankless project! I let my friends at Keystone do that job when I'm working on something that requires a bunch of them. That said, I can appreciate the feeling of "D'oh!!" when something isn't measured quite right and some, um... instantaneous redesign...is required. Been there...done that. And will likely continue to be there and do that into the future. :D

[Todd Burch]

I probably should have called this the "Whole house full of cabinets" thread.

I have two more upper kitchen cabinets to complete (they are ready for black lacquer), a guest bathroom, a cherry buffet / wine cabinet and a master bath medicine cabinet in cherry, and all the doors and a few drawers, and I'll be done. This is taking WAY too long. (My dad would agree). I started cutting 11/11/2011.

Here is the latest pic. This is the guest bathroom cabinetry. A sink base with open shelves on the left, a drawer box on the right and a tall cabinet that sits on the counter above the drawer box. Within space constraints and keeping in harmony with the rest of the cabinetry in the house, the link following shows the bathroom it was modeled after. (I love Crown Point's cabinetry!)

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Crown Point Cabinetry Bath03 (http://www.crown-point.com/bath/script/images/large/bath03.jpg)

This cabinetry was going to be fennel green (an ML Campbell color, similar to Crown's color), but distressed with a dark brown glaze. However, I got a change order the other day that it will now be light grey to coordinate with the Carrera marble countertop, which is similar to the shower tile.

My construction approach for boxes has been birch ply with poplar face frames. Drawers are 1/2" baltic birch with 1/4" ply bottoms. 1/2" overlay cabinet doors will be poplar frames and 5/8 raised MDF panels, although dad wants some doors to be just 3/4" MDF slabs (master closet, laundry and powder room).

Todd

[Todd Burch]

Good progress today. Got 10 drawer box parts cut out, box jointed and sanded the interiors and cut the bottoms. Tomorrow, they'll get glued up.

When I first made the sink base for the guest bathroom, I installed the side panels on the wrong sides, which put the partition on the wrong side. So, dad's getting yet another garage cabinet. (2 total, so far). I installed the nailers for it, cut the back and installed a piece of 3/4" at the back bottom of the cabinet (akin to a front toe-kick, but all the way back) to close up the underneath to keep the bugs and rodents out. He has some old pine that I'll use for the face frame, drawer fronts and doors.