which brad-point bit for dog-holes (from the US)

[Matthew N. Masail]

I thought of getting this http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42247&cat=1,180,42240 3/4" bit but at 30$ plus 8$ shipping it's quite pricey...
is it worth it, or can I go with a cheaper bit? in any case is it worth saving 16$ on a cheaper bit?

Thanks.

[Van Huskey]

I personally would by a Colt Twinland but it probably will only save you about $10

[David Hostetler]

Not exactly brad point, but the SpeedBor Max bits from Irwin leave nice clean holes, just use a backer board for where it comes through, it WILL shred the back side pretty easily, but some sacrificial 1/4" hardboard and problem solved, and at least with my set, the 3/4 measures out .75" no plusses or minuses... Something to think about...

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-3041006-6-Piece-Speedbor-Drill/dp/B0026KNH3Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1324408817&sr=8-2

[pat warner]

For drill press use and short duty? Then I wouldn't sweat origin or price.
Drilling x hand? Then I'd get the best; you're already handicapped enough.

[Mike Cutler]

Drill Bits, Made in the US?

WL Fuller in Cranston RI.
If it's a drill bit, they make it, have made it, or can make it.
Very nice people, very good customer service. I have two sets of Bradpoints up to about 1 1/2", with different shanks.

[Gil Knowles]

Matthew
I used the bit from LV you are referring to for the dog holes in the bench I built last year.
It is an excellent bit and in my opinion worth the money. I debated at first getting a cheaper one,
but have no regrets in spending the money on it.
Gil

[Kirk Poore]

Why not a Forstner bit? Lee Valley will sell you a 3/4" one for $10.

Kirk

[Victor Robinson]

Another option if you want to use a router - MLCS sells a 3/4" HSS spiral upcut bit for $15.

[ray hampton]

The 1/2 bit got a flute 3 plus inches long but every bits over 1/2 inch long flute are only 3 inch long , perhaps a printed mistakes

[James White]

This bit worked just fine for me. About 24 dog holes in 3-1/2" Ash bench top. I used a guide block made on the drill press.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10613&filter=drill%20bit

James

[Matthew N. Masail]

I choose to use a brad so I can make a guide for it using the drill press, I think I'll get the Lee Valley one because I want their spokeshave anyway. Thanks all for the help. the speedbore looks interesting, I've never used one before but see the benefit in firm centering. In any case I think the brad will be useful in other applications as well.

[ian maybury]

Whatever the choice it's clear that the best drill is one that will reliably make a clean entry and exit and feed predictably with whatever set up you are using. The ability of a brad point to score before entering seems a good move in that regard. A good brand improves the chances of your getting one that is accurately ground so that it performs as intended.

A few test/practice holes using the same drilling set up and in the same material sound advisable.

I've a 3/4in Colt waiting for my bench, but haven't tested it yet.

While it was probably just me I've found the Speedbores (which I used for drilling holes in roofing timbers to run wiring) needed a fair amount of care in use. They do fine, and cut very quickly - but alignment and feed pressure seemed to need care when working by hand to stop them taking a large bite and causing the drill to kick sideways and/or feed much more aggressively.

ian

[Greg Hines, MD]

Just a suggestion about drilling out dog holes, regardless of bit. I used my router with a 3/4" bit, and clamped my router table insert to the table to plunge as far into the bench top as I could first. This left a dog hole that was about 2" deep into the top. That made for a good starter hole to finish the dog hole with a hand held drill and 3/4" bit, from Woodcraft. Then a chamfer around the edges..

[Larry Frank]

I used a 3/4" colt type bit and a 1.5 inch thick block drilled on the drill press to start the hole and keep it perpendicular. I drilled all with a hand drill and I am quite happy with them.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Just a suggestion about drilling out dog holes, regardless of bit. I used my router with a 3/4" bit, and clamped my router table insert to the table to plunge as far into the bench top as I could first. This left a dog hole that was about 2" deep into the top. That made for a good starter hole to finish the dog hole with a hand held drill and 3/4" bit, from Woodcraft. Then a chamfer around the edges..

I would love to try that, but I don't have a plunge router, just a trimmer for now. I'll have to go the way Greg mentioned, as soon as I get a drill press lol (-:

[Jerome Hanby]

I would love to try that, but I don't have a plunge router, just a trimmer for now. I'll have to go the way Greg mentioned, as soon as I get a drill press lol (-:

Plunge router might be a good investment. Funny, but most of my plunge operations don't have much to do with typical routing (plunging to cut slots for sliding bolts, plunging shelf pin holes, and soon to plunge dog holes). Most of the "router" style operations, I crank it down to depth and use it just like fixed base.

[Gary Herrmann]

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the hss lipped Lee Valley brad points are Fullers.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Plunge router might be a good investment. Funny, but most of my plunge operations don't have much to do with typical routing (plunging to cut slots for sliding bolts, plunging shelf pin holes, and soon to plunge dog holes). Most of the "router" style operations, I crank it down to depth and use it just like fixed base.

in that case maybe these type are the way to go? http://www.toolking.com/bosch-gmf-1400-ce-220-volt-2-hp-fixed-and-plunge-base-variable-speed-router-kit/ will these work well at the router table too?

Gary, just read up about the Fullers, looks good .

[Michael Wildt]

Just got an e-mail from leevalley that they have free shipping. So if you're still leaning that way you would save the shipping at least.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Thanks Michael, I ordered on the 21st - free shipping from the 22nd... talk about luck.

[glenn bradley]

Just a suggestion about drilling out dog holes, regardless of bit. I used my router with a 3/4" bit, and clamped my router table insert to the table to plunge as far into the bench top as I could first. This left a dog hole that was about 2" deep into the top. That made for a good starter hole to finish the dog hole with a hand held drill and 3/4" bit, from Woodcraft. Then a chamfer around the edges..I did much as Greg did. Use a scrap of ply as a "plate" to allow more reach for the dog holes farther back from the edge. A spacer provides consistent distance between holes. I clamp a backer when finishing the hole to prevent blowout.