Outfeed table ideas for saw with rear fence guide

[jason mowery]

I've got a Ridgid R4511, the granite top saw, which I've upgraded with the Biesemeyer clone fence and rails that the comparable Craftsman saw sold with. It's a direct bolt on and a HUGE improvement to the factory Ridgid split rail and fence system. The saw is now all the saw I'll ever need and I couldn't be happier with it's accuracy, power, weight (no vibration, not tipable). -Also installed one of the ginormous safety switches from Rockler, which is super handy.I'd like to build an outfeed table, but I've yet to figure out how to make it work with the rear fence support angle there. I'm sure others have overcome that obstacle, just curious if those of you that have could share pictures or suggestions. Thanks in advance for your help!

[Bruce Page]

Jason, It might help if you can show a picture of the rear setup that you have.

[glenn bradley]

Two ideas as a Beis user . . .
1. Use the rear rail as an attachment point.
2. Make it free standing and build storage into it.

I went with option 2.

[Ben Hatcher]

I went with option 1, bolted the outfeed table directly to the rear rail. I have a contractor style saw and wanted longer rails in addition to the outfeed table. I looked at various options for rollers that supported the longer table and thought that they were all too expensive. I decided to build a 4'x4' torsion box for the base which was big enough to support the saw, the extended rails, and the outfeed table. I cut 6" holes in the bottom corners of the torsion box to allow the casters to be placed on the under side of the top skin. Two toggle clamps contact the floor to prevent movement.

To mount the saw at the desired height and allow dc ducting, I ditched the legs the saw came with and replaced them with a simple plywood base. I similar box covers the router in the right hand wing.

[Dick Brown]

Hi,
A number of the aftermarket fences have a small block of UHMW on the bottom side that runs on the table and no rear rail. I have one of each and prefer the rear rail but have free standing outfeed tables. One table has 12 drawers (indispensable) and the other is supposed to be an assembly table but does double duty as a planer stand and sharpening center. Also on casters so moveable.

[Von Bickley]

My out-feed table is also my assembly table. Mine is free-standing and works fine for me.

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[Jerome Hanby]

That's the solution I'm planning too.


My out-feed table is also my assembly table. Mine is free-standing and works fine for me.

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[Jay Maiers]

This guy has a pretty nice solution:
http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking.htm
That said, I'm working around the same issue with a rolling out-feed / assembly / general work table :)

[Ray Newman]

Several years ago, I built a modified New Yankee Workshop work table: http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0207 (http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0207)

It is modified to suit my needs and shop space -- 72” w X 44” d.

Wth the dolly wheels up, it does not move due to mass and four heavy duty furniture levelers. The levelers allow the table to be leveled with the Uni-saw and the right hand extension and accommodate any discrepancies in the concrete floor. They also keep the end grain on the legs from absorbing any moisture from the floor. www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2053&filter=furniture leverlers (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2053&filter=furniture leverlers)

The corners are rounded for safety.

Top is inexpensive and easy to find ¼” tempered Masonite screwed in place, durable, and easily replaced. Paste wax prevents spills from soaking in.

Need to rip a wide panel or a full sheet of plyw’d ? Just lower the dolly wheels and turn the table. Its length fully supports an full sheet of plyw’d.

[jason mowery]

Thanks for all the input, I think I'm going to pattern something after the one the guy with the older Ridgid saw made. Thanks again for taking time to post!

[Dave Wagner]

Since I have limited space in my garage to store my table saw, I keep everything within the footprint of the saw.

Today, I just finished a small extension to my old table saw, and will add another section that hinges off this one that drop down behind. It also flips up for access to the motor/belt, It has stop blocks when in the down position.

I also kept a 1" gap for the rip fence bracket that clamps down on the back of the top.

The board hanging on the side is my sled.

Thanks. :)

[richard poitras]

I just recently got a new saw and built an out feed table. What I did was built a table with a storage shelf on the bottom for extra space. But as far as the table itself it is totally mobile. I use a pallet jack to move the table around and it has leg levelers on each leg for fine tuning it to level and to attach it to the saw I just use a pair of toggle clamps. That way when I want to move it I just undo the clamps and jack it out of the way. I am sure you could use wheels with a double locking system as well along with the clamps.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/jTPCf0GjUPh-srPRF3enWAaC9Y-saAubP4bDb8OVNP3nDhhHwhjw3mxee94SAxghLq9s77hPO-UFLTL9yABVif8M0nJxZSdIiL4kzWS_K6tr8wgVwIvvGvXjloP2 nRZ_eKSYfnRsiYekMBd5KIzpsmQ-

[Kevin Dube]

I had the same problem more or less because I have an Excalibur fence which requies a real rail for the fence to ride on. While I thought this would be a temporary solution, this has been this way for a few years and has worked out fine.

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The flipable outfeed rests on my workmate freely, and is affixed to my TS with two support pieces fastened to the left and right side of my Unisaw below the table saw platten.

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It flips up...

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Or can flip down.

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[James Hamilton]

I like that Dave!