Oil Finish Question

[James Combs]

I need a recommendation for a fast drying(hours or days not weeks) oil lookalike finish. Anyone have any suggestions. In my "BLO Question" (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176908-BLO-Question) thread I showed some birdhouses that I am turning for my Sister and she wants an "old" look and she indicated that meant a "flat" finish. Oil does a perfect job of this but generally takes too long. Looking for some ideas folks.

[Marty Eargle]

You can do a few coats of BLO in a day and let it dry for another day. It won't be fully cured, but it won't make a mess either.

Danish oil would probably be a good route, as it dries fairly quick. If you're needing to give something to someone relatively soon, just make them aware that the finish isn't fully cured but will in a few days. Something like an ornament would be easy to handle.

[Gary Max]

I would go with a Danish Oil applied on the lathe------apply at a low rpm them get a clean cloth and buff it out at a higher rpm.

[Bernie Weishapl]

JD when I use oil on my birdhouses I use antique oil or Lee Valley tung oil sealer. It just takes a coat maybe two. I let both dry 24 hrs between coats but the tung oil sealer says can be recoated in 8 hrs.

[Robert McGowen]

I use Danish Oil on all of my mesquite turnings. It dries quickly and will give a flat finish if you do not buff it.

[James Combs]

Thanks guys, gives me lots of options and I have some of everything that has been suggested. I will probably go through all of them before completing the 20 birdhouses. Today I tried satin WOP, letting 2 coats soak in good then wiping off any excess after the 2nd coat set for a few minutes. I will evaluate the results tomorrow but so far it looks like an oil finish but will be dry in just a few hours. I will let everyone in this thread know what I finally end up with.

[Curt Fuller]

Another consideration is the conditions that your applying the finish. I'm not sure what the weather is like this time of year in Mount Sterling, but here I would have problems with just about anything other than lacquer if I tried to finish it in my garage (30-40 degrees) or basement (55 degrees). I usually have to bring my stuff into the heated part of the house where the furnace keeps the temp at around 70-75 degrees and the humidity low. Under those conditions about any of the oils should work pretty well.

[James Combs]

Another consideration is the conditions that your applying the finish. I'm not sure what the weather is like this time of year in Mount Sterling, but here I would have problems with just about anything other than lacquer if I tried to finish it in my garage (30-40 degrees) or basement (55 degrees). I usually have to bring my stuff into the heated part of the house where the furnace keeps the temp at around 70-75 degrees and the humidity low. Under those conditions about any of the oils should work pretty well.

Curt, thanks for the comments. I have a well insulated shop but a very small(1500 watts) heater. It typically stays between 45 and 55 in the shop which is excellent to work in but I know what you mean about needing to warm things up for finishing but I figure if it won't work at 45-55 then I don't need it.;):rolleyes: