Green walnut rust update.

[Dan Forman]

I asked about how to prevent rust on the ways from green walnut shavings about a week ago, and thought I would post an update. The problem was that damp walnut appears to be incredibly corrosive, causing rut to start in about 20 or 30 minutes, in spite of the ways being waxed. I got a number of suggestions, and thought I would give any who are interested an update.

One suggestion that sounded interesting was Navy Brand Moisturol DR 50, which is no longer in production. The gal at the place that used to make us offered to send me a trial can of another product that is similar, said her father was a wood turner, and today would have been his 104th birthday. Thought it was interesting coincidence. I told her I would give it a try and report my findings here if it worked.

Another suggestion that sounded promising, but I couldn't find locally, was Fluid Film Rust Preventer in the 8 oz brush can. I just ordered a can of that, after determining that there were no local retailers, should have it by the end of the week.

The following suggestions I either had on hand, or could find locally, results as follows:

WD 40: Basically useless. Even sprayed on and left in pools, did nothing to prevent rust.

Johnsons Paste wax: No better against walnut than the other waxes I tried for rust.

Boeshield T9: No help. Sprayed on and let sit for an hour or so, then wiped off and applied wax. Maybe the wax altered it, so might try again, and not wax. To let it dry completely takes about a week, so that was out of the question.

Vasaline: Yuk, but this was the only thing that actually worked, no rust at all, but messy and grabby.

Will update again when new products arrive, until then, looks like it's Vaseline, or might try the T9 again and leave it rather than wipe it.

Dan

[John Keeton]

Dan, looks like in the end, you will have covered all the bases!! I appreciate your financial investment and efforts at sharing with us.

[Jamie Donaldson]

Wax is useless as a moisture barrier, and just about any coating applied to prevent rust will be removed during turning as you move the banjo and tailstock. I use both Boeshield and WD 40 with a gray ScotchBrite pad after turning, to eliminate the acids before they have a chance to corrode the bed ways.

[Dan Forman]

Jamie --- The problem that the rust was forming while I turned - by time I was ready to clean up, the rust had already formed. The Vaseline withstood the movement of banjo and tailstock, so there was no rust with it. I expect the Fluid Film to be equally effective, but slicker and easier to apply and clean up.

Dan

[David E Keller]

Interesting! I look forward to hearing your final conclusions... It's like consumer reports for woodturning rust prevention! I hope something other than vaseline turns out to be successful... I'm not sure I like the idea of coating the ways with vaseline.

[Baxter Smith]

I will be interested in hearing about the fluid film. Never thought of trying it. I have a can I picked up at a stihl dealer to use on a hedge trimmer. Keeps things running smooth and prevents a buildup of pitch.
I just use the scotchbrite pads and wd-40 as well after I am done. Between the corrosiveness of some woods and the spray water bottle I often liberally use, its nice to have a well used/less than pristine lathe.;):)

[Sid Matheny]

I also appreciate your efforts and willingness to share you findings.

Sid

[Jamie Donaldson]

You could emulate David Ellsworth, who states that rust is useful for reducing the tendancy for banjo and tailstock slippage, and sprays water on the bed of new lathes. Now that he's selling Robusts I wonder what he does?

[Curt Fuller]

Dan, I think I'd just give up on turning walnut. I can hook you up with a guy in Utah that will take it off your hands.

Seriously though, the green Gambel Oak around here does the same thing. I've though about covering the ways on my lathe with Saran Wrap. It wouldn't solve all of the problem but it would make a little less rust to scrub off.

[robert baccus]

On my last can of Navy DR 50, so i have been trying Corrosion X in a spray can. seems effective though i only tried one product. they list 4-5 variously priced industrial products. you might google them and take a look.-----------old forester

[Philip Duffy]

Dan, I use Eezox, a dry film lube that was invented by a guy from NASA. It is hard to find so Google it. But, it works better than anything else in my experience and has other uses, including penetrating oil applications. Phil

[Todd Tyler]

Hi All,
Here at work I use a product called Quality Industrial metal cleaner with silicone protection finish. it is distributed by Quality Products Co. 12399 Phillips Rd. Pandora, OH 45877. There web addy is www.qualityproductspandora.com (http://www.qualityproductspandora.com) . I have no affiliation with this company. It is designed as a metal polish and cleaner and will remove rust with just a small amount of the cleaner and your fingers. Heavier amounts can be removed with a green scotchbrite pad. This stuff can be used two ways, as a cleaner only where you apply, scrub, and wipe off, or as a protectant where after scrubbing you leave it to haze like car wax then buff off. I have used it on my lathe turning wet wood and purposely not cleaned up with no corrosion. Here at work we use it on production gaging components requiring a corrosion resistant protectant that is nearly immeasurable so as not to interfere with fits and clearances. Out of the many products I have gone through, this is by far the best I have found both in term of cost and function. I use it on my wood and metal working machinery at home. I hope someone else tries this stuff and backs up my findings and repotrs back here. This is a product that should be used by more of us.
Todd

[Don Orr]

I've been turning wet White Oak which starts the lathe rusting as I bring it in the door. I spray on a bunch of WD40 and spread it around with a paper towel which gets saturated. Turn away and brush and blow the chips off the lathe and wipe it down again and the rust comes right off. It's just surface rust not deep pitting. Start clean, end clean. DO NOT let the chips sit on anything iron or steel. A few years ago I had a White Oak chip land way behind me on my table saw. Found it a couple days later-the mark is still there after cleaning and polishing.

Thanks for all the other ideas as well.

[Dan Forman]

These last three sound interesting. Corrosion X is available locally, so will try that first. I would have reservations about using anything with silicone in the shop, as it is notorious for making finishing difficult.

Dan

[robert baccus]

Dan, you mentioned the lady at navy brand was kind enough to let you try a substitute product. would like to hear some feedback after you try it? thanks,-------------old forester