Router Table Plans

[Larry Browning]

I know there are lots of router table threads on SMC. So what's harm in one more?
My next project is going to be a proper router table. I really like the Norm's NYW version 2 plan, and I think I want to build mine based on that plan. So this post is directed to those of you who have built one from those plans.

Here are my questions:
1) What modifications did you make to the original plan that you really liked?
2) Is the $90 hardware kit from Rockler worth the investment or would I be better off getting the hardware as needed.
3) Is there anyone willing to loan me your copy of the plan (hopefully with your notes attached). I will mail it back to you!

Thanks!

[Stan Mitchell]

Larry I built the NYW #2 a couple of years ago and am very satisfied with the overall design. I didn't make any significant design changes. I did add 3" swivel casters to make it mobile.

Didn't buy the hardware package - shopped around and paid significantly less for the parts needed.

Didn't buy the special size drill bits for making the router bit trays either. Just drilled 1/4 and 1/2 inch holes and used a round file to loosen them up a tad.

That said - I am considering getting the INCRA LS fence system and will need to build a new top so that the router plate and miter slot orientation go the other way. I'm not hot on the idea of modifying the current table with a section that hangs out the back.

Sorry, don't think I have the plans anymore.

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[Larry Browning]

Didn't buy the hardware package - shopped around and paid significantly less for the parts needed.

That is sort of what I was thinking.

Looks like you did a great job on it. I really like to contrasting colors. Is the top made for 2 pieces of 3/4 material?
I have seen a few designs that had the table top mounted on hinges to allow for better access to the router. Do you think that is a good idea?

[Jerome Hanby]

That is sort of what I was thinking.
I have seen a few designs that had the table top mounted on hinges to allow for better access to the router. Do you think that is a good idea?

Think that really depends on the router and any lift you might install. If the lift (or the router itself) is setup to allow above the table adjustment and access for changing bits (and possibly collets and collars) then I don't think the top really needs to be hinged. If you are going to have to get down there with the router to change bits or make adjustments then hinging the top will save a lot of wear and tear on your back and knees.

[Stan Mitchell]

If the lift (or the router itself) is setup to allow above the table adjustment and access for changing bits (and possibly collets and collars) then I don't think the top really needs to be hinged.

Totally agree. Having a router lift negates the need for a hinged top.


Is the top made for 2 pieces of 3/4 material?

My top is made from 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF - but I think the plans call for 5/8" or something. I already had some 3/4 - so that's what I used.

Router table projects can be a lot of fun because of all the variations possible and personal preferences. They can get a bit expensive though depending on how fancy you get.

[Paul Steiner]

+1 for the NYW table. I searched google and smc NYW was the only good set of plans I found. I used a rockler surface and hardware. The NYW table is great, great design, great storage, and it looks really nice if you make it out of oak or pine or plywood.

[Ralph Butts]

Larry I just recently finished a modified NYWS v2 router station. From the very beginning I never intended to use the table that is specified in the plans. I have a BD ci table from Rockler. My other modifications include slightly reducing the dimensions by about an 1 1/2 length and width to support the top, modifying the height to match a ready made nook adjacent to my sliding table saw and I used a BD Pro router lift I already had from a previous setup. One modification I still intend to make is to change the dust collection port for the carcass from the 2 to 4 inches. That will also allow me to get rid of the various fittings to make the 2 inch connection and simply use a standard 4 inch dust port. I am toying with the idea of mounting a modified baby feeder but I am struggling with finding a way that does not require me to drill the ci table.

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[Tom Clark FL]

I know there are lots of router table threads on SMC. So what's harm in one more?
My next project is going to be a proper router table. I really like the Norm's NYW version 2 plan, and I think I want to build mine based on that plan. So this post is directed to those of you who have built one from those plans.

Here are my questions:
1) What modifications did you make to the original plan that you really liked?
2) Is the $90 hardware kit from Rockler worth the investment or would I be better off getting the hardware as needed.
3) Is there anyone willing to loan me your copy of the plan (hopefully with your notes attached). I will mail it back to you!

Thanks!

OK, so I didn't build mine from Norm's plans, but would like to address your questions anyway if I may…

1. Why purchase plans? Build yours any size and height you want, and make up your own improvements. Build it using your own favorite construction methods.
2. I did not use a lift. They were not available 25 years ago when this one was built, and I still see no reason for one. I didn't even use a plastic or aluminum plate. I wanted the top to be smooth. Never a regret.
3. Why have a huge empty hole in the center? The router needs a lot less space and the extra space can be used for more storage.
4. Why have a door at ground level? A drawer would be a lot more convenient.
5. $90 for parts? I used five sets of 22" slides @$3each, nine inexpensive handles, and one $5 hinge. Guess I am cheep.
6. My top is 3/4, but doubled in strategic places so is would stay flat.

Sorry for butting in, but these thoughts just crossed my mind when reading your post. Anyway, best of luck with your project. Having a great router table is one of the best additions to any shop that you can make.