Waterlox - Oh, Dear. Help!

[John Piwaron]

I've learned a truth about Waterlox - the way I've used it, it isn't waterproof. If ever it is. :( I learned this by setting a bowl on the top of my new desk, and when I removed in 15 or 20 minutes later, the wet bottom had left a ring on the surface, and this ring was raised woodgrain.

So, in light of the fact that my desk is in it's installed position, I have to take care of this in place. I've already lightly sanded the ring (600 grit) to get back to the smooth surface and have put two additional coats of Waterlox on to cover all that up.

So now I'm looking at top coating the horizontal surfaces with something that *will* be waterproof. Maybe poly, maybe Behlen's rockhard tabletop varnish. Maybe a waterbase product.

Given that water penetrated and raised the grain, would a waterbase product cause trouble for me? Poly or tabletop are o.k., but both are kinda viscous and tend to give a thick plasticy look that I don't care for. Could they be thinned and wiped on yielding the desired close to the wood look while simultaneously giving me the needed waterproofing?

Help!

[Jim Becker]

The only coating you could use that is truly "waterproof" is epoxy resin. All varnishes and other film finishes commonly used have some "window" that they will "protect" you from water, but they all will eventually do exactly what you describe. All are permeable. Polyurethane varnish, as much as I hate it, will provide you with about the best water resistance (resistance is the right word here) for a table surface like this as you can get without resorting to two-part finishes.

[Bob Noles]

"Polyurethane varnish", as much as I hate it, will provide you with about the best water resistance (resistance is the right word here) for a table surface like this as you can get without resorting to two-part finishes.
Jim,

A dumb newbie question for you to field.... I this the same product as wipe on Poly?

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

Wipe on only refers to the fact that it's been thinned to a consistency appropriate for...wiping on. ;) You can make your own and save big bucks. Pick your favorite oil-based polyurethane varnish. Thin it 50-50 with mineral spirits. Wipe it on your project using a lint-free cloth or towel. Don't worry about missing a little piece...you will get it on the next coat since you need to put on many, many of them. (If you normally brush on 2-3 coats, you'll generally be using 10-12 wipe on coats for a still thinner, mark-free surface) Repeat in about 15-20 minutes. If you have to break for the day/night, then you need to carefully and lightly sand with 320 before starting more coats the next day. Otherwise, your poly will not stick to the previous coats properly. (A "feature" of polyurethane varnish not present in other types...)

You can do the same thing with alkyd and phenolic resin varnishes, too. Easy application and generally great results.