Grizzly g0690/1 owners...

[Sam Joyce]

I bought the fence that is supplied with the Grizzly g0690 cabinet saw as an aftermarket add on for my used uni. I got the thing installed easily enough and am quite happy with it except for that fact that when I go to lock it down at any given postion, the front of the fence (end opposite the locking mech.) lifts up off the rail at least an inch if not two. Doesnt affect performance but it is a little annoying given that evrything else is perfect. Have any of you guys experienced this phenom and if so have you done anything about it?

[Cary Falk]

All Biesemeyer and clones are like that. The only time it is a problem is if you attach a feather board to hold down a board. If that is a case then put a quick clamp on the back end.

Edit: I gues I did not read close enough. Lifting of an inch or 2 is extreme.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Something sounds bent to me. Mine doesn't do this. Definitly not on the order of inches. I will check when I get home.
Salem

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I checked mine. It doesn't rise up a bit. My guess is the weld that holds the fence to the clamping mechanism is not square. Sounds like it is greater then 90 degrees.
Salem

[John M Bailey]

I have a go691, my fence does not do this, it does not move at all when locked down.

[jim mills]

You just can't get any decent help these days.

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[Johnnyy Johnson]

Hi Cary...I have a Biesemeyer and it does not lift up when locking it down.

[Cary Falk]

Hi Cary...I have a Biesemeyer and it does not lift up when locking it down.
I read that they do a little bit. The Delta T2 has a clip on the back of it to preveint it from lifting. I have a Shop Fox Classic and have not tested it.

[Matt Day]

Mine doesn't doesn't lift up either. Could you post some pictures of your setup? I wonder if your front rail is mounted too low or something.

[Sam Joyce]

I didnt think it was normal for it to lift but this is my first direct experience with a beise style fence. The problem is only when actually locking it down. once its locked it stays firm. The manual i got of the grizz website states that the front rail bracket should be mounted 3/16 below the table top, which it is. That seems to be about right as the clearance from the bottom of the fence to the table is about an 1/8. The lock mechanism itself is not overly tight/tough to clamp down but it doesnt seem to take much pressure to get the end to lift. I will post some pics.
Thanks guys.

[Kyle Kaldor]

My fence will lift off the table slightly (maybe 1/2") when locking down the clamp lever. If I were you I would adjust the clamp pressure down a little bit. It might be that you are having to push the lever too hard causing the end of the fence to rise up.

[Michael Roland]

Did the fence you purchased include the wooden template for setting the rail height? Maybe the front rail which holds the tube is a bit too low?

[Jim O'Dell]

I have a 691 with the fence you bought, and a Biese fence. The Griz fence does in fact lift at the outfeed end of the fence when locking down, unless you lock it slowly. The fence doesn't seem to move whichever locking speed is used. My Bies fence on the other hand has never lifted. I tried to make it lift after I got my 691, and couldn't. I think part of it is the Biese fence is heavier, thicker walled steel, and therefore takes more effort to lift the back end. I have played around with mounting a clip off the back end of the Griz fence to keep it down, but since it doesn't affect the accuracy of the fence, I abandoned the the project. Just wasn't worth it. Now, if when I start building stuff more consistently and it bugs me more, I'll buy a set of long rails and move the Biese fence back and forth between the two TSs as needed. Jim.

[Sam Joyce]

No template but the rail is set at the specified height. Is there a way to adjust the pressure required to lock the fence down? The only way I can see is if you back off the alignment set screws but they are already backed off as far as they go while maintaining proper alignment. In the last pic it doesnt look like its up by much but it's about an inch.


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[david brum]

I have an older Shop Fox Classic fence which doesn't rise in the back. That won't stop me from making suggestions though! It seems like there are three possible solutions.

First, if the fence is actually touching the front table edge when you lock it down, it could be levering itself in the air. If that's the case, you could try raising the front horizontal tube and see what happens.

Second, if that doesn't work, you could try shimming the horizontal tube so that it tilts slightly forward. You would shim between the tube and the L bracket, maybe with blue tape.

Third, you could call Grizzly service and ask about getting a new fence. As others have said, it's possible that the fence lockdown wasn't welded properly.

