How to check a used 18" bandsaw prior to purchase?

[Gary Pennington]

Looking to get a bandsaw to resaw up to 10" oak. There's a Jet JWBS-18 for sale about 2 hours away that I'm going to look at this weekend. It's several years old but hardly used. It was purchased to set up a shop the never happened so essentially it has sat since unloaded.

I've read the recent threads regarding the older square column saws not being able to properly tension blades over 1/2". How would one go about checking this on a used saw? Could you use a dial indicator with a magnetic base mounted on the table indicating the upper guides--then tension the blade looking for deflection? How much deflection is too much? Anything else I should be looking at or another method for checking tensioning?

Thanks, Gary

[Todd Davidson]

You may want to check out this thread from last week:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176936-Delta-14-quot-Band-Saw-VS-Jet-18-quot-Band-Saw

[Gary Pennington]

You may want to check out this thread from last week:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176936-Delta-14-quot-Band-Saw-VS-Jet-18-quot-Band-Saw

Todd,
I did read yours and the other thread on the subject. I can't imagine that EVERY saw is useless with a 3/4 blade, there must be a straightforward method to check out a saw without being a metallurgist.

[David Castor]

I recall that Mark Duginske's Complete Guide to Bandsaws book has a good section on evaluating used bandsaws.

[Neil Brooks]

There was also a VERY recent issue of FWW (last couple months), exactly about evaluating and buying used machines.

[David Kumm]

You can use a dial indicator to measure deflection. The Jet is unlikely to properly tension a 3/4 carbide Trimaster. My ACM 18 that had a 12" resaw and was made in the 1990's could tension a 1/2 trimaster but that was the top end. The ACM was a heavier saw than the Jet. You can resaw depending on the blade and set up but if you will be doing much of it you are better served with a MM16,MM20, ACM 18-20, etc. Dave

[Van Huskey]

Todd,
I did read yours and the other thread on the subject. I can't imagine that EVERY saw is useless with a 3/4 blade, there must be a straightforward method to check out a saw without being a metallurgist.

The problem is it is a design flaw, all of them had the same square spine made with the same steel. I say it is a design flaw because they just can't tension blades the specs say they can. If you do get it I would suggest a 1/2" or 5/8" spring steel blade like the Woodslicer from Highland, Bladerunner from Iturra or Kerfmaster from Spectrum supply, their thin backer makes them easier to get up to tension without killing the spine. I consider a good one a $500 saw if you understand the limitations and plan to work within them. An older Delta 28-350 is a good alternative, 20" wheels, 12" resaw and they are plentiful (since tons of them were sold to schools) and are a $600-700 saw in good condition. Many of them have been re-motored and I have seen everything from 1/2hp to 4 hp motors in them so you have to be careful, a LOT of them originally came with 3/4hp motors. When shopping and pricing the Jet keep in mind you can get the 17" Grizzly G0513P 2 hp for ~$950 shipped lift gate and it is fully capable of tensioning a 3/4" carbide resaw blade.

[Roger Chandler]

Gary,

I have a Jet JWBS-18X which has the square column.......and the 1.75 hp motor. I have used 1-1/4" x 1.3 tpi blades on it without any problems.........I get the tension I need with it, and have no drift issues with the blade either. I have resawn 12" x 60" logs on this with a resaw sled I made, and have also done resawing on 12/4 boards........no issues! My saw does taper to larger down at the base..........I don't remember if the original one did not taper to larger at the base.

Mine uses the 137" blades, while some of the original uses 133" blades. I do not think that makes any difference. I think if you get the saw adjusted correctly you should not have any issues.

[Van Huskey]

Gary,

I have a Jet JWBS-18X which has the square column.......and the 1.75 hp motor. I have used 1-1/4" x 1.3 tpi blades on it without any problems.........I get the tension I need with it, and have no drift issues with the blade either. I have resawn 12" x 60" logs on this with a resaw sled I made, and have also done resawing on 12/4 boards........no issues! My saw does taper to larger down at the base..........I don't remember if the original one did not taper to larger at the base.

Mine uses the 137" blades, while some of the original uses 133" blades. I do not think that makes any difference. I think if you get the saw adjusted correctly you should not have any issues.

Maybe there is a difference in the saws, the one I tuned up for a friend couldn;t get proper tension on a 3/4" carbide blade without the frame flexing enough to bring the guide post out of vertical by several degrees. I am further surprised since even my MM20 is getting near to bottoming out its spring to properly tension a 1.25" Resaw King and it is one beefy saw.

[David Kumm]

Keep in mind that the rash of design changes in steel bandsaws the past ten years are due to resawing difficulties. Most saws have been re engineered and strengthened. The increase in resaw height has caused some of that as well as the tension problems grow exponentially with added resaw height. In addition the lennox carbide blades need much higher tension than a woodslicer but last longer. This past week I have seen a restored delta 20" and a nice looking Northfield 20 for sale in the $1000 range. That comparable would put the Jet in the $500 range in my world. Dave

[Gary Pennington]

Thanks everyone for the feedback, I'm getting the picture but have two questions. Please understand that I'm a hobbiest building furniture at an unhurried pace so I'm not concerned with fast throughput on a given machine.
1-What are the drawbacks to using a 1/2 or 5/8" blade. Does the quality of cut suffer versus a properly tensioned 3/4? Or is it just sawing at a slower pace.
2-What happens when you saw with a blade that isn't tensioned tight enough?

Thanks again, Gary

[Roger Chandler]

not enough tension will create blade drift where the cut goes off line either left or right..........some adjust their fence to compensate...........I would recommend that you get a Timberwolf blade..........it is made of Sweedish silicon steel, which requires less tension.........about 1/3 less or maybe 1/4 less. They are a premium blade, but do a great job, and if your spring is weak in the saw, it will help on the tension issue.

I use a 3/4" Timberwolf as well as a 1.25 " blade [ Olson] on my Jet 18" bandsaw..........and a few times I have used a 1/2 inch.........none cuts as good as the timberwolf. I also have a 14" bandsaw with a Timberwolf blade...........they just flat out cut!

[David Kumm]

A good 1/2" blade tensioned correctly will resaw just fine. A 1/4" blade on a good saw with tension will resaw up to about 6-8" just fine. The wider blade compensates for other issues but isn't really necessary. Dave

[Gary Pennington]

A good 1/2" blade tensioned correctly will resaw just fine. A 1/4" blade on a good saw with tension will resaw up to about 6-8" just fine. The wider blade compensates for other issues but isn't really necessary. Dave

Thanks Dave. I'll either go with this Jet or a Griz 17". We have to move whatever I get down a full filght of stairs to my basement shop. Fortunately it's a straight in and out made of 2X material so don't have to be concerned with turning corners or damage to the steps. Thinking the older saws you and Van mentioned will be so heavy I'd never be able to get it down the steps.

Thanks again, Gary

[Van Huskey]

A 1/2" blade will do fine for resawing just not quite as smooth a surface as a wider blade but there are diminishing returns. I suggest you use one of the hardened spring steel blades I mention above, they are thin so they take less absolute tension, have minimal set which requires less power and saves wood. They are very sharp but do dull fairly quickly but are fairly inexpensive especially if you get the Kerfmaster from Spectrum (they all appear to be the same bandstock). Some people have good luck with the Timberwolf blades but there are a lot of people (search) who have had weld issues as have I. The TW blades are high silicon steel which are very sharp to begin with but dull faster than carbon blades but hold their edge longer than hardened spring steel, they are conventional blades with thicker backing and more set so in my opinion would be less ideal for the Jet and your task.

[Gary Pennington]

A 1/2" blade will do fine for resawing just not quite as smooth a surface as a wider blade but there are diminishing returns. I suggest you use one of the hardened spring steel blades I mention above, they are thin so they take less absolute tension, have minimal set which requires less power and saves wood. They are very sharp but do dull fairly quickly but are fairly inexpensive especially if you get the Kerfmaster from Spectrum (they all appear to be the same bandstock). Some people have good luck with the Timberwolf blades but there are a lot of people (search) who have had weld issues as have I. The TW blades are high silicon steel which are very sharp to begin with but dull faster than carbon blades but hold their edge longer than hardened spring steel, they are conventional blades with thicker backing and more set so in my opinion would be less ideal for the Jet and your task.

Van,
Thank you for the detailed blade info. I've read your Blade 101 post several times and highly value your insights.

Best, g

[Van Huskey]

One other note, I didn't mention since you said you would not be cutting contours, the Woodslicer et al blades are horrible for contour cutting due to their minimal set. The is no "gap" for the back of the blade to turn in after the teeth pass, so the bind and heat up an ruin the blade in no time. What makes them good for one prevents them from being good at another task.

Also, thanks for the kind words.

[David Kumm]

I would look at the 1/2 Lenox Trimaster and a bimetal 1/4 as my two go to blades for just about everything on the saws you are looking at. Industrialblades.com is a good place to look. Dave

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Gary, I have an 18" Jet. I find it to be a great saw! I recently resawed 10" maple with out difficulty. I use a 1/2" woodslicer and have no reason to change. It cuts very smoothly, minimal kerf and hasn't wondered yet.I don't ever cut super thin veneer but I do most other typical tasks with this bandsaw.

A great surprise for me is the dust collection works pretty well too! The only thing I dislike is how you have to adjust the lower guides. Total pia if drastically changing blade width.By the way, I love this saw!

Salem

[Gary Pennington]

Thanks Salem. Good to hear from another happy Jet user.

[Paul Symchych]

Agree with Salem right down the line.
My Jet 18" has done everything it's supposed to. I've used Timberwolves up to 3/4" but 1/2" is more versatile and resaws just as good. Currently I have a 5/8" x3tpi Olson and frankly was surprised to really like that inexpensive blade.
Lower guides are a PITA but worth the fiddling with to get them adjusted right. A big piece of lacewood gave me big troubles because I was lazy in setting up the lowers. Otherwise I've resawn a variety of hardwoods including mesquite and olivewood logs into veneers with ease.