Book Case Games

[Joe Hillmann]

Back in the 60's and 70's 3M made a line of game called book case games because there boxes kind of looked like books and fit on the bookshelf. This is my first attempt at making my own book case game using the wooden hinge that was shown on here a while back. The game is Quinto and is a gift for a friend. I am designing a similar one for monopoly.

Hopefully the pictures are large enough to see.



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[Ken Shea]

I'm sure their nice, the tiny thumbnail pictures look good :D

[Joe Hillmann]

Trying to get bigger pictures to show up 216569 216570 216571216572216573

[Ken Shea]

Much better, and they really do look good Joe :)

[Dee Gallo]

Neat idea, Joe! I would not want to have to clean or sand all those pieces, though... not that I should talk, I just got done making 6080 tiles and color filling one by one (some with 4 colors). But if I was making your games, I would put a lot of finish layers on the wood first to avoid work later. Are you doing these for fun or to sell?

Oh - and I love the use of the living hinge there... great!

cheers, dee

[Ken Shea]

Neat idea, I just got done making 6080 tiles and color filling one by one (some with 4 colors).
cheers, dee

OH MY and I-YI-YI Having an attention span of a new born, that would not be a good job for me, .never in a million years could I do that.

Dee. my hat is off to you on that !

[Mike Null]

Joe

Very nice work. I like Dee's idea about prefinishing.

[Joe Hillmann]

Dee. If you put a dripping wet piece of paper on the bottom of the wood before you start cutting there is no clean up necessary. I only had to do a tiny bit of sanding to remove some smoke because the paper began to dry out before it finished cutting. At the moment I am doing it just because I wanted an excuse to play with the hinge. But I think I might make them to sell. They only take about 45 minutes to cut(less if my tube wasn't crapping out on me) I think I could do them it about 20 minutes if I used 1/8 instead of 1/4 but then it wouldn't have the heft that I like.

[bryan henderson]

Joe

Would you care to share a coreldraw file of your book design, it looks great.

Bryan

[Joe Hillmann]

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It is meant to be cut from 1/4 inch ply and should snap together. The short ends that have one rounded end should have the rounded end cut off and reattatched so it is about 3/16 longer. You also have to sand the corners of the side pieces so it closes easy without binding.

[Dan Hintz]

Joe,

They still sell those (or they are selling them again)... they're just cheap plastic cases this time around. I've seen them at Target on and off for the last few years.

I like yours better... :)

[Joe Hillmann]

Dan,

The 3M games or bookshelf games?

[bryan henderson]

Joe

Did you cut the 1/4" plywood on ur 35 Watt, I have a 30 Watt CO2 laser, i think I can cut thru this still, does anyone have suggstions on some start setting/multiple passes

Bryan

[Joe Hillmann]

I cut it on my 50 watt, with a bad tube. The settings I used were power 100, speed 3, ppi 500-700 (doesn't really matter) and Q 4. If you use a 35 watt I would run at about a speed of 1.5-2. I cut it with the good side down before putting it in the machine I brush water onto the good side, till it is standing in pools on the wood, then cover it in tissue paper and brush more water on the paper (the wet paper sticks to the wood and prevents smoke damage to the wood. I also do the cutting on a table that allows airflow above and below the wood.

[Dan Hintz]

I'm not sure what "3M" games are... I've just seen the book-style games on the shelf. Monopoly, Backgammon, Checkers, Connect-4, Risk, etc.

[Bill Cunningham]

I cut it on my 50 watt, with a bad tube. The settings I used were power 100, speed 3, ppi 500-700 (doesn't really matter) and Q 4. If you use a 35 watt I would run at about a speed of 1.5-2. I cut it with the good side down before putting it in the machine I brush water onto the good side, till it is standing in pools on the wood, then cover it in tissue paper and brush more water on the paper (the wet paper sticks to the wood and prevents smoke damage to the wood. I also do the cutting on a table that allows airflow above and below the wood.

I have found that a couple of coats of rattlecan lacquer with a light sanding between them, (on both sides) then some transfer mask on the 'down' side allows cutting with no backside burn, and easy cleanup of the front side.. I usually do a 12" x 24" sheet at a time, then cut out pieces as I sell/need them. No wood warping water, or flaming dried out paper to worry about..

[Daniel Markovich]

Nice flex spine!

[Joe Hillmann]

I have found that a couple of coats of rattlecan lacquer with a light sanding between them, (on both sides) then some transfer mask on the 'down' side allows cutting with no backside burn, and easy cleanup of the front side.. I usually do a 12" x 24" sheet at a time, then cut out pieces as I sell/need them. No wood warping water, or flaming dried out paper to worry about..


Transfer mask? Like for vinyl signs?

[Bill Cunningham]

Transfer mask? Like for vinyl signs?

Yup..That's the stuff
No shop should be without a roll.. I use the heavy tack stuff, others here prefer the medium tack. It's a matter of choice..

[Chuck Stone]

I've been using 'plexi-tone' as a pre-finish and it's working for me.
Take your old clear acrylic scraps, throw them in a gallon jar and
cover with acetone. Shake it up every few hours. In a day or so
you'll have a syrup (and solid melted plexi at the bottom) Transfer
the syrup to another jar and thin with acetone to a watery consistency.
Paint that on your bare wood. Dries in seconds. Charring cleans off
easily and doesn't get rubbed into the wood, since it is now sealed.
It lowers the contrast of engraving, and that's not so good.. but if
you're going to apply stain/paint/fill to the wood this will act as
a mask and that helps.

[Joe Hillmann]

Chuck, I am going to have to try that. It sounds easier than using a poly and sanding between coats to get a smooth enough surface to paint fill.

[Chuck Stone]

Joe .. it is easier in that you can sand in about 20-30 seconds.. and it sands much easier.
Like anything, the finish you get depends on the finish underneath. This can be an effective
clear coat.. after all, it is plexiglas

PLUS .. you probably have everything you need right there .. acetone and acrylic scraps.
(I don't even peel the plastic off of the plexi.. it just falls off and stays in the jug.)
If for some reason you need it to dry slower (using it as a final finish for example)
add some butyl or propyl alcohol as a retarder.. lets the brush marks flow out.

[Joe Hillmann]

Chuck, What do you use to apply that finish, every brush I have tried melts if left in the acetone for too long and it it seems like quite a waist to wash the brush after every time I use it.

[Chuck Stone]

I use a chip brush.. then just get most of the plexi off and let it dry. The next time you dip in in the liquid, it re-melts what is in the brush. I don't clean the brush, and the plexi that dries in it holds the shape. You're right.. synthetic brushes don't handle acetone well!

[Joe Hillmann]

I will give that a try. So far I have leaving the brushes in the liquid one the handle melted and the other the glue that holds the bristles in melted.