Friction Polish and other miscellany

[Chris Studley]

Hi All.

I am new to "the Creek" such that while using various threads as guidance/advice over the past year since taking up turning(again after several year hiatus since HS woodshop) I have finally joined. Newbie Alert...

My question is regarding Friction polish. Please correct my assumptions below if needed as they are based on google searches etc.

It is my understanding that "Friction Polish" is simply shallac/DNA/BLO in equal parts, or at least the homemade version is. Since DNA is usually the solvent being combined to disolve the shallac flakes, is the recipie calling for shellac that is already mixed(premixed or home mixed) or flakes?

I guess i could shorten my question to this...

I have some premixed, canned shellac (Bulls Eye), and I'd like to try out this friction polish recipie. Do I need to add the DNA portion to further thin the premixed or would I need to simply add the BLO? This would obviosly imply a 2/3 to 1/3 mixture.

I'm sure there are purist who would never use a premixed shellac and I'm happy to read, (and likely follow, eventually) the widom that these folks would share.

[David E Keller]

I'm not sure about adding the BLO to the shellac... The shellac straight out of the can will give you a nice finish although it's not as durable as polyurethane or lacquer. The BLO might pop the grain a bit more, but I can't think of a reason to blend the two. If you've got a particular project in mind, we might be able to give you a little more input into what finish and why. I've used that same canned shellac with good results, but I generally mix my own so that I can use super blonde flakes... I get less of the amber color with the homemade version, and I like to mix it a bit thinner than the canned stuff.

[dan carter]

You are talking about what used to be referred to as French Polish. You are correct, use 1/3 each of the Bullseye Shellac, boiled lindseed oil , and denatured alcohol. I've used it for many years, but I find that as it is handled, the shine is diminished. To offset that, I use pariffin wax burned in as well on top of the french polish. It makes the product have a deep shine, it feels good to to touch and handle, and helps the chatoyancy to really show up. I think it holds up better to the oils and moisture from humans handling it.

[Sid Matheny]

IMHO about every Friction polish is OK only it the piece is not going to be handled very much.

Sid

[Chris Studley]

Thanks... I appreciate the input. I prefer to apply finish on the lathe and have used mostly BLO and/or paste wax. I prefer a dull satin like shine but sometimes I'd the wet look for the grain to pop. The idea of friction (or French) appeals to me because it seems easy to apply. I appreciate the note about its limits. Other suggestions are always appreciated.

[Bill Bulloch]

Use the Bulls Eye dewaxed shellac out of the can to mix your French Polish. Apply it with the lathe running -- many, many coats, you'll like the results. Or try this" Apply a generious coat of BLO with a paper towel while the lathe is running, then spray a little shellac on the paper towel and apply it while the lathe is running. Repeat this several times until you have good coverage (I apply six or seven coats) always make the shellac the last coat. This will seal the wood and give you a very good shine in-its-self for a piece that will not be handled very much. If it is to be handled a lot, then the next day apply a few coats of WOP lightly sanding between coats.

[Jim Burr]

Traditional friction polish is a mix of shellac and bees wax...I use Mylands but there are others. As long as the item won't see much handling, it is a good finish.

[Chris Studley]

Thanks again all...

having used shallac (applied off the lathe) I have found some woods, like Padauk or Zebrawood, and especially their end grain to be "thirsty", thus leaving a textured(for lack of a better word) type surface. The shine of the shellac can make this seem to be imperfection. Several coats with sanding between seems to do the trick but is more time consuming than I'd like. It is likely that some finishes are better for some woods than others.

The shellac based friction/french polish would seem to help accelerate this process by at least shorting the drying cycle(s) and making the finish easier to apply. I don't want to expect more from a finish than it can really deliver.