Thoughts on Entertainment Stand Project

[Kurt Maurer]

Hi,

New here thought I'd post this here for some ideas. This is an entertainment stand I want to build out of 1" Maple Veneer Europly (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/#). The bottom section will have 1/4" smoked bronze bypass glass doors. I'm appreciative of all ideas, thoughts and criticisms. Any ideas are great but specifically I'd appreciate some comments on the below issues.

1. I first designed it with 12" top and bottom shelves. It was a little high and looked a little chunky to me. I've since reduced the height of the upper shelf to 8". It will house DVD, Blue ray and that sort of thing. On the bottom I wanted to store some books and magazines and need at least 11" in height. Total height of 26" works great since this will have a 47" TV sitting on top. How does the proportion look to you guys?

2. The feet are the same 1" material as the rest of the project. My concern is that there is 54" between those feet. I like them where they are. Do you think this will be OK? I could move them or add a third foot in the middle.

3. I've used simple rabbet and dado joints with no mechanical fasteners. Just glue. Do you think it will be enough? Trying to avoid dove tails and the like. I'm guessing this thing will weigh in at about 100 pounds when done.

Well those are my concerns at the moment. Thanks.

214771

[Peter J Lee]

I don't have nearly as much experience as others around here, but I don't think the feet will hold up with out a cross bar or some other design change. Is the back open? If so, I'd worry about racking.

[Kurt Maurer]

Thanks Peter. I really don't think it can rack. This is 1" thick material. Plus the center shelf will register the carcas even more. There is a two piece back of 1/4 material rabbetted into the back as well. I'm not concerned with the feet holding the unit. I can screw in from the shelf with some pretty hefty screws. I may even stop dado the feet into the carcas - probably overkill though. My only concern with the feet is the distance they are apart and with the unit sagging. Even though this is 1" material with a lot of tensile strength I am still asking it to span 54". I normally wouldn't like to see over 30" but I usually work with 3/4" material.

[Jamie Buxton]

If the cabinet back is fastened firmly to the bottom -- glue, or a bunch of staples -- the 54" span won't be a problem. The back will hold the rear edge of the bottom, no matter what load you put on it. That means the bottom is held straight along the back, and along the feet. The only part that can possibly sag is the front edge. It is being held by the other three edges, and it is 1" thick too.

[Kurt Maurer]

Thanks Jamie. Yeah I was going to staple the bottom half of the back and screw the top half. This way if somebody doesn't want the through holes that will be there for the componet plugs they can just replace the top half of the back. Right now the 1" Europly is a problem -- I mean getting it. Might have to re-group on this one.

[Jamie Buxton]

I'm not sure what you mean by Europly. Is that Baltic Birch by another name? That is, plywood whose interior laminates are hardwood, and all the same thickness? If you can't get 1" stuff, you can surely get 1/2" stuff, right? Laminate two layers together.

BTW you should fill out your profile, because some reader might know where you can get 1" Europly in your town.

[Kurt Maurer]

Jaime it is very similar to Baltic Birch but with much nicer veneer faces. It is manufactured by Columbia Forest Products. The only thing that comes close is a product called Applewood. This is all assuming that you want the exposed edge look. Yes, I could laminate some baltic birch then veneer the whole thing myself but what a pain. Link for you to check out the Europly.

http://columbiaforestproducts.com/Products/EuroplyPLUS

Thanks for the continued feedback.