[Daniel Berlin]

No template but the rail is set at the specified height. Is there a way to adjust the pressure required to lock the fence down? The only way I can see is if you back off the alignment set screws but they are already backed off as far as they go while maintaining proper alignment. In the last pic it doesnt look like its up by much but it's about an inch.


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The only way to adjust clamping pressure is with the alignment set screws (page 66/67 of the g0690 manual), but i'm not sure what you mean when you say "they are already backed off as far as they go while maintaining alignment".

In particular, as long as both are equal, the alignment should stay the same, so you should be able to back them out as far as you want as long as you back both out the same number of turns.
I would back them out literally all the way, put them in just enough to clamp at all, and see if problem persists. If it persists, something is very wonky (maybe they are at a bad angle to the rail for some reason, which causes them to push the fence *up* instead of just laterally). If problem goes away when you do this, slowly tighten both the same number of turns until you are happy with clamp pressure.

[Ken Deckelman]

No template but the rail is set at the specified height. Is there a way to adjust the pressure required to lock the fence down? The only way I can see is if you back off the alignment set screws but they are already backed off as far as they go while maintaining proper alignment. In the last pic it doesnt look like its up by much but it's about an inch.



I can't tell in the picture, is the machined side of the rail towards the saw?

[Rob Holcomb]

I have the G0691 and fence that comes with it. Mine never raises as high as your picture shows. Maybe 1/16th of an inch at most and that only happens when it's hard to lock down and that is caused by sawdust that gets caked in there after a lot of cutting preventing a smooth lockdown. I just blow it out with my compressor and that fixes any issues.

[Sam Joyce]

Both sides of the rail are machined on my setup. While aligning the fence to the mitre slot I found that one set screw had to be several turns tighter then the "other". The "other" screw is just ever so slightly putting pressure on the flex bar, therefore I consider this as loose as I can make it. Dave thats a good idea about trying to shim it. Might be able to tell in the pictures but the rail actually tilts down away from the table which, if not the cause, could be exasperating the problem.
One other thing. I just found that the tape supplied with this fence system is off by almost a 16th over 24 inches. Did you guys have good luck with yours and am I likely to have success with a replacement or should I try and get a higher quality tape somewhere else?
Thanks again

[david brum]

One other thing. I just found that the tape supplied with this fence system is off by almost a 16th over 24 inches. Did you guys have good luck with yours and am I likely to have success with a replacement or should I try and get a higher quality tape somewhere else?

I threw mine away and replaced it with Starrett tape. It's more accurate, crisper and has smaller increments. It's also metal backed, so it doesn't stretch when you're applying it.

http://www.amazon.com/Measure-Measuring-Adhesive-Backing-SM412W/dp/B0007ZR4PM/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1323232566&sr=1-2

[Joseph Tarantino]

sam, is the square guide tube "square" to the table top? in the first pic, it looks like the top surface of the guide tube is not parallel to the table top. if the top of the guide tube is sloping away from the saw, when the fence locks onto the guide tube, it would assume the plane of the guide tube causing the end of the fence furthest away from the locking mechanism to rise up from the top of the saw, sort of like a teeter totter.

[Sam Joyce]

I took the rail tube off and checked the L bracket for squareness. At certain areas along its length it is but in others it is very much out of square (obtuse), more than an 1/8th over 2 1/2 inches. Is this normal? The fence wasnt cheap so you would think it wouldnt be within tolerance with these measurments.

[Joseph Tarantino]

I took the rail tube off and checked the L bracket for squareness. At certain areas along its length it is but in others it is very much out of square (obtuse), more than an 1/8th over 2 1/2 inches. Is this normal? The fence wasnt cheap so you would think it wouldnt be within tolerance with these measurments.

doesn't seem normal to me. if the angle iron bracket isn't a perfect 90*, and the guide tube is a perfect 90* and is bolted to the angle iron, the fence will assume the attitude of the angle iron when it is clamped to the guide tube. if the angle iron angle is greater than 90*, that would probably cause the rear of the fence to move up and away from the table top.

[Sam Joyce]

Shimmed the outside bottom edge of the bracket. It took six layers of masking tape but I got it almost perfectly flat and the fence no longer lifts up when locked. If anyone else has this problem this seems to be the solution.