Recent Projects for Guild Attempt

[Jim Tobias]

Recently I applied to get into a Craftsmen Guild that covers the Southeastern US. It was a two part juried process involving photos of work in May and then a live jury at the guild's fair in late November. I made it past the first stage of the jury process but did not get in the guild at the final stage. They accepted 20 of 80 applicants. At first, I was very disappointed because I spent a lot of time and effort on the projects. But, I came to the realization that I gained invaluable experience going through the process and will tuck that away and try again next year. The jury is different each year, so it is the "luck of the draw" but at least a fresh start each year. I asked for feedback and found out that I needed to narrow my focus for the "live jury" to demonstrate one style of project. The projects themselves require a lot, but also there is so much that goes into the booth....lighting, layout, presentation, arrangement, etc.
Originally I was hesitant to give this a go, but after doing it(even though I did not get in this time), I gained a lot and have no regrets.
I also found a fantastic photographer that does "object photography" at what I consider to be a resonable rate. I now have some great shots for my website.
Here are pictures of the projects that I submitted.
Thanks for looking and although they are finished, any criticisms are still welcome,
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[Jim Tobias]

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[Jim Tobias]

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[Bruce Page]

Jim, I love your work and your choice of woods.

The only critique I would offer you is that the dovetails look machine made on the small chest. Thin handmade dovetails would be more impressive to a jury.

As they say, if it were easy, everybody would be doing it.
Good luck next year.

[Don Jarvie]

That must be one exclusive Guild. Those pieces look very good to me. I'd like to see how the members pieces compare to yours and see how much better they are.

Keep up the good work.

[Jim Tobias]

Bruce,
Thanks for the kind words. You are right abut the dovetails. The fact is , they are machine made(Leigh). I have yet to go down the road of hand cut dovetails. Maybe that would be a good side road to take soon.

Don,
Also, Thanks for the kind words. This Guild(Piedmont Craftsmen)http://piedmontcraftsmen.org/mediums/wood/ (http://piedmontcraftsmen.org/mediums/wood/) is very difficult to get in. I have seen a lot of the work online and in person and I'm not at all ashamed to have missed out the first time around.

Jim

[Pat Barry]

I don't understand how what you have shown us doesn't represent a single style. They are all beautiful boxes and I would have thought that was narrow enough focus in itself. What did they want to see, just ones with rounded profiles?

[Don Wacker]

Im a jury member of a similar cooperative. One thing to ask yourself when looking at your finish product. "Is there anything that I could have done a better job on" if yes then you probably should redo it. Machine cut vs hand cut dovetails are usually not and issue especially for more modern designs. Watch the grain and the joints need to be close to perfect use a straight edge to check the joints. Look at your finish under very bright incandescent lights, no sand marks or scraper marks.

Don

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I DO take it all as constructive thoughts that might make the next project better.
I try to be very careful with sanding and joinery, but need to look at all aspects as I make another attempt.
Thanks again for the feedback,
Jim

[Mike Skees]

Beautifull !!! Great workmanship and design.

[George Gyulatyan]

Jim, these are gorgeous!
Love this handle.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=215049&d=1323275216&thumb=1

Would sure love to know how you made it. Wonder if you have any step-by-step pics?

Thanks,

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks , Mike and George. I appreciate the positive comments.
George, I don't have pics, but the I made the handle in 2 parts and then glued to gther. I took the bottom piece of ebony and routed a cove on both sides(I actually routed this on one longer piece of ebony and then cut this piece off to the length I needed). I measured and drilled holes for brass rods before I began shaping the piece. After that, I cut out the curve on a small bandsaw and the rest was shaped with small inflatable drum wiht sanding sleeve. This smaller one, I use on my drill press and I can't count the times I used it to shape small pieces. The spalted maple piece was cut on the small bandsaw the same way and then shaped the same way on the inflatable drum sander on dril press.
After that, some small wood dowels to connect the 2 pieces and then a lot of fine sanding(hand and "star" sanding flapper on drill press.
I am away from home for a few days, but can take some pictures whne I returen of what the process was like if you think it would help explain.

Jim

[George Gyulatyan]

Thanks Jim, I think I got the general idea. One last question: how are the brass rods held in place? Epoxy or is there some kind of additional mechanical reinforcement?

Thanks again. Your work is very inspiring.

[keith ouellette]

Well; I guess I will never be able to get into a guild. Not only is my work no where near your level but I didn't even understand your explination of what they wanted from you. Heck. I can't even spell explination correctly and I'm to lazy yo look it up.

Those are some beautiful boxes though.

[Jim Tobias]

George,
The brass rod is held in place with epoxy. The handles are not so much "hard" as time consuming. If you just don't try to sand too fast with the small (2" diameter)inflatable drum sander, you can shape it to whatever you like.

Jim

[George Gyulatyan]

Jim,

Thank you for the responses. Very much appreciated.

George