WOP recommendation

[Joe McMahon]

I will be applying WOP tomorrow (hopefully). Since this will be my first time, any recommendations as to brand or other helpful tips? All are appreciated! Joe

[Roger Chandler]

I use Minwax wipe on poly.........have had mostly good results.

[John Keeton]

Minwax, Joe. I personally think the satin lays on better than gloss, though it does not seem to be as hard a finish. However, either works very well, and either will buff to a very nice gloss.

[Joe McMahon]

Thanks fellows! I'm off to the BORG for MinWax.

[Chris Colman]

I use the Minwax gloss. No buffing necessary.

[John Keeton]

I use the Minwax gloss. No buffing necessary.Chris, while one can achieve a very nice gloss finish with the Minwax gloss WOP, buffing results in a much more tactile finish and makes a piece "feel" as good as it looks. Applying a nicely buffed Renaissance wax top coat adds even more to that result. I would highly recommend buffing your work - it will make a huge difference for you.

[Justin Stephen]

Chris, while one can achieve a very nice gloss finish with the Minwax gloss WOP, buffing results in a much more tactile finish and makes a piece "feel" as good as it looks. Applying a nicely buffed Renaissance wax top coat adds even more to that result. I would highly recommend buffing your work - it will make a huge difference for you.

I agree. It looks very nice after 5-6 coats of gloss WOP, but the tactile difference after buffing makes it worth the extra effort.

[Chris Colman]

Chris, while one can achieve a very nice gloss finish with the Minwax gloss WOP, buffing results in a much more tactile finish and makes a piece "feel" as good as it looks. Applying a nicely buffed Renaissance wax top coat adds even more to that result. I would highly recommend buffing your work - it will make a huge difference for you.
Sounds great! I have never done much buffing, and don't know much about it.

What kind of wheel should I use? I assume something soft.

What do I charge the wheel with? Buffing compound? Or Renwax?

Any information will be helpful. My learning curve needs to be extended...

[John Keeton]

Chris, in some instances, I will make my last coat of finish the gloss. Most will wait a week, but I seem to get better results while the finish is not fully cured, so after a day or so, I will wet sand the piece with mineral spirits and 600 or 1200 depending on the quality of the last coat, and then rub the piece with 0000 steel wool. I use the Beall buffing system, but there are others. I think the wheels in the Beall system are flax (used for tripoli), 50/50 flax/cotton (white diamond), and all cotton for wax (I use Renaissance wax, not the carnuba that comes with the system).

Spend most of your time gently buffing with the tripoli. It is like sanding - if you spend most of your time with the 150 grit, the rest of it goes much quicker and the result is much better.

Hope this helps.

[Rich Aldrich]

I just started using WOP and buffing with tripoli, white diamond and rennisance wax the last few months. The look and feel so much better than to salad bowl finish that I was using. I need to experiment with more finishes.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Joe - I use the Minwax Wipe-On and have been happy with the results for many years. Everyone has their own way of doing things, so maybe what I do will help you get the finish you are after.

Application process that I use: Once the form is complete and sanded I remove it from the lathe and apply the first coat of poly. For this first step I use a 1" sponge brush and try to saturate the wood just like I was using a Danish oil finish. Be sure to wipe off any excess after letting it soak into the wood for a few minutes. I let that dry for 24 hours and check for coverage. If the poly was absorbed into sections of the form, saturate the form once again and wipe off the excess.

After waiting for at least 24 hours to let the saturated coat set up, you can then apply the first of many thin coats. I use a paper towel folded up to make a small pad, wipe on a thin coat and let dry for 3 to 5 hours, depending on the temp and humidity. Usually the thin coats dry really fast because they are so thin and should never be thick enough to cause a run. If you miss a spot – try not to go back over as it will lift the existing wet poly. Just make sure to hit the missed spot the next time. The process is more like a French Polish as far as applying the thin coats. I normally apply 2 or 3 coats this way before doing the first light sanding using either a super fine sanding sponge or 600 grit sand paper just to knock off the nubs. I repeat the procedure until I have the level of finish (or gloss) that I want - usually 5 to 7 thin coats.

I find the Minwax Wipe On works great when real fresh but starts to dry up as soon as the can is opened. It’s nothing more than regular Poly that has been thinned down so it will flow better and dry faster. When you notice it get thicker (and darker in color) - just add a little mineral spirits, shake well. The finish will take longer to dry at that point and is usually when I go purchase a new can!

Also, I know that some folks use a base coat of de-waxed shellac instead of saturating with poly. Seems to work well but I do not have any experience using shellac.

[Russell Neyman]

Steve's note about the opened can thickening is a good one. A small, but valid tip: Buy your finishes in the smallest possible can sizes. Or, at least, buy a large can re-bottle them into smaller jars, storing the smaller units in the upside-down position.

[Mike Cruz]

Joe, here is my experience with poly: First of all, remove all dust from whatever you are finishing...:o

Second: Poly has a mechanical bond, so you need to sand between coats to create something for the next coat to grab onto. 600 grit is fine. If you can dip the piece, do it. After dipping, hang it so that a corner or edge is where the excess is dripping off. For about 20 minutes or so after dipping, you'll need to tend to the piece. At some point, while the excess is moving to that point where it is dripping, drops will stop...well, dropping. But you will get a 1/2 drop. Take a paper towel and gingerly dab it off. Keep doing this until no more of those 1/2 drops form. With each coat, change the corner or edge that allows the dripping.

Third: If you want a satin finish, don't use satin with each coat. Use high gloss for every coat except the last one. The reason is that the way they make satin is by adding particulates to the poly. Many coats of satin will dull the finish in the sense that you lose the richness and depth of the wood, as opposed to taking the shine off.

Fourth: Use oil based poly, not water based. Water based poly leaves a blue hue to the piece, and in my opinion is the worst look you can give wood. If a water based poly is the only kind you can get, pass on it.

Fifth: Wear gloves, or make sure you have some good solvent for your hands. The stuff doesn't come off easily. Soap and water does little to get it off.

Best of luck to you with your project. Hope this has helped...

[Joe McMahon]

Would sanding with maroon mesh accomplish the same as the 600 grit paper?

[John Keeton]

While the directions for application of WOP call for sanding between coats, I have not had any difficulty with adhesion on turned objects when omitting the sanding between coats. After the first coat dries, one can usually lay on additional coats every 3-4 hours. On flatwork, or in situations where the piece was a utility piece, I think sanding is a good idea. Not sure about the maroon mesh.

[Mike Cruz]

Joe, I too, I have no idea about the maroon mesh. The object is to make scratches for the poly to grip...

John, I have applied poly on the putters I make, and also have had no issues (that I know of) with ones that I didn't sand between coats. But they call for sanding, so I do it on everything that I apply poly too, now. One other thing the sanding does is to get out any bumps that you might get. However, the bumps are usually caused by not getting the piece clean before applying the poly, or dirty poly...

[Joe Landon]

I use Minwax gloss applied with a cotton square torn from an old tshirt. I rub with 0000 steel wool between coats.

[Jim Burr]

Glad I caught this...I'm having a heck of a time with using MW WOP. I have the fast dry gloss...applying with a brush. It is going on way to heavy so I'm changing to a foamy...If I could re-chuck the thing and cut off the finish, I'd love too...can't on this piece though. This stuff has a learning curve to it and I'm guessing the thinner the better

[Rob Price]

I used to make my own wiping poly by diluting with mineral spirits. The commercial wiping poly usually costs more for less finish. I've gotten away from it recently- I don't have the patience to wait days between coats, and I feel like lacquer sands and rubs out better- but I spray mine and have to wait until the weather is right to spray outside. I like that I can repair lacquer down the road as well. maybe that doesn't matter for art pieces. But after a poly finish of mine exposed to sunlight started to yellow and crack I quit using poly unless it's kids furniture which needs the extra protection.

The only water based finish I've used is General finishes wood turners finish and I like it a lot. No smell. Dries fast (no dust nibs) and sands/rubs very nicely. I've only used it a couple of times but I like it. No blue tint, and the wood keeps its depth better than other water based finishes I've seen. I wonder if it will yellow like regular poly.

But I'm also a pre-novice compared to he guys around here. To me, part of the fun is experimenting with different finishes as they all have pros and cons.

[Prashun Patel]

Yes, the thinner the better, Jim. That is, up to about 50/50. Then it's diminishing returns.

The first coat will not build; it seals. I'd use a foam brush for that. Bubbles, drips, runs are not an issue on this coat.

For subsequent coats, thinning and wiping it on with a shop towel is the easiest way.

You turners tend to like the built-up look, but if like me you prefer the hand-rubbed (in-the-wood) type look, you can get a very touchable surface by wetsanding each layer of finish into the wood and then wiping it clean. In fact, you can even add a little BLO or tung oil to the mix to extend the open time. These kinds of finishes don't require any buffing at the end - but you'll be hardpressed to get a piano-gloss sheen also.