Which type of hollowing system works better ?

[Joe Watson]

Been looking at different types of hollowing systems.
Seams like the two most popular are "Articulated Arms" or "Captive Bars"

For those people that have used both or know someone that has, whats your/there opinion ?

Heres a link with a few other kinds if anyone is interested.
http://www.svwoodturners.org/Handouts/HollowingSystems/HollowingSystems1.html
(http://www.svwoodturners.org/Handouts/HollowingSystems/HollowingSystems1.html)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v93yUSMzzTA&feature=player_embedded
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[Gary Max]

Joe there's not really one right answer to your question. You have to look at your goals and equipment before buying, having a fat wallet also helps.
Safest bet------buy both-----:D

[Joe Watson]

My goals are simple, waking up to tomorrow is good enough for me :)
My current equipment: 12" swing 42 between centres 1/2HP motor (small Rikon lathe).

No right answer because its a personal preference thing or depends on how deep you want to hollow or something else ?

Why would a person want one or another ?
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the two ?

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[Jim Burr]

Been looking at different types of hollowing systems.
Seams like the two most popular are "Articulated Arms" or "Captive Bars"

For those people that have used both or know someone that has, whats your/there opinion ?
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Which ever fits your style of turning. I'd venture to say they are all about the same in resu;t, just different in how you get there. Kind of like a car, they all get you there but no two are the same.
That being said... Monster is my favorite.

[Steve Vaughan]

I agree to what your style is and what your preference to turn might be. I'm working with a Monster look-a-like right now and have just recently gotten to use to make a few things. I used information from here to make my own and have really enjoyed it. I'm looking to make the captured style with a bit larger bar in order to make a little larger and deeper stuff.

[Roger Chandler]

I have used both............I took a test drive on the Jammieson captured system at a symposium......I own the monster articulated rig..........the issue has usually been depth of hollowing without excess chatter.............I solved that issue with a larger boring bar made to fit with my monster rig..........now I can go 18 inches easily.........also more if I have a newer and bigger bar made..........the length of your bed on the lathe determines the limit to some extent.

The articulated system is smooth.........the bearing joints make for ease of use, and removes the torque from the process that would normally be transferred to the turners hands and wrists. ..........hope this helps.

[Curt Fuller]

Joe, for a small lathe like you're talking about, either an articulated or captured system should work just fine. Even the Easy Hollower, Sorby, and all the other hand held clones work well once you get the hang of it. Mostly it's about becoming familiar with the system you're using. And that takes some practice. I think the main advantage to the captured and articulated systems is the ease of using a laser for measuring wall thickness. But even then there's a knack to that and it requires a lot of monkeying around with the laser pointer every time you adjust or change cutting tips. I'm kind of an old school type that thinks you should learn how to do things the hard way, in this case hand hollowing, first to understand and appreciate the advantages of a captured system.

[Hayes Rutherford]

Joe, another system to consider for small lathes is made and sold by Don Derry. As far as what system works better, that could cause some arguments. One way to go about choosing is simply decide whose well known hollow forms most represent the forms you will be getting into and find out what they use.

[Bill Wyko]

I use a Keith Clark system but you could easily spend more on the hollower than the lathe itself, I did. There are a lot of tutorials out there on how to build a system yourself. You may consider that as an option.
Here's a link.
http://www.theokspindoctor.com/

[Ronald Campbell]

Joe I currently have two systems, the Jammieson style captive D handle and the Carter Hollow Roller. I have been using the Carter Hollow Roller for almost a year and it is just so easy to set up compared to the D handle. I started with both on my Rikon 75-100 and have moved to the 3520 and the Hollow Roller is wonderful on it. You will some day move to a larger lathe and want to easily move your hollowing tool to that lathe. The Roller system is so smooth and you can follow the contour of you piece and feel the high an low spots. Take a look at the Hollow Roller and see what you think. I have gone to 14 inches but it is recommended to go to 8"

[shaun gardner]

I hollow on a delta 46-460. I use a tool from paul crabtree. toolsbycrabtree.com I have the 5/8 in hollower. Hollows to 5.25 effectively. Thats getting close to the max depth without a steady rest in my opinion. Its not a captured system. You can use it to also turn bowls. I suggest you look at it. He has youtube videos that show the use of the tool. No laser but a spring that you use to set as a depth gauge. Cost about $220.

[Joe Watson]

Thanks all for the links, suggestions and info.
Ive done a couple HF using a Sorby #851H (http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Sorby-851H-Medium-Hollowing/dp/B004HZJYA6) tool and it was tough on the arms after 3" deep along with other difficulties for a first time user - but getting better.
I do plan on using the hand held more, but have plans on making a hollowing system - just do not know which direction i want to go.
If i end up with something that will have swivels, i was thinking about roller-blade wheel bearing; quick peek on amazon shows $25 for eight, the rest of the system i should be able to get the metal from work or might have laying around here.

Anyway...
Still open for options, opinions and ideas.
Thanks again.