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View Full Version : What do I need to know about Cocobolo?



Joe McMahon
12-17-2011, 3:33 PM
I've been asking a LOT of questions over the past several days and here are the reasons why: I learned to turn yesterday. I have five children (four girls) I have five grandchildren Christmas is next week!!!!!!! I am making five peppermills, five pizza cutters, five ice cream scoops and three screwdrivers ( three sons-in-law). Of course each daughter wants her own wood, so these are made in oak, hard maple, walnut, and cherry(2). I bought a piece of cocobolo and have turned that for a screwdriver. After sanding to 600, it still had scratches so I wet sanded to 12000. It now is dull, but not scratched. I have never used cocobolo before. My questions are these: Does cocobolo require any special glue or will 5 minute epoxy work? Any special prep before adding finish, any special sanding steps? How about finishing? lacquer, WOP, shellac? Sorry for all of the newbie questions but I think I hear sleigh bells coming.............

Jim Burr
12-17-2011, 3:53 PM
Congratz on all the family!!! To make sure you stay around for a long time...lung protection is mandatory for most rosewoods. USDA list Cocobolo as one of the most toxic woods around. I had a custom guitar made several years ago and the luthier asked I not request cocobolo...being an understanding sort, I let him off the hook. You should be able to polish out the cocobolo...it should cut well and need a light sanding to 600...0000 steel wool and your on your way! Wipe it down with DNA or even regular alcohol and the glue/epoxy. It takes on a great patina after using it for a while...not to much of a finish needed.

John Beaver
12-17-2011, 4:02 PM
Because of the oils in Cocobolo a lot of people do not add a finish and just polish it. (I'm surprised your 12000 did not work) I often use just a light coat of shellac or two that I buff. You can also use a wax finish. I don't recommend oils, as they usually turn out blotchy and will darken the wood too quickly.

As far as gluing, I recommend using slow set epoxy, but the 5 minute should work too. Because of the oils, give it a light scrub with sandpaper and then wipe it down with acetone right before gluing.

David E Keller
12-17-2011, 7:21 PM
I'd wipe it with acetone then buff with tripoli and wax... Skip the white diamond since it's a dark wood. I also avoid oil finishes on oily woods. Looking forward to seeing the finished projects!

Dan Forman
12-17-2011, 7:25 PM
Russ Fairfield used to say "There are two types of turners, those who are allergic to cocobolo, and those who will be allergic to cocobolo.

Dan

Ken Hill
12-17-2011, 8:12 PM
I love Coco...and a sand to 12000 micromesh and a wax polish will have it like glass. I got to see a predator call I turned over a year ago that has been bouncing around a truck all of last years hunting season, it was superb. Incredible patina and just awesome

http://kenhill.smugmug.com/Other/Calls/CMR5303/1164319639_Ymykb-L.jpg

I will do a full CA finish if wanted, but to me, if a call is going to be used alot it will look worse for wear long before one done with a simple sand and polish. I would weigh heavily on the end use as to what finish I applied

http://kenhill.smugmug.com/Other/Calls/CMR5229/1163392065_U4SFu-L.jpg

Mike Cruz
12-17-2011, 9:10 PM
I would avoid poly. It doesn't like to cure on all that oil (inherent in the Cocobolo). Micro mesh makes it look awesome! I like how Ken waxes his, too.

Joe McMahon
12-17-2011, 9:42 PM
I put a wash coat of shellac on it and it came out very nice. I plan on polishing and waxing it and be done.

brian watts
12-17-2011, 9:56 PM
KEN. that a CA finish right?


I love Coco...and a sand to 12000 micromesh and a wax polish will have it like glass. I got to see a predator call I turned over a year ago that has been bouncing around a truck all of last years hunting season, it was superb. Incredible patina and just awesome

http://kenhill.smugmug.com/Other/Calls/CMR5303/1164319639_Ymykb-L.jpg

I will do a full CA finish if wanted, but to me, if a call is going to be used alot it will look worse for wear long before one done with a simple sand and polish. I would weigh heavily on the end use as to what finish I applied

http://kenhill.smugmug.com/Other/Calls/CMR5229/1163392065_U4SFu-L.jpg

Ken Hill
12-18-2011, 6:22 AM
1st was a wax and polish, duck call was all CA. Th depth is better and gloss slightly higher on the CA bt no worries of chipping and hazing down the road with usage.

Jack Mincey
12-18-2011, 9:12 AM
I've turned around a 1000 crow calls from cocobolo and love to turn it. I might have to sand for a few seconds with 220 and then just polish it up with 0000 steel wool and it is ready for finish. Wax works but dulls over time, but since time is important when turning most of my calls for whole sell it is what I use most of the time. For a really nice finish that well last I use CA most of the time and lacquer for some of my turkey calls since CA is almost imposable to get onto them evenly. Do take precautions on your lungs and wear breathing protection when turning the stuff. It can cause a rash worse than poison Ivy so I always scrub my exposed skin with cold water and soap after turning it. Maybe the most famous crow call maker of present day stopped turning it a few years ago after having a bad reaction to it. While a rash on the skin or even in ones lungs seem to be most common reaction, anaphylactic shock is common enough to be extremely careful with it. As one is exposed to it more and more the chance for a reaction seem to increase. I keep a bottle of children's liquid benatryl in my shop just in case I ever feel my throat closing up. I've talked to two EMS workers that said it would help reduce symptoms enough to hopefully make it to the hospital in time if I ever have this problem. I also carry a bottle in my fishing vest in case anyone I'm fishing with every has a bad reaction to a bee sting.
Jack

Donny Lawson
12-18-2011, 9:17 AM
Wipe it down with acetone before and it should finish great.

By the way, Ken, that CA finish on the Duck call is Awesome.