Need help with old DeWalt RAS

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Tomorrow I may be purchasing an old DeWalt RAS. The gentleman said it was a 10". The saw itself has blue paint (from the ad) and resembles the smaller AMF "green" version (8.5" IIRC). His father bought new and it has been sitting relatively unused for 20+ years.

It appear (from the small photos) to be in good condition. 1st - Does anyone know anything about this saw (sorry no year or model#)? 2nd - If anyone knows what this is, would you know the value of it in good working order? I have been looking forward to purchasing a decent RAS.

Thanks.

215634215635

[Dave Cav]

You can get a lot of information at the Old WoodWorking Machine web site, OWWM dot ORG, and there is also a ton of archival information in the Vintage Machinery web site, Vintagemachinery dot Org. However, please be advised that we don't do apprasials or suggested prices over at OWWM.

From what I can tell from the pictures it looks like an early 50s vintage, and if it hasn't been abused it should be an excellent saw. If it hasn't been restored, however, it will probably at least need new bearings in the motor, and probably in the carriage as well. If you can get the nameplate info (the it can be seen on the column in the left picture) you can get a lot more info.

Dave

[david brum]

That looks like a GW series saw in fantastic condition. You can get year of manufacture from the first two digits on the serial number on the motor. That should be a good compromise for a home shop. I'm pretty sure it has an 18amp motor, so you shouldn't have any power issues. Just bring some buff dudes to help you load it. That's a lot of cast iron.

Value seems to depend on how plentiful they are in your area. Typical prices seem to be in the $150-250 range in my area. Make sure to leave room in your budget for a low or negative tooth angle blade. The blade in the picture looks too aggressive and could give you trouble.

[Cary Falk]

I think it is a GW series. THe knobs look wrong for a GWI (which I have). The guard look wrong for a GW. I think it is a GWH. It looks to be in great shape. I am not sure of the horsepower, maybe 1. All of the round arms are considered great saws. If the ways are tight and smooth across the full travel and the motor runs you're in good shape. It's just a matter of how much horse power you want and what you want to pay for it. I paid $225 for my 1.5 hp GWI. It was in great shape and I never see them come up on CL.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Thanks guys. I am going to take a look at it later today. He is asking $50 so I think I have already decided that I will take it.

[Neil Brooks]

Buy it, now.

Figure out if you need it, later.

Fifty bucks is cheap, cheap, cheap -- even if it needs to be rebuilt -- an easy-enough DIY project (trust me: if I can do it .....).

[Jerome Hanby]

Ditto. For $50 make it a dedicated dado and/or crosscut station!

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Buy it, now.

Figure out if you need it, later.

Fifty bucks is cheap, cheap, cheap -- even if it needs to be rebuilt -- an easy-enough DIY project (trust me: if I can do it .....).

Exactly my thinking. However, 3 months ago I just completed a miter saw station. I am going to have to rip it down to incorporate the RAS. The crosscut ability is what I really want.

[rick bear]

I have a similar looking Saw - GW6. It is rated at 1hp. I also own a GWI rated at 1.5hp. I find the 1hp is easy to stall. The extra .5hp is helpful. Something to think about.

Good Luck - Rick

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=4422

[Myk Rian]

You can get a lot of information at the Old WoodWorking Machine web site, OWWM dot ORG,
Better off going to the DeWalt RAS forums. http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start?lgnJR=1
F (http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start?lgnJR=1)or $50, I'd buy them all day long.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

I picked it up last night. The saw is in excellent condition. It actually came with the original bill of sale - 1955 for $391 - which i may get laminated. The guy I bought it from said his dad and a buddy bought it to make cabinets after the war. The business did not take off so the saw has had relatively little use throughout its life - no rust though, and everything moves smooth.

Because I already have a miter saw station I will mount the RAS directly to the bench next the the SCMS. I will just need to reinforce the bench in that area to prevent sag. The bench itself is is bolted to the wall.

Honestly, the thing just looks cool. I am a history buff so I feel I now own and can use a part of the past.

Hey, is there a market for the stand? I am not looking to make any money. I just do not have any room for it. Maybe I will hold onto it for a while in case the RAS is not for me (which I highly doubt).

[Cary Falk]

Model number and HP please. Oh and better pictures. I love these old DeWalts. I would keep the legs until you decide you if you want to keep the saw.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Model number and HP please. Oh and better pictures. I love these old DeWalts. I would keep the legs until you decide you if you want to keep the saw.

Cary,

I will get photos of both the saw and the bill of sale after work. Maybe I will even post pics of the 8" jointer that I am picking up today - paid $250.

[Kevin Presutti]

Cyrus,
The tag is there, on the post, located at the top, left rear. The tag has all the information and at OWWM this infor is very helpful. Some models are more sought after than others but any one complete and running is worth having. Scoop it right up and get yourself the "Mr. Sawdust" book by Wally Kunkle. Great story and a ton of info. Best of luck!

[Neil Brooks]

Honestly, the thing just looks cool. I am a history buff so I feel I now own and can use a part of the past.

I know the telltale signs of one who has just drunk the Kool-Aid :D

Congrats !!! I think you did very, very good !

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

I know the telltale signs of one who has just drunk the Kool-Aid :D

Congrats !!! I think you did very, very good !

Might I add that the Kool-Aid is delicious!

[Neil Brooks]

You'll have to decide, over a bit of time, how you want to play this. Mine's a 1956 (MBF). Even though it, too, showed virtually no rust, I couldn't help but think that .... 50+ year old grease (bearings), 50+ year old switches, and 50+ year old wiring (insulation, especially) ... couldn't really be good (, now could they ?).

So I tore mine down (https://picasaweb.google.com/neil0502/1956_DeWalt_MBF_Radial_Arm_Saw?authuser=0&feat=directlink) and rebuilt it.

I don't know if conventional wisdom says you "need" to do this, but ... it might be on your long to-do list ... just for fun, peace of mind, or the learning ... one day.

Be very careful, incidentally. There's something particularly addictive about these saws.....

[Myk Rian]

For the age of the saw, I would at the very least, remove the carriage and check the bearings and ways.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

For the age of the saw, I would at the very least, remove the carriage and check the bearings and ways.

Yeah, that is the first thing I plan to do once I get it mounted to my miter saw station. Actually, taking the motor off before mounting will make the job easier and get me half way to changing the bearings.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

You'll have to decide, over a bit of time, how you want to play this. Mine's a 1956 (MBF). Even though it, too, showed virtually no rust, I couldn't help but think that .... 50+ year old grease (bearings), 50+ year old switches, and 50+ year old wiring (insulation, especially) ... couldn't really be good (, now could they ?).

So I tore mine down (https://picasaweb.google.com/neil0502/1956_DeWalt_MBF_Radial_Arm_Saw?authuser=0&feat=directlink) and rebuilt it.

I don't know if conventional wisdom says you "need" to do this, but ... it might be on your long to-do list ... just for fun, peace of mind, or the learning ... one day.

Be very careful, incidentally. There's something particularly addictive about these saws.....

Neil,

Thanks for the pics. Replacing the wiring form the get-go is probably a smart thing to do.