Wood Finishes

[Reed Gray]

Michael did the demo for our club, Beaver State Woodturners, last night. He is a chemist by trade, and started making his own finishes because he didn't really like what he found out in the real world. It was very informative, and I may be switching. I learned a lot about walnut oil that I kind of knew before.

http://www.doctorswoodshop.com/

robo hippy

[Tim Rinehart]

I'm impressed...I am viewing all the videos now. Nice to have a way to get the benefits of both the walnut and carnauba together for friendly finishes. Works for me...I like satin for most of what I do anyway. I have (but haven't tried yet) some of Mahoney's walnut oil, but like the way the docs has wax combined in.
Thanks Reed!

[Ted Calver]

Although I like polymerized walnut oil, I stopped using any carnauba finishes long ago. Carnauba shines nicely but does not play well with water, leaving spots that have to be buffed out. I no longer use the Beall buffing system wax for the same reason. If Michael can demonstrate that his mix doesn't water spot, I'd give it a try.

[Nate Davey]

Thanks Reed, will it darken lighter woods like maple, would be my question.

[Mike Meredith]

Thanks for having me, Reed. That is a fun group and I really enjoyed myself.
Mike

[Mike Meredith]

Thanks Reed, will it darken lighter woods like maple, would be my question.

To answer two questions with one post, I have never seen the waterspots but i will look and try to provide ans answer about that. Maybe i just did.
I cannot say that the products don't darken maple very slightly but holly finished with the products is still bright white. In the photo gallery on my website, doctorswoodshop.com, you can see some ambrosia maple and bigleaf mapple finished with these products and judge for yourself.

[Reed Gray]

I guess the one I am most curious about is the finish oil used for sanding. I have been using the LDD (liquid dishwashing soap), and would like to avoid soaking, and was wondering about some thing that I could spray or wipe on that would penetrate the surface, dry, then sand. I do power sand, and I know that is what Dale Larson does on his bowls, just haven't tried it out yet. I wouldn't need my sanding hood. I haven't been a big fan of wax on my bowls. I don't want to take the time to spin and melt them in, besides, my bowls are so warped, I couldn't keep hands on them at more than 20 rpm.

I will most likely have a bunch more questions for you.

robo hippy

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike thanks for the PM. It was very enlightening. I like using walnut oil for both a finish and sanding lube. Like Reed I have used Mahoney's for some time and have used it a lot for sanding lube. I have contacted Mike on his website because I wanted to know the same thing if fingerprints show up the same as if you buffed it with carnuba. He said he was going to check it out.

[Mike Meredith]

Reed,
I've use several things as sanding lubricants; oils, paste wax, and soap. The LLD works as a sanding lubricant just fine. It will make a slurry with the dust and add the polishing compound aspect, just like walnut oil, so you get the faster and better sanding plus it will keep the surface cooler to avoid heat checking and allow faster sanding speeds. Soap isn't as "oily" (by definition it has a water-soluble end and an oil-soluble end)as walnut oil, so it isn't going to penetrate and stick to the wood like an oil or wax will.

Have you tried using a thin shellac as a sanding aid. A 1 pound cut shellac in alcohol sprayed onto the surface and allowed to dry will stiffen the wood fibers so they cut better with tool or sandpaper. I keep a bottle of this by my lathe for trouble spots but it could be used as a general treatment prior to sanding.

[Reed Gray]

I haven't tried the shellac. Don't have any other use for it in my shop. The LDD has done such a good job. I always figured it was the glycerine in the soap that helped with sanding. I prefer it to dry first before sanding so all the fragrances evaporate out.

robo hippy