what's a good natural food safe oil that won't go rancid

[Brian Ashton]

I've got a large bowl that I need to put some protection on but intend it to be used with food so I'm looking for an oil that won't go rancid. Other information: can't get pure tung oil in australia (at least not unless I pay a fortune for it) and I pretty sure mineral oil isn't available either. Got any suggestions

[Marty Eargle]

I have used a walnut oil and beeswax mix for a few salad bowls and it worked quite well. Not sure if the walnut oil you would find in a grocery store would be good for this...I got oil that was meant as a wood finish.

[Steve Trauthwein]

Mineral oil.

[Joe Herrmann]

Either Mike Mahoney's Walnut Oil (available from most major on-line/mail order catalogs) or a nut oil based finish called "Preserve" are what I would recommend. I got the "Preserve" from Hut Products and I believe that Packard sells it as well. Both good stuff.

[Prashun Patel]

You can use most any finish including varnish. Just make sure it has cured before contacting food

[Greg Just]

check a health food store for walnut oil.

[Brian Libby]

I have used walnut oil (from grocery store) but there is that slight nut allery issue. I use mineral oil from the grocery store . It is in the pharmacy section.(mineral oil from a veterinary is better and usually cheeper)
But as Prashum said ALL finish is food safe once it has FULLY cured.

[Roger Chandler]

I would think that Behlen's salad bowl finish would be a good way to go........I have a can.......just have not had a chance to use it as of yet.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use Mahoneys walnut oil on most of my utility items and have not had a problem or complaint of food allergies. I also use polymerized tung oil and antique oil on some with no complaints. I tried the salad bowl finish and after a 2 or 3 yrs it started to get gummy so quit using it. We use our bowls and plates almost everyday.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I have used mineral oil on spoons, spatulas and other turned items meant for use with food. Works great, is cheap and is easy to reapply.

[Curt Fuller]

I have used mineral oil on spoons, spatulas and other turned items meant for use with food. Works great, is cheap and is easy to reapply.

+1 on this. The key being the ease of re-applying. Anything you use will deteriorate with use, but it just takes a minute to wipe a little mineral oil back on with a paper towel.

[Dave Ogren]

Olive Oil does not go rancid. If you want a build up mix it with Bees wax.
Good Luck,

Dave

[Peter Blair]

In a double boiler I melt beeswax and mix it with about 1/3 food grade mineral oil I get a the local grocery store. Easy to apply and food safe. This finish gives a really soft touch and makes the items really nice to hold.

[Larry Marley]

In a double boiler I melt beeswax and mix it with about 1/3 food grade mineral oil I get a the local grocery store. Easy to apply and food safe. This finish gives a really soft touch and makes the items really nice to hold.

Peter, I like your method. many predissolved bees waxes contain turpentine. Yuk!

[Peter Blair]

Great Larry and I like your method of making a bowl. At one time I was doing some wood and soapstone carving and I did as you suggest. I just removed the parts that were not part of bear or whatever!

[Thomas Canfield]

Grapeseed oil, available at health food stores, works well for a food safe finish similar to walnut oil. It does produce a little more luster. I got put onto this by Mesquite woodworkers in the Texas Hill Country, Fredericksburg, Tx several years ago. I put on a thick coat with paper towel and let soak for 5-10 minutes and wipe off for 2 or 3 coats. I have done this with good results on Mesquite, Bradford Pear, and Sycamore.

[Joe Pfeifer]

If you can't find mineral oil, try looking for paraffin oil ( same thing, different name). Try looking in the pharmacy for it. In the US, I always find it interesting that the butcher block oil that is "food safe" mineral oil is 3x the cost of the mineral oil that is sold as a laxative. Olive oil does go rancid .