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View Full Version : How many cut out the bottoms?



Kevin Lucas
12-01-2011, 7:03 PM
Since it is the Christmas season and because I wanted to get the hang of hollow forms so I tackled ornaments. Flatter on the tops and more pointed towards the bottoms looked good to me. The problem is I have killed more than I saved ) I keep hollowing too far and cutting a big circle out of the tops. It is getting that curve towards the ornament top and chuck that gets me. The same for hollow vases too. How many of you have this problem and how long did it take to get the hang of when to stop before you go through?

Bill Wyko
12-01-2011, 7:11 PM
98% of turners have cut through the bottom. The other 2%.....lied.:D

Richard Jones
12-01-2011, 7:18 PM
98% of turners have cut through the bottom. The other 2%.....lied.:D

Bill,

I am quite shocked. You have that all wrong. Should be the other way around................ :D

R

Scott Hackler
12-01-2011, 7:18 PM
I have turned through bunches, but now I have gotten a "feel" for it and know when to get the calipers out and double check until exactly where I want it. I have been trying to get a few ornaments done (ball type bulbs). I can NOW hollow them to around 3/16" by feel and to about 1/8" with the calipers. Takes a while and a lot of practice. Don't get frustrated, just keep on turning. :)

Robert Newton
12-01-2011, 7:23 PM
Remember a student of mine that cut so deep the bottom was paper thin. I use a ruler and combo square to check depth.

Curt Fuller
12-01-2011, 7:38 PM
Kevin don't be afraid to stop and measure...often. And keep the hollowing tool moving. Hollowers that use the narrow cutters can dig a deep groove in a hurry. So if you can keep the tool moving and not use much pressure you can cut a little, stop, clear out the shavings, measure, and repeat until you're get the thickness you want. Sometimes just getting shavings built up inside a form can cause you to hang up and cut in one spot too long, until you cut through. Hollowing is just a time consuming process that works best if you don't try to rush it.

Russell Neyman
12-01-2011, 7:44 PM
A pilot hole drilled to the proper depth does wonders.

Faust M. Ruggiero
12-01-2011, 8:12 PM
Kevin,
I think you are referring to slicing out a section from the top of the hollow form thereby turning it into a bowl. Correct? If that is the case, I assume you are working through a fairly small hole and unable to get any sort of a gauge to accurately measure the thickness of the top from say, 1/2" aside the hole to the shoulder. If that is your problem, I have a solution. I made a set of mini calipers to check those measurements. I will gladly share how I made them. They are just bent wires but work great. If I misread your problem, sorry.
faust

Kevin Lucas
12-01-2011, 8:27 PM
Yep that's pretty much the end result little cup looking things. I guess i could put bottoms on them for mini goblets ) I'm probably going through a 3/8 hole with a home made straight hollowing bar. The bottom to center hollowing no problem. Curving back to the top and not cutting through gets me.

Thom Sturgill
12-01-2011, 8:58 PM
I assume that you are working with the bottom toward the headstock? most people are going to have trouble with that shoulder. One thing that helps is to 'thump' the globe to hear the response. That will give a quick check that will warn you when to start checking more carefully. Also try using a bent or angled hollower. If you made your own, make another one (or two) with the cutting tip set at an angle.

Curt Fuller
12-01-2011, 9:55 PM
Yep that's pretty much the end result little cup looking things. I guess i could put bottoms on them for mini goblets ) I'm probably going through a 3/8 hole with a home made straight hollowing bar. The bottom to center hollowing no problem. Curving back to the top and not cutting through gets me.
Kevin, a hollower made from a 1/4" allen wrench works really well on small ornament bodies like that. Here's a picture of one I use..
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Kevin Lucas
12-01-2011, 10:27 PM
Curt I saved a copy of that pic. The shorter end looks like it would work really well. I may modify one like that tomorrow. The one pictured doesn't cut very well as it is and tends to grab and twist. The straight one cuts great but a lot of swing needed. The ornaments and the "cup". The angels is a modification of last years bells. Cherry with holly wings. My wife says i missed some relatives so more are needed ) (hope the pics work)
214410214411214412

Scott Hackler
12-01-2011, 11:22 PM
Kevin, from you tool pic... I can tell you that the steel in that straight one is WAY too long. With steel of that dimension, the most you'll ever be able to stick out over the tool rest is about 5" without it starting to chatter something terrible. Also by shortening it up you will gain a lot more control over your actions while hollowing little things.

One tip for hollowing the inside opposite of the tool rest, measure the height of the bulb and reduce that measurement by 1/8". Next measure that distance from the tip of the hollower back and mark it with some tape. Now while hollowing it out you'll have a better idea where that tool is inside the bulb.

James Combs
12-02-2011, 12:22 AM
Kevin, one other consideration that will help is to add an additional bend(see the photo-shopped pic of your tool) to your hooked tool. The cutting tip should be in line with the center axis of the tool tang and handle. This will prevent the tool from twisting in your hand and help prevent catches.

I have one I made out of one of those "Z" shaped combo screwdrivers, you know, the ones that come with a small equipment's tool pack. It has a philips on one end at a ninety degree angle and a straight-blade screwdriver on the other end at an opposite ninety degree angle. I used the straight blade end by heating and straightening the Philips end, adding another opposing angle on the straight blade end and shaping/sharpening the straight-blade end. Shoved the Philips end in a handle and that was it. I don't have a pic of it but I will get one tomorrow and post it here. You will see that it looks very similar to what I show here. However, there is one difference. Most everyone makes these tools angled to the, lets call it the left, I angled my to the right. That allows me to hollow on the opposite side of the HF running the lathe in reverse. It gives me a much better view of what I am doing and for me gives me better control of the tool. Hope this has been of some help. You definitely need to add the additional angle.
214421

Oh and BTW I am one of the 98%.

Betty Fox
12-02-2011, 10:29 AM
Our house stays very warm with the funnels I make. I'm one of the warm 98%.

Baxter Smith
12-02-2011, 10:52 AM
Almost never....I bet I could count the number of times on just two hands. Maybe